Stoke by Nayland, Constable Country
Date: 30-Oct-2012
Map: Landranger 155
Weather: Dull, with a little winter sunshine later. Very cold
From Stoke by Nayland Lodges, across the golf course and fields to the B1068 road. Along the road to a track leading past Peyton Hall. Through the fields to the road near Stoke Tye. Along the lane and north across Homey Bridge. Along the road to Polstead down to Bells Corner. Up over the hill and across fields that will lead down to Scotland Street. Up the lane to Stoke by Nayland. Cross more fields towards Poplar Farm. Up a bridleway to Thomsons Farm, and return to the lodges via Cock Street : 8 miles as plotted on Memory Map.
The alarm went off early and echoed around the massive bedroom at the lodge….’do you want a cup of tea…tea…tea…’.
‘Yes,… please….please…please…’
A breakfast tray was delivered to the lodge we were staying at which would have fed the 5,000. It certainly stoked me up for the day with homemade raspberry jam on toast, and enough cheese and ham for a couple of sandwiches for todays walk around. It was great looking out over the golf course from the balcony but a tad chilly, and I would have liked a stroll around one of the championship courses. The forecast was about right with low grey cloud and a distinct lack of sunshine, but at least it was dry and we had a mud treatment to look forward to later in the day – as if there wasn’t enough of the stuff laying around anyway.
I studied the maps last night and tried
to come up with a round walk from the lodge that might have
a little interest on the way. Unfortunately I couldn’t avoid
a little road walk here and there, but at least it wasn’t
along a main road, and there are field boundaries to hop
onto here and there. The lowland landscape around the Essex
/ Suffolk border are rolling fields,
hedgerows, and bridleways made famous worldwide by artists,
is still as recognisable today as it was when painted by
Constable and Gainsborough, except for the size of the trees
obviously – although there are lots of mature specimens of
some age. My mindset today was to focus on my surrounds as
there are no wide open panoramic vistas that I am so used to
seeing up in the Lake District, rather a gentle pastoral
scene laid out before me.
Geologically the area comprises Eocene (relatively young in
geological time) and glacial deposits
overlaying Cretaceous chalk. London Clay and sands are sands
are seen on the valley hillside as the rivers erode and
meander through the deposits. The juxtaposition of these
formations and where they occur basically determines what
species thrive, which habitats you see, and how the land is
farmed. It obviously suits fruit production very well.
The walk would be very different over the changing seasons, with
every component changing as the year rolls along.
Picturesque villages transformed with summer colour, rolling
farmland golden with heavy crops – ideal soil and climate
here. River meadows alive with wild flowers, ancient
woodlands casting dappled sunlight over the tracks and
paths, and an ever changing population of local wildlife that
ebbs and flows with the growing seasons. I can well imagine
the buzz from the fruit groves as the trees and bushes come
into flower and the drunken flight path of insects that have
drunk their fill from fallen fruit. It must be idyllic in
summertime, but today it’s winter, dull but not without
interest. The area of outstanding natural beauty (AONB)
designated around Dedham has looked to protect the habitats
and species of within the area including- native black
poplar, otter, water vole, dormouse, stag beetle, white
clawed crayfish, skylark, barn owl and great crested newt.
So there is plenty to look out for and stop and stare as the
walk progresses.
We set out from the lodges and onto Plough Lane that serves several
farms and fruit acres, and walked along passing the early
dog walkers and our return point later on in the day. Nice
and crisp despite the grey skies and we were soon cutting
north across the golf course to reach a footpath between the
upper and middle lakes of the valley running down through
the course. Care would have to be taken when there are
plenty of golfers out and about, although the local club
knows all about the footpath across the course. Over a stile
and it was out into the fields where the traffic noise from
the Colchester road intrudes a little. The winter crops were
thin on the ground, as we continued north heading to the
right of some farm buildings and out onto another small lane
– Harrow Street. The trees on the field boundaries were
briefly lit with a watery sunlight and the remaining leaves
glowed golden above the bright green of the kale or cabbage
– I didn’t taste it to find out. I was pleasantly surprised
that the earth beneath our feet didn’t clump up, so it must
be quite sandy soil here, heavily laden with flints – a
handy source of building material that can be seen in some
of the buildings on the way. The walk across the fields took
us to the busiest of roads that we walked on, which runs to
the lovely village of Stoke by Nayland.
