Crinkle Crags and Bowfell
Date: 19-Feb-2008
Map: Landranger 90
Weather: Cold at first. Bright sunshine all day.
A circular walk from Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, up past Pike O’Blisco to Crinkle Crags, on to Bowfell and back around to Mickleden: 12.5 miles – as measured by a £5 Asda pedometer (10miles on the map)
I had been fogged-in
on the rig for 4 days and arrived home to glorious weather.
So I checked out the weather (
www.lake-district.gov.uk/weatherline ) in the
Looking up Great Langdale in the early morning light I
think that’s Harrison Stickle with I
left the car at Old Dungeon Ghyll Just
out of the car park – no river just Ice On my way
to Stool End it was a bit of a strain, but it soon passed!
The way ahead looked steep and I knew that the old leg
muscles would be complaining before the day was out. The
route ahead was to the left, up Oxendale past the Pike of
Blisco Beyond
the farm at Stool End the path takes you across the valley
floor and across the river by the way of some stepping
stones. You’ll note all the large boulders in the beck,
these being dumped here from further up the valley during
the last ice age. The path ahead wasn’t clear but it soon
became apparent that there is a continuous run of steps
leading up the hillside Pike
of Stickle – that’s Latin for big pimple. Lots
of boulders for walