Golden Cap, Dorset

Date: 25-Jun-2008

Map: Landranger 193, OL 116

Weather: Mostly sunshine – it only took a couple of hours

 

A walk up the lane to Stonebarrow Hill, down to St Gabriels, then up to Golden Cap. Return via the coast path  and back up to Stonebarrow Hill: 5.6 miles – as measured with memory map.

This walk was more of a gentle stroll after the exertions on the SW coast path. So really there isn’t much of a story attached to it. I left the cottage we were renting and turned up Stonebarrow Lane. The coastal path between Charmouth and Stonebarrow is closed due to a large landslip and a diversion was in operation. It passed by where I was staying anyway so it didn’t make much difference, except I had to return via the lane I started from. The narrow lane was used infrequently for traffic and the steep sides were very overgrown. I saw a badger scuttling down the road the first night I was here, and I never realised that they can run so fast – mind you it was downhill.

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Looking down Stonebarrow Lane

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The first view of Golden Cap

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Well signposted by the NT

The National Trust own a bunch of land around Stonebarrow Hill, so the way ahead was in reasonable shape. I followed a gravelled track up the hill as far as it went then turned down towards St Gabriels at the sign post. The way followed an old track and I had occasional views across the countryside towards Charmouth and Lyme Regis. Golden Cap is the highest point on the Jurassic Coast and gets its name from its distinctive yellow sandstone summit, it positively glows in the sunlight. You can’t miss it – it’s higher and flatter whichever way you look at it. There were some brave souls launching themselves off on paraglider things, which didn’t look the best way of having a long active life, but the views would have been great. I saw a buzzard hovering high above the escarpment slope looking for his lunch, and later on I managed a half decent picture as it moved along the coast. The land use here is general cattle grazing and there were lots of fields enclosed by high hedges, some of which must have been the very old trackway down to St Gabriels.

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The old track way to St Gabriels

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Further around the bend

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Lovely uncut meadows full of wildlife

I passed by a large farm, with the old farmhouse sitting alongside the new, a lovely rural scene and very quiet here. Further down the lane I passed a rather mature gentleman who was looking a bit lost. So I put him on the right track, and when I was on top of Golden Cap looking down I saw him not much further on still wandering around a bit lost - but there are worse places to meander around.  When I reached St Gabriels there is only an old manor house here and the remains of the church, sitting down below Golden Cap. There has been a settlement here since saxon times but all that remains are a few buildings, and an old sheep wash to the right of the house.

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The manor house at St Gabriels

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The old church or what’s left of it..

From St Gabriels the path now climbed up towards Golden Cap – the highest point on the south coast at 188m, but it wasn’t too much exertion to the top. Initially the path is alongside the cliffs, and then passes through a couple of hedgerows as the ground rises. There was a gate halfway up the hill, with a well placed bench to take a breather. The path continues to the top up a series of zigzags to ease the gradient, with a section of rope handrail to help you on your way. Your reward comes at the top, with far reaching views to the east and west – Weymouth one way and Lyme Regis the next. I didn’t forget to look behind me and take in the inland vista as well.

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Inland to Chardown Hill & Hardown Hill

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Golden Cap beckons

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The view looking back along the coast path to Charmouth

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The rope handrail if you need it

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The view to the east from the top

After a brief rest I retraced the path down and along the coast, crossing many hedgerows and some small streams. There was birdlife a plenty and I got a reasonable shot of a redstart swaying  in the wind – probably wary of the buzzard who wasn’t very far away. It would have been nice to have been able to follow the path all the way to Charmouth, or I could have dropped down onto the beach if the tide was out. I tarried a while and watched the buzzard hunting – they drop pretty quickly when they want to.

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A redstart swaying in the breeze

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One of a few drops down into small valleys

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Easy walking along the grassy coastal path

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Up towards Stonebarrow Hill

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Looking back to Golden Cap

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The buzzard soaring high above me

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West Hay farm in the distance

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It wasn’t very steep up here

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A last look back to Golden Cap

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And back down the lane

After several more ups and downs I turned up towards Stonebarrow Hill and passed by West Hay Farm. Once back up to the top of the slopes I turned back down Stonebarrow Lane and returned to the cottage for lunch, a glass of cider and relaxing in the hot tub - my reward for a good mornings stroll. I did take my boots off before I got in though!

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Just a bit too close to the cliff for comfort – I think I’ll carry on walking if you don’t mind!!

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 …and have one of these….or two…cheers to walking

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