Date: 08-Aug-2008
Map: Landranger 90, OL4, OL5
Weather: Early sunshine, but generally
overcast.
A Blencathra figure of 8 from Threlkeld.
Round to the west flank of Blencathra, up to the summit,
down onto Scales Fell to the col above Mousthwaite Comb.
Back up the valley to Scales Tarn.
Up onto Sharp Edge, then Blencathra summit before returning
via Hall’s Fell Ridge:
9.3 miles on the map,
9.4 on the Pedometer!
I have
had a busy time of it lately with some big climbs on my
recent walks, which left me with my legs feeling like I’d
run for miles the next day. Unfortunately some of the peaks
on these walks have been shrouded in low cloud and I’ve
missed out on some great views, so I took advantage of a
favourable forecast and set off for the
Lake District in the early hours. I arrived
before 7am and the sun was shining, giving a lovely soft
light on the fells. Parking wasn’t a problem at this time of
day and there are a couple of car parks in Threlkeld - they
have honesty boxes for your change. My first impression of
Blencathra was that it is almost overwhelming close up. The
lower slopes are very steep and deeply dissected by the
gills flowing down the southern flank of the hill, giving
rise to a towering mass of a hill, very intimidating in its
own way. My route today would take me in a figure of 8 to
allow me to walk on Sharp Edge and have a good work out at
the same time. Looking up to the steep ridges I was quite
happy that I had decided to walk around to the west flank of
Blencathra and walk up to the easy way to the summit from
there.
Blencathra in the early morning light – Sharp Edge is on the
right
The
path up towards Blease Gill
I had an
early scare today as I was walking up through a small wood
from Threlkeld, I was feeling a bit stiff and I felt a lump
– I thought ‘oh no, a hernia’. But after a bit of an
investigation I found a ball of silver foil in my pocket
that I had rolled up the previous week – panic over! My
initial route walked up to below Blease Gill and then turned
left above the woodland to contour around the base of the
hill. The bracken was wet and very green, and the path
passed along grassy slopes, with far views towards many of
the hills of the Lake District.
It was great to see them free of cloud today and I could
pick out many of the more famous mountains in the distance.
Blease Gill – I crossed here around to the left
Anticipation building for the views around the corner
The
forecast was for rain in the early afternoon, so I planned
to have finished the walk by 1pm – I used
http://www.metcheck.com
and it turned out be very accurate today.
It was a nice steady ascent and fall along the
hillside, with the path dipping down to the road before
climbing up and across the slopes. This route was easy on
the legs and in the clear morning light the views were
fantastic. I have done a few walks in the lakes this year
and recognised many of the peaks I had walked. This time
last year I wouldn’t have, as I hadn’t been walking in the
lakes for many years. But the landscape here is unlike
anywhere else in the UK and it is very addictive, so I
don’t mind coming back often. I haven’t counted up the
number of Wainwright’s that I’ve climbed and I don’t intend
to, as I go walking for the freedom of mind, and exercise.
Maybe I’ll be tempted after I’ve bagged many more fells? As
I made my way across the slopes I passed by several paths
that were more direct to the summit, but I preferred my
route which continued a gentle ascent around the west end of
the hill.
Clough Head and Threlkeld Knotts across the valley
Fantastic clear views of Keswick and the far hills
Lonscale Fell across the valley
All
of the big fells in view – with Derwent Water below Cat
Bells
The
views opened as I got higher up and Lonscale Fell was
prominent across the valley, with its thickly wooded lower
slopes. But all easy walks come to an end and as the path
cut back up the hill the gradient became steeper, and this
being summertime I began to slightly perspire! In fact if I
put my cap in a pan with some potatoes and boiled them up,
I’m sure the potatoes would be too salty. It wasn’t too warm
on the west side as the sun was still low in the sky, but
Skiddaw was basking in the sun across the valley. Higher up
the slopes the path begins to zigzag and takes away the
gradient, enabling you to walk quite quickly towards the
summit. The views to the east were hidden in the early
morning sun, but I could see the mist lingering in the
valleys below the Pennines
in the distance.
I saw lots of Rock Pipits today and a few Wheatears, but
they were all too quick for me to capture them on the
camera. The remaining wildlife consisted of a few rabbits
and the ubiquitous sheep.
