Bessyboot on Rosthwaite Fell

Date: 24-Nov-2010

Map: Landranger 90

Weather: Clear, cloudy, with occasional sunshine. Dry but chilly

 

From Rosthwaite up the valley to Brund Fell, then down and across to Great Crag. Steeply down to Langstrath and steeply up the other side to Bessyboot. Steeply down once more to the valley and return to Rosthwaite along the beck : 9.3 miles as measured on Satmap GPS

I stayed up in Rosthwaite the night before and it was nice avoid the 2 hour drive up from Manchester and have a leisurely breakfast. The forecast the previous day was good, but when I went outside to sort some kit it was a bit misty, with the distinct smell of wood burning on the air. Disappointing but then again the clouds always give a good contrast against the fells and blue skies when the sun comes out. I was feeling a bit stiff legged after yesterdays walk up to Great End, but consoled myself with thinking I had less ascent than yesterday - wrong yet again. I walked with Cogstar and Dibble from the walking forum, and bang on 9am Dibble came screeching to a halt, worried that she was holding us up. She tore off up the start of the walk uphill leaving Paul and I in her wake - she did calm down after a while though. The first Wainwright of the day was Brund Fell, the highest point on Grange Fell which includes Kings How - a better viewpoint apparently - I'll have to return to find out that one. The path took us steadily up a valley from Rosthwaite and we could have walked all the way up to the hause and turned left up to the top. But there was a good path that turns off the main path , crosses the beck, and drops downhill for a stretch around the small pine woodland - much to the annoyance of some - questioning my route finding skills, as if. We reached a large ladder stile in the wall which was ok for us but not so good for the 2 collies, but Dibble managed to drag them up and over. Then it was a steep huffing and puffing uphill towards the summit of Brund Fell. The view back down to Rosthwaite and beyond was superb and as we got to the summit we had a grand vista once more.

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 looking down to the start at Rosthwaite - Great Gable up to the right

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 nearly up to the summit of Brund Fell - Great How to the left

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 the last bit up to the summit

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 the view into the sun - spot the Pike of Stickle

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 the Helvellyn range in cloud beyond High Tove

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looking over to Cat Bells with Derwent Water down to the right 

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 the hause between Brund Fell and Great Crag, or Rosthwaite and Watendlath

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 blue skies and sunshine on the way to Great Crag

Down below us in the valley was the shapely Castle Crag sitting above the frosted fields of Borrowdale - it's a favourite corner of the Lake District for me. Into the sun lay the bigger hills shielded by the clouds, but we had a good view over to the Cat Bells ridge with High Spy and Dale Head beyond - sometimes it's hard to recognise these hills from a different aspect. High Tove, High Seat and co were on the other side of the valley. This walk completed the Central Fells for me and I'm getting closer to the end of my ticklist. It was chilly on top and we adjusted our garb before moving off this fine summit. We made our way down a boggy path, which thankfully remained partly frozen and saved our boots for later. On a warmer day it would have been a veritable bog trot. We were soon down at the hause between Watendlath and Rosthwaite at Puddingstone Bank and on the path we had picked out from the summit of Brund Fell. The way ahead was fairly obvious and obviously boggy, so we tried to tippy toe across which is of course a complete waste of time - if it's boggy you'll sink. But we managed to keep dry feet as the ground firmed up in the lee of the hill and the path up to Great Crag steepened. This was another finely chosen Wainwright with superb views and it is relatively easy to get too. Your reward for the climb up here are the 360deg views - the sun was shining and the only downside of the day was coming soon - the drop down to the valley before ascending Bessyboot.

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 the view over to Bleaberry Fell

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 looking down on Seathwaite from Great Crag

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 Bessyboot across the valley. Langstrath up to the left

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Eagle Crag with Langstrath lit up in a shaft of sunlight 

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 walls and some falls off Great Crag

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 Honister Pass is central to the picture, Bessyboot to the left

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 Eagle Crag ahead - see where the sheep have been

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whatever they are waiting for they don't look very happy 

To get over to Rosthwaite Fell (Bessyboot as chosen by Wainwright) we had to lose all the height we had gained and then ascend up a very steep, seemingly impossible route. The drop down to Stonethwaite off Great Crag was OK though, even though it was steep, it was on the sunny side of the valley and the footing was good - but torture for the knees. We were soon down to the valley where we had to walk back to Stonethwaite to cross over the beck, before turning back towards the south west. There was still some doubt about my route planning but I knew we would be ok. We walked past frosty fields with several green patches dotted around. - these were where the sheep had been resting. They weren't resting when we passed though as they were already penned in for the tups! Over the bridge and past the cottages and The Langstrath Inn, where the food is meant to be excellent, but I've yet to sample it. I wasn't sure where the footpath started to cut up the hillside to Bessyboot, but when we reached a convenient campsite toilet block, gates led us across the lane to the start of a very steep ascent up through the trees. The path was very well laid, a long staircase up, with me at the back as usual plodding steadily upwards. We paused often to gaze back down to the valley and north to Skiddaw, which was wearing it's very own weather system. I knew it would be worth it when we got to the top as steep sided hills always give good views down over the valleys. As we climbed above the treeline Paul shouted down 'I feel like a Hobbit' - I only heard 'I feel like a --it' - not very polite in company I thought. As we got higher the path dipped down beside some falls towards the top of the steep part, which must be wonderful in summer when the sun is shining down. We  came out onto higher ground and the gradient eased off as the path wound around towards the summit of Bessyboot. Wainwright obviously chose this crag rather than the higher Rosthwaite Fell for the views it affords. It was fantastic looking back across the valleys and north up Borrowdale,east to a snowy looking Helvellyn and west up to the Honister Pass with Fleetwith Pike prominent. All the big boys to the south were in cloud except for Great Gable, but we were in the clear merrily snapping away - some cracking pictures today even though I say it myself.

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the view back down to Langstrath from the climb up Bessyboot 

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 just coming

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 getting higher - Ullscarf across the valley

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 we walked down steeply the other side through the trees

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 glorious views back down the Langstrath  valley towards Castle Crag

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 Hobbit country, mind where you step

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 some small falls at the top of the climb, after this you're almost there

We finished gazing around and dropped down towards the Tarn at Leaves - strange name that one - and we found some shelter for a quick lunch break. It didn't take long to get cold fingers so we didn't wait too long before setting off again heading down into the Seathwaite valley. Dibble was in a bit of a rush to get home, so we let her push on and said our goodbyes. We stayed and enjoyed the spectacular light thrown onto Castle Crag and the valley below - we must have broken the 'Guiness Book of Records' for most shots taken from a single spot. The low afternoon sun was casting wonderful long shadows in the fields - still frosty and likely to be for a good while yet. The route down beside Rottenstone Beck was steep but we stayed on the southern side and stopped often to admire the surrounds, so easing the journey down. We could see Dibble legging it along at a good pace and once we were down in the valley we walked around the base of Thorneythwaite Crags down to the road. Here we crossed over to meet up with the Allerdale Ramble path, crossing the Nichol Dub to walk along the woodland path. We passed a field full of sheep with three yellow rams in it - they looked like they'd had a good time of it despite the cold. We followed the river around to Longthwaite then re-crossed the water by a bridge, wandering across fields back to the start at Rosthwaite. A great walk after only 5 pints the night before, and well worth the effort, especially the route up Bessyboot - as always the reward for your efforts are the views all around - assuming it's not raining of course.

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to the west Fleetwith Pike marks the Honister Pass, with Dale Head to the right 

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 magnificent 360deg views - this to the north

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 Tarn at Leaves

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 on our way down we start to get great light

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  and we took loads of these

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steep enough down to below Thorneythwaite Crags 

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 looking north with beautiful late afternoon sunlight

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 almost down to the Borrowdale road

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a last look at the fells in the fading light 

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