Date: 22-Jan-2008
Map: Landranger 98, OL 2
Weather: Overcast & dull, cold and dry –
no good for photos!
A
circular walk from Malham Village to Gordale Scar, up over
the escarpment to Malham Tarn and back via Malham Cove:
12 miles – as measured with a piece of gardening twine
I waited and waited
for some dry weather amid the January gloom. Finally a
glimpse of dry weather was seen on the forecast and come
rain or shine I set off for Malham on the edge of the
Yorkshire Dales. My trip from
Manchester
took around 1 ½ hours. The walk took 6 hours, but I didn’t
rush around today. The drive up to Malham was pleasant
enough but the last 10 miles are on minor roads, so it was a
little icy in places.
Malham Beck in full flow
There is a good car
park at the entrance to the village. It charges £3.20 for a
stay over 2 hours. I only had £2.40, and as it was mid
winter I chanced that it was too cold for a traffic warden.
Thankfully I was right. I couldn’t find anywhere open for
change. It will be a different story in summer time, when it
can become very busy at weekends. Once I was togged up
against the cold I set off South on the Pennine Way path, which was submerged
beneath Malham Beck in places – not surprising considering
the amount of the wet stuff that has been pouring down
recently. The paths are in good condition as there are a lot
of tourists walking around here when the weather improves.
Malham Village with
Malham Cove in the background
Gordale Scar was hidden from view and it keeps its
secrets until you walk up closer. As with Malham Beck
there was a lot of water flowing down Goredale Beck
(Both converge downstream to form the River Aire), which
gave me some anticipation of what was to come. In the summer
time there is a lot less water flowing here and the ground
is usually good. All the paths are well trodden and clear to
follow. There are some areas that are paved to prevent too
much wear and tear. Further along the riverside path you
enter Wedber Woods, which is a shady place in summer, with
the Beck babbling along below you. Today I could hear the
roar from further upstream! There are several fallen tree
trunks that have been filled with coins that have been
knocked or pushed in. Presumably to ward off the evil
fairies of Janet’s Foss or provide change for the car park?
The banks and rocks were very mossy due to the wet
winter we have had, but even in summer it is quite humid
walking through here. I could hear the roar of the waterfall
before I rounded the bend to Janet’s Foss, and sure enough
the water was boiling below the tremendous flow of water. I
wondered what High Force would be like today.
Janet’s Foss – Fairies behind?
Foss is the old Scandinavian word for a waterfall or
force. Legend has it that Janet was Queen of the local
fairies, and lived in a cave behind the waterfall. In summer
you can see the Tuffa screen that reaches the plunge pool
below. Tuffa is a Calcareous deposit from water that has
dissolved Calcium Carbonates from the Limestone – a bit like
the deposits in the kettle in hard water areas. You will see
more of it when in Goredale Scar. The very humid atmosphere
around the fall favours mosses and ferns, but nice and cool
in the summer to dip your toes. Be careful of the rocks,
they can be slippery when wet – that applies to all of the
Limestone rocks that you walk on this ramble. Once past the
fall you emerge out onto a small road which leads up towards
Goredale Scar. Pass by Goredale Bridge
then start to appreciate the deep cut Limestone Gorge. As
you walk towards the gorge you will start to hear the roar
of the falls (
maybe not in summer time), and I knew today that I would NOT
be climbing them. I passed a Dipper on the way bobbing up
and down in the stream – dipping his head in the water
looking for lunch.
Goredale Scar beckons
As you round the corner of the Scar the falls come
into view. If you follow the falls up you will see a
circular hole with a full flow of water through. You can
climb up this way when the flow of water is not torrential,
by climbing carefully up the central knob of Tuffa. You must
take care not to damage the falls or yourself, and the way
ahead is quite steep. The first part is the worst, but if
you take your time the handholds are good, but beware
slippery rocks. The water today was as if from the Ice Age –
very, very cold. Survival in this would be not too long!
This deep cut valley was formed from glacial meltwater from
the last few Ice Ages. If you look closely you will see some
well worn water features higher up the cliffs. There is a
sign at the road that describes the Gordale Scar
thus
”…every object
conspires to produce one of the grandest spectacles in
nature. The rocks dart their bold and rugged fronts to the
heavens, and impending fearfully over the head of the
spectator, seem to threaten his immediate destruction.”
Edward Dayes 1805.
Fancy
words for saying the cliffs are high! Anyway, no madness
from me so I retraced my steps back to the bridge and
crossed the torrent to walk on the path towards Malham.
Your
way up is by the Tuffa in the middle of the picture – but
not when it’s like this
Walk up
a gentle incline – notice the signs of old field systems and
settlements, ridge and furrows. When you get to the first
stile go through and immediately turn north to face the
steep slope West of Gordale Scar. There is a gap in the
dry-stone wall and you can see a path leading up the slope
to the top of New Close Knotts. This is open access land and
although there isn’t a path marked on the map you are free
to use it. This was a stiff walk up the scarp slope, but if
you pause for breath and enjoy the vista, you will notice
how much of the old field systems are on show. You can pick
out the old field boundaries that predate the newer
dry-stone walls. As
you can see them so well defined they must have been used
for many generations. The route up was quite slippery in
places but this was due to the frosty ground. Again this
path has been well trodden and in places there are a series
of steps that makes the going easier. After a bit of huff
and puff, your heart will be beating a good deal faster but
the views from the top are worth it. Here you can look down
on Gordale Scar and see the deep cut of the gorge. Beware of
the edge as it is a long drop to the valley below and there
is no protection.
Looking South – old field systems below. Pendle Hill in the
distance
Steep
ahead until the rocks at the top
You are now at the Limestone pavement levels. Look
ahead to easy paths and the bleakness of this landscape. Be
aware that there are lots of wabbit holes dotted around so
be careful where you plonk your feet.
Looking down into Gordale Scar
There was a dusting of snow on the higher ground,
blown in by a North wind the day before. It gave a real
wintry feel and the temperature was only 2 or 3 degrees.
Further along the path, I passed the path that comes up from
Gordale Scar if you had climbed up the falls
The
path up from the waterfalls
I walked along the tops looking down in to the deep
valley formed from glacial meltwater, only a trickle of
water down there in the summer time. There wasn’t much
vegetation apart from close cropped grass along the paths,
but if you inspect the Limestone pavement areas you would be
surprised what grows down some of the Clints and Grykes
(cracks between the pieces of pavement – some very big
cracks!) I did pass a lonely tree that was leaning into the
prevailing winds. If you look closely below its canopy you
can see small water washed channels in the Limestone that
form over many years from the drip drip of raindrops from
the trees canopy.
Looking North up Gordale Scar
Lonely tree hanging on
The scenery here is
bleak in winter time, not much wildlife around, and the
dusting of snow making it feel colder than it was. In summer
time you will be squinting in bright sunlight from the glare
off the Limestone – wear sunglasses and take plenty to
drink.. I continued north towards Great Close Scar, a
landmark to the East of Malham Tarn, on an easy track that
stretches out for a mile or two. Passing the
Tarn to the East, notice the boggy ground called
the Great Close Mire. The name tells you all you need to
know. Today there was a plethora of small rivulets winding
their way down to Gordale Scar feeding the main Beck.
It’s
bogging……..
Looking towards Parson Pulpit from near Middle House Farm
I followed the track up to Middle House Farm and then
turned North-West at the highest part of this walk. It was
pretty cold at this point so I didn’t hang around. I made
good progress across the snowy landscape, mainly due to the
frozen ground. It would have been boggy otherwise. I just
skirted around the frozen puddles and Limestone bluffs along
an easy to follow path. I wound down through a dry valley
and stopped for some lunch. A nice cup of warming soup and a
Turkey
roll, followed by a PIE – well us northern boys love pies,
and I did have one when I went to watch
Manchester
City last week.
Brrrrrrr…lots of Limestone pavement
The Limestone
pavements gave a nice sheltered spot for lunch and I had a
nice warm seat, but I didn’t stop for long as the cold soon
seeps into your bones on a day like this. I had a good view
towards the snowy tops of Fountain Fells, where the Pennine Way winds up and over. I wouldn’t
like to be doing that in the winter. Once I felt refreshed I
set off again and came to a fenced boundary (keeps the cows
in the other side). I had to walk up from the valley to find
a way over without damaging the wall or the fence. I made my
way down the dry valley onto Cowside
and sure enough there were lots of a Hardy breed
grazing away on the hillside – cows and bulls. I dropped
lower down the slope below them and then towards the South
West contoured around the hill to meet up with the Pennine Way, which
was signposted towards Malham Tarn.
The Pennine Way. Note
the gate on the stile…must be some smart sheep around..
Once again well trodden paths led down to the Tarn,
and I followed a track that led around North side of the Tarn. I passed a bird hide from where you can watch a
flotilla of Coots bobbing around. Further on is the Malham
Tarn Field Centre, presumably where hoards of Schoolchildren
carry out their Geography trips. A fine place to study.
There are some round dry-stone walls protecting both young
and old trees. It reminded me of some of the dry-stone
walling seen in the Yorkshire Sculpture Park
built by Andy Goldsworthy and his students. Last time I went
the walls of the exhibition centre were sprayed with Cow
S!^t. It smelt bad enough in March, what it smelt like in
summer I couldn’t begin to imagine (it’s near Wakefield). I continued
around the Tarn eventually
reaching the outfall that spilled out into a shallow valley
below.
Round
and around…
There was a good view back across to Tarn Moss, a
boggy area fed from Fountain Fells. It is a protected Nature
Reserve. But of all the rubbish photos taken today I thought
this one had some merit.
Tarn
Moss in the foreground, Fountain Fells out the back.
At the base of all the Limestone scarps I passed
today there were lots of water seepages that you wouldn’t
see in the summer (unless it’s like 2007) making for boggy
ground, thankfully away from the path. Continuing south you
eventually reach the water sink, where the outlet from the
Tarn disappears into what is essentially a big
plug hole. Amazing to think that you won’t see this water
again until you’re at the bottom of Malham Cove
All
of this goes into this……..
Beyond this sink the
valley is dry, and the path becomes increasingly narrow and
stony as it meanders down around Comb Hill. It arrives at
the deep cut of Ing Scar, and you descend by a series of
Limestone steps, no doubt slippery in the rain. But so are
stockbrokers and car dealers, so take care.
Ing
Scar. The steps down are to the right.
I made my way down towards Malham Cove, sheltered
away from the wind, very peaceful. There were signs of old
settlements again. Eventually you arrive at the spectacular
Limestone pavements above Malham Cove. It is a big drop to
the cove below and there is no fence to keep you safe, so
keep your eyes open. You have wide ranging views to the
South, but I didn’t as the light was poor. But you get a
good view of the old field systems and old settlement
patterns. The ridge and furrows looking like the ribs of a
starving animal of some sort…probably. The Limestone
pavement is widespread here and apparently without
vegetation. But when you are on it you will notice a
surprising variety growing amongst the
Grykes. Clints are the blocks of limestone that
constitute the paving, their area and shape is directly
dependant upon the frequency and pattern of grykes. Grykes
are the fissures that isolate the individual clints.
Geography lesson over. Needless to say there are some very
interesting shapes that have formed over the years by
groundwater, before the soil had been scoured clean away by
retreating glaciers last week- it's been cold - I mean the last ice age.
Malham Cove from the pavement
Clints and Grykes
The Victorians were partial to nicking bits of
Limestone pavement to build their rockeries and follies. You
can still see these around towns and cities if you look
carefully. Some of the blocks gently rock as you walk over
them. Again, be careful as the cracks can be very deep in
places and could easily swallow whole animals or small
children…don’t be tempted
Looking South towards Malham below
You cross the pavement to your right side (West) and
a steep flight of Limestone steps will take you down to the
cove below. The path from here will take you back to Malham,
look back to the cove and you can see the water seeping
below the cove.
Malham Cove
In
summertime you may see some climbers dotted around the
cliffs, usually to the right side. The path into Malham
Village
is very well maintained as this is the tourist track and
becomes heavily populated at weekends. The old settlements
and field systems are well defined here, and are thought to
date back as far as the 7th Century, where Old
MacDonald lived. EIEIO.
You
can’t miss the old fields here
Carry on and reach the main village road which brings
you down to
Malham
Village. None of the shops
were open, but the Pub was! I reached the car park and
thankfully there wasn’t a wheel clamp in site. Just my car
and two others at the local riding school. Now I know that
it has been wet this winter, but I thought the precautions
taken at the stables were a little excessive……
Walking ……..it’s Brilliant
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