The
zigzag path just below the summit
Looking over to Lonscale Fell and Skiddaw
Blencathra summit beckons
As I got
to the crest of Blease Fell and up to Knowe Crags I had
great views all around, and it made such a nice change to be
cloud free. But I could see a few wisps rolling in over the
Scafells, and it looked like the forecast was right as it
began to become more overcast. The summit area towards
Blencathra stretched out before me, nice and gentle and
grassy with the Saddleback ahead of me. The same gentle
feeling could not be applied to the deeply cut gills and
ridges that confronted me when I walked up to the edge. At
first sight it is very impressive and the ground drops
steeply from every point you look at – from the summit, and
from the ridges. I had to count carefully as all the ridges
are very similar in nature, to make sure I followed the
right route this week! Although there is no mistaking Hall’s
Fell or Scales Fell. Hall’s Fell drops away from the summit
of Blencathra, which is marked by a couple of cairns and a
round circle that marks the triangulation point – not the
usual stone or concrete tapering monolith. Scales Fell is
easy to spot as you can see the top of Foule Crag to the
east. As I wandered along the summit path I looked north to
the rolling flanks of Skiddaw, Mungrisdale Common, the
Uldale and Caldbeck Fells. They were much gentler to the
eye, with the Solway Firth beyond and
Scotland
beyond that.
Skiddaw and beyond – the weather creeping towards me
Gategill Fell – steep everywhere
Looking back to Knowe Crags
Looking
north west to
Foule Crag and Bannerdale
The
zigzags down to Scales Fell
The
view across to Sharp Edge from Scales Fell
Looking the other way – Doddick Fell and Hall’s Fell
…and
this one shows all the fells off Blencathra.. steep they
are!
Looking back up to Foule Crag and the top of Sharp Edge
appears from Scales Fell
I didn’t
hang around the top as I wanted to get to Sharp Edge before
the rain did, so I started down Scales Fell. There is a path
that cuts down to Scales Tarn if you don’t want to lose too
much height, but I continued down the zigzags passing by the
top of Doddick Fell on a comfortable path. The top of Scales
Fell is broad and there were good views of the steep ridges
to my right, and I had a preview of what to expect from
Hall’s Fell Ridge later. As I descended Scales Fell the
views were now to the east and the rounded hummocks of Great
Mell Fell and Little Mell Fell, with Penrith in the distance
still misty. The route reaches down to the col above
Mousthwaite Comb and where the paths crossed I turned back
up the valley and was now looking up at Bannerdale Crags.
The path gently ascended the valley contours and I had the
pleasure of seeing the local Shepard rounding up his flock –
I was amazed that they had such easy control of their flock.
When they saw me approaching on the path they just drove the
sheep up the hillside a little further away from me, very
considerate as I was just about to move further up the
hillside myself.
The
col above Mousthwaite Comb – turn left here
They
didn’t look this tidy on ‘One man and his dog’
The
gradient steepened as I approached Scales Tarn, as did the
anticipation of encountering Sharp Edge. Once I was at
Scales Tarn I had a little rest and a drink of juice with
some nibbles. It was very quiet here on a Monday morning and
the only people I had met were the Sheppard. I pondered the
ridge ahead, but I didn’t have any feelings of anxiety as it
is a well used route, although I know it could be
treacherous in poor weather. It does require scrambling
along the crest and particular care has to be taken when
passing Wainwright’s awkward spot. But there is a path down
at the side of the ridge which takes away the exposure – but
if you don’t go up the crest of the ridge you may as well
walk up Scales Fell. Even if you take the easy path there is
no avoiding the scramble up Foule Crag at the end of the
ridge.
The
outflow from Scales Tarn tumbles gently down the hillside
Sharp
Edge reflected in Scales Tarn
Scales Tarn looking a very strange shade of ?
The path
up from Scales Tarn is loose scree but is stable enough and
a little steep and this brings you up to the ridge proper.
Looking back down to Scales Tarn the water was a weird
colour, almost aquamarine, which suggests that it is quite
shallow and probably has a fair amount of green algae in it
– not for drinking from. I took a little breather and strode
onto the ridge rocks which dip away to the left at about
45deg. It was easy to follow in the footsteps of thousands
before me and the route can be seen and felt by the many
polished footfalls and handholds. I took my time to enjoy
the exposure up here and also to look back periodically, as
the view of where you have come from is quite surprising
sometimes in terms of aspect and airiness! Personally I am
not aware of the drops when I am walking up an exposed ridge
as I’m too busy concentrating on where my next steps are
going to be - I suppose that’s a good thing really. As with
all high ridge traverses if you don’t have a head for
heights then don’t even consider coming up here – one look
from the main road should tell you all you want to know. A
little further up the ridge is a wider flatter part that you
can easily walk along, but most of the ridge itself requires
at least some assistance from your hands! The ‘awkward
place’ was fast approaching and from some distance I could
see how polished the area was, and in particular the ‘seat’
that is at the end of the ‘awkward place’. I think most
people would take a breath here and sit down to admire the
views, as well as get closer to the ground for a safer route
to the end of the ridge. In wet weather I would exercise
extreme care when passing here as the rock slopes away to
the valley. But there are good handholds to cling to, and
you can always use your bum as a brake!
If there was a top
trump card of difficulty for Sharp Edge - On a scale of 1 to
10 (1 being blindfolded and twirled around for a minute, and
10 being a change of clothes required) I’d have to rate
Sharp Edge as a 6. Now I think about it I’ll have to rate
all of the ridges I’ve climbed\walked to see which is the
toughest and scariest.
Approaching the ridge
Onto
the rock ledge a little way along
..and
the view back over Bannerdale
Exciting times ahead…getting more polished in my approach
Wainwright’s ‘awkward place’ – note the slope away to the
left side
The
scramble ahead up Foule Crag – easier than it looks
Looking back down on Sharp Edge
The
fast family about to zoom safely across the ridge
All too
soon the ridge finishes and I now had the scramble up Foule
Crag, which follows a shallow gully up, before emerging onto
easier ground towards the crest of the hill. Once I was back
up on the top I turned and appreciated the route I had taken
up today. I’m sure it would be a completely different
proposition in inclement weather and in winter conditions.
I didn’t see the
white cross made up of quartzite that is on view from the
summit, but then again I forgot to look for it – nothing new
there then! But I had other things to keep hold of my
attention, one of them being the fast approaching rain
clouds. Once I had walked back up to the summit of
Blencathra, all I had left to do was the descent of Hall’s
Fell Ridge. Another bit of fun to end the day – I tried to
stick to the crest of the ridge on the way down, which was
easier said than done. I knew it was Hall’s ridge because it
descends directly from the summit.
The
view down Hall’s Fell Ridge – steep either side
Blencathra towers over the start of the ridge
Knowe
Crags beyond a heather clad hillside
There are paths worn
on either side of the ridge, or one side on the steeper
sections. As it was dry and I had good grip with my boots, I
hopped, skipped and generally lunged down the hillside,
trying not to be too reckless. I had to check myself once or
twice as my momentum built, as coming to an abrupt halt was
none to simple in places. There were one or two scrambles to
overcome, but in general it was far less exposed than many
ridges I have been on. The slopes down to the gills on each
side were tremendously steep in places and covered with a
mixture of loose scree, rock and heather. The purple hued
hillside looked marvellous against the dark green and grey
backdrop, and it doesn’t surprise me that this route was one
of Wainwright’s favourites to the top – I quite enjoyed it
on the way down!
The
route winds down the steep buttress – Great Mell & Little
Mell Fell in view
Nearly down to the base of the hill – the views gradually
disappearing
The
path back to Threlkeld – I know because it says so.
At the
end of the ridge the path winds down the steep buttress
towards Gategill and crosses over the stream above a weir.
Raindrops were starting to fall on me, but not enough to get
me too wet, so I didn’t bother with waterproofs. I had
passed by a few people on the way down that were making
their way up, and I felt a little sorry for them that the
far fells would now be obscured by cloud, and they would be
wet as well – oh to be born lucky!
Looking back up the valley I could see some old mine
buildings, but was short of time and didn’t go and
investigate. I had a choice of ways back to Threlkeld and
chose to contour around the base of the hill to Blease Gill
and then back down the same path I had started on to end up
back at the car park. I eased my boots off and put my pack
away at 1pm – it took me 6 hours today to walk up Blencathra
twice – but at least I meant to go that way this week and I
had a lot of ascent today. Once I was in the car the rain
started to hammer down – the weather forecasters were spot
on, and for once I was grateful to have taken notice of it –
they are brilliant when they get it right!
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