Opposite the exit of the field is the famous Copella brand
processing plant, surrounded by vast acreage of fruit trees
and bushes. They all looked a little sorry for themselves,
but some still clung to their leaves and had the odd apple
or two still refusing to drop. We had some Copella apple
juice in our breakfast hamper – no preservatives and a very
different taste from the usual fruit juices served up to
start the day – very refreshing. It wasn’t too far down the
road that we had to travel, but we made sure that we stood
out of the way of any traffic approaching, and if it got
really busy we could have hopped into the field on our right
as a refuge. Walking east we soon came across a farm track
to the north that took us away from the traffic along a
holly lined lane, freshly gravelled for local access to
whatever works were going on along here. The lane runs for
a couple of miles, passing sandy banks riddled with
rabbit warrens, with many ‘Peter Rabbits’ hopping ahead of
us before darting off into the fields. There was an
occasional
background noise of gunshot, and I wasn’t sure if this was
for the rabbits, pheasants, pigeons or crows – thankfully it
wasn’t for us even though I wasn’t sure if we could legally
walk up this lane or not (see later). There weren’t any
‘Private’ signs along where we walked and it passes at the
back of the farm buildings, so our presence went largely
unnoticed - except for a group of very protective cows, and
their very curious calves.
Every year in the UK there are people injured when they come into
contact with cattle that have their young close by. As a
walker who has passed through many a herd, I find that the
best plan is to try and walk around them if possible, and
this is what we did by way of a couple of gates into and out
of an adjacent field. If I’m in the same field as them, then
waving my walking stick and shouting at them usually works.
The accidents usually involve walkers with dogs, and my
advice is to let the dog fend for itself. The cattle will be
chasing after the dog while you make your way through the
field, to be joined the other side of a gate or fence by
your faithful friend. Today they were a little more
boisterous as there was a pen full of young bullocks
galloping up and down, which only served to make them a
little more skittish. When I tried to take a video of them
chasing us, they wouldn’t oblige, just stood there looking.
Excitement over, we passed by a jumble of old farm buildings, some
of which must be several hundred years old judging by their
brickwork, with tree roots growing around a patchwork of
brick, concrete and flint, and ivy growing thick over mossy
corrugated iron roofs. I caught a glimpse of the old Peyton
Hall Farm. Behind the farmyard, but didn’t stand and stare.
A little further down the hill we reach a kissing gate that
took us out onto green fields alongside the River Box
running east towards the direction of Polstead village. Here
there is a sign on a post stating ‘RUPP ends here. Road
continues as a public footpath only’ (i.e no vehicles),
which answered my question on the legality of walking up the
lane from the main road. Luckily for us the path was open as
recent work on the electricity pylons had been completed.
This was the most jarring view of the day – a double line of
pylons that run from west to east across the fields. We were
lucky in the fact that most of the cattle were higher up the
hillside, more interested in the grass than a couple of
walkers. The stream alongside the field would undoubtedly
yield a glimpse or two of wildlife later on in the year and
who knows what could be seen here. There were plenty of
songbirds flitting in and out of the field boundaries and
trees, and as we got further along the sun started to shine
and the day took on a different complexion, warming us a
little as we strode up a gentle incline. There were a few
stiles to pass through and over but the path was well
trodden and with the stream running alongside it would be
hard to get misplaced.
After a mile of green fields we passed into a small wood with three
wooden benches set in amongst the branches, and a sign
declaring that the farm was being managed under the
‘Environmentally Sensitive Areas’ scheme – good to know that
the farming community are making the effort to preserve
these areas and they are not disappearing to massive fields
with hedgerow boundaries stripped away. A nice spot to sit
and listen to birdsong, but not today as it was still nippy.
A short distance on and we were out onto a muddy lane just
beyond the small hamlet of Stoke Tye. No traffic passed us
as we picked our way along the cleanest line of the lane,
which was adorned with a central trail of mud and leaves –
always nice to see as you know that traffic is limited. The
lane gently curved ahead and walking in sunlight and quiet
was a real pleasure, with plenty of birdlife overhead and in
the hedgerows, and despite the wet it wasn’t really bad
enough to interrupt a good stride along. The next turn to
the north was marked by a ‘Dead End’ sign with a width
restriction of 6ft3in – this is to deter the ‘Chelsea
Tractor’ brigade taking their off-roaders up this narrow
lane, through the ford by the road. We walked north once
more, steadily up an old lane, crossing the River Box at a
ford by a wooden walkway. It looked a little deep to cross
over here in a 4x4 as the river was running quite high after
the wet winter we have experienced this year. A steady plod
up the hillside led us along the lane with many fine old oak
trees growing along the verge. Flanked by fields of stubble,
and lit by a weak winter sun, the old lane was a delight to
walk up, with a great old oak stump in the hedgerow hollowed
out by time but still alive - a child’s delight to take
refuge and hide from unsuspecting passers-by. White plastic
feed bags hanging on posts stand guard over crops long gone
– as faithful as an old style scarecrow. The new style
scarecrows are modelled on raptors, hovering at the end of a
windblown streamer – they must work to scare away the crows.
The ivy here grows vigorously around and through many trees,
giving a luxuriant green crown and choking the life out of
its host – no symbiotic relationship for this plant. At the
top of the bridle path my route took us out onto another
lane leading us down to the delightful church at Polstead,
the halfway point today and a wonderful stop for lunch.
Again we had to be aware of the local traffic but most of it
passed by at a leisurely pace, and this time there is refuge
on the field to the left. As we walked along the road there
were plenty of heavily laden old trees suffering from a
covering of ivy, and across the vale into the sunlight we
got a good view of a distant Stoke by Nayland church sat
high up on a ridge, prominent above the surrounding
countryside - I presume that’s why it was located there.
Approaching the village of Polstead we turned up a new driveway
that led us up to the church, and also serves the Georgian
built Polstead Hall. The church is situated at the bottom of
Polstead Hill, close to the Polstead Pond, and dates from
the 12th century. Apparently it contains some of the earliest
bricks made in England allegedly, but I didn’t know this at
the time of our visit, although I did notice the fabric of
the building made up of flint, brick and stone. The 14th
century tower is interesting as it has slats of wood woven
like a basket set into the bell tower window frames. Inside
the church was freshly painted and bright in the midday sun,
with a couple of remnants of the old painted walls still
visible. The benches outside were very thoughtfully placed
in the sunshine facing south, and this is where we took a
leisurely lunch break to enjoy our ham and cheese
sandwiches, washed down with Copella apple juice – nice.
There is also a toilet block set in a neat wooden building
on the grounds, which is always handy, especially at the
half way point. Just as we were leaving the local church
warden appeared, probably to check up on us, and we had a
nice chat about the church and the area in general.
Suitably satiated we set off down the road passing the village pond
and heading for the footpath at the bottom of the hill.
Reaching a corner of the road we hopped over a stile and had
a modest climb up ??hill, with views back across to Polstead
Church sitting on the high ground – it’s a shame about the
electricity pylons though, as they are intrusive on the eye.
Up on top of the hill there is a nicely placed wooden bench
and a few different paths to choose from, but we headed
across to the north, passing horsy fields to pick up a path
down towards Scotland Street. Stoke by Nayland church was
now in view across the valley sitting on a ridge and the
path down was gentle, passing by much evidence of coppicing,
and some lovely cherry tree bark – very tactile.
Surprisingly the path wasn’t too muddy and soon enough we
were down at Scotland Street, a small hamlet about a mile
away from the medieval village of Stoke by Nayland. There
wasn’t an option to walk across the fields here and we
strolled up the quiet lane, crossing the River Box, passing
old buildings, with one receiving a new thatched roof. It
looked a little shaggy at the moment, but it was interesting
watching the work in progress. An old hand pump features in
another garden a little further along. The lane brought us
out into the pretty village of Stoke by Nayland, and
directly across from us was the Angel Inn, which drew us in
through the doors into welcoming warmth. We sat and had a
small break with a cuppa, and they didn’t mind that we were
clothed in hiking gear – I like that in an Inn – very
friendly service as well.
Stoke by Nayland stands on a ridge overlooking the Stour and Box
valleys, and the church dominates the village. St Mary's
Church was rebuilt in the fifteenth century, renovated in
1865, and is on the site of a 10th Century Ministry. A Saxon
Monastery was founded here during the time of King Edmund by
Earl Alfgar, who died in 948. John Constable also included
the church in a sketch of 1813. There are plenty of
interesting buildings around the village, and you can buy a
small pamphlet for 50p from the church that details the
history of the area. Immediately across the road from the
church is a fine timber framed building dating from the 15th
century. Beautifully silvered beams form this old hall that
was used as a workhouse from 1619 to 1834. Now it’s split
into three dwellings and has a magnificent chimney stack
standing proud of the roof – I bet the inside is interesting
to look at. We crossed the road from the church and walked
by the side of the building, along an old garden wall and
out into open pasture. A lovely carved sign pointed the way
to Rowley Wood which is beyond the lodges, so I knew we were
on the right track. As we walked towards the west the
settling sun was now casting a lovely afternoon golden hue
to the trees and bushes, and here you can really appreciate
the relaxed rolling hills and shallow valleys, typical of
the area. Behind us the church at Stoke by Nayland
positively gleamed above deep green fields, as we gently
dropped down a farm track towards another small lane at
Poplars Farmhouse. We passed by a B&B situated on the
junction of two lanes, another old building with some very
odd windows in – medieval indeed, apart from the freshly
painted render – probably not old at all, but it sits well
in the landscape. A short distance along the road and we
soon branched off uphill this time along another bridleway,
which would take us all the way to Cock Street close to the
lodges. Late afternoon sun peeped through hedgerows, dense
with growth in places, and soft underfoot with a thick
carpet of leaves. The route took us along by the side of one
of the golf courses, and knowing how wayward some amateur
golfers are (self-included), I began to look for nests of
golf balls. I found one or two taking refuge in the thick
undergrowth, and another lying on the path ahead of us. We
met a delightful local who stopped for a chat, and he
presented me with a couple more for my collection – lovely,
friendly open people down here. It was a little muddy
underfoot in places, but nothing that couldn’t be overcome
and we soon found ourselves out on Cock Street by the
buildings at Thomsons Farm.
From here it was only a short walk back to the lodge along the lane
beside the fruit farms, lines of trees and bushes past their
sell by date for the year. We hear chattering as we move
towards the end and see a the rapid pruning of the fruit
trees taking place – no other way to do it with so many to
trim back- It’s chill as well, steamy breath on the evening
as the sun sets on a lovely easy day out.
Back at the lodge there was just time for a small glass of wine
before moving across to the spa and a ‘Rassoul’ mud therapy
to round off the day. Basically you smear different mud
over different body parts, and then relax in a heated suite
that fills with herbal steam. Then after a little while
exfoliating and sweating the session ends with a tropical
shower where you wash all the mud off – a bit like being
caught in a deluge system if the fire alarm goes off! I felt
good after it though.
A very interesting day for me and an introduction to the Suffolk /
Essex border – Constable Country indeed. This round walk was
about 8 miles, but could be shortened to around 5 miles by
starting from Polstead and walking the route back to the
lodge.
the old water tower at the lodge complex - the starting point
along the lane with the golf course on the right
down to the path between the lakes
fields of green and golden trees
across the lane and more field walking to the Copella road
right along here or use the adjacent field boundary
apple trees at the Copella Farm acreage
across the road and up this lane
some colour still around at this time of year
plenty of rabbit warrens in the banks
high noon at the old hall farm
a good variety of old buildings with a glimpse of the hall in the background
interesting building technique developed here - but it's still standing
some blue sky at last as we walk down to the kissing gate before a right
turn across the fields
through here and along by the River Box
lots of green fields to cross
still a grey day behind us
a sign of the times
some small benches to sit and listen to the sound of the woods
the suns out again over golden stubble
out onto the lane just beyond Stoke Tye hamlet
it wasn't too grubby down here
we turned left here and crossed the ford at Homey Bridge
the wooden bridge on the left
as the River Box looked a little deep
the bridleway is flanked by large fields on either side
with some marvellous mature specimens along the way
I wonder how long this will stand - it's still alive
out onto the lane down to Polstead
Polstead Church
The toilet block on the left
old plaster decoration and an interesting font
the interior of Polstead Church
looking across the valley to the hill we will ascend
the flint walls add character to the buildings, with the odd bit of brick thrown in
the large village pond
Bells Corner below Polstead
over the styal and up the hill - not too taxing a climb
we veer off to the left a little at the top
looking back over the valley to Polstead Church, prominent on it's knoll
now across horse paddocks on a well trodden path
works at Frogs Hall
views across the Box valley to Stoke by Nayland church
some beautiful beech trees as we walked down the hillside towards Scotland Hall
easy walking on a soft bed of leaves
some evidence of old coppicing
passing by Scotland Hall
more water as we get down to the valley floor
out onto Scotland Street, with some interesting buildings around
Scotland Place where the Stour Valley Path runs through
up the lane towards Stoke by Nayland
an old water hand pump - wonder of it still works?
new thatch - cold work at this time of year
looking a little shaggy and waiting for a trim
the main street through Stoke by Nayland - plenty of interest buildings in the village
St Marys Church in Stoke by Nayland with the old workhouse behind
a wonderful mix of brick and flint
and lovely weathered, carved doors to the main entrance
the tower is quite tall - the interior view
similar in style to the Polstead Church
the old workhouse opposite the church,the path goes down the side by the pink building
a great chimney on the workhouse
the signpost pointing the way
gentle rolling countryside lit up in wintry sunshine
an easy track to follow down to Poplar Farm
looking back, the church dominates the view for a little while
off the rack and along the lane past Poplar Farm
a nice B and B
along the lane to the next bridleway
up the bridleway alongside the golf course - collecting balls is optional
a little muddy in places, but generally ok
the track comes out at Beachams Farm onto Cock Street
the sun sinking behind the fruit trees, and nearly back to the Lodge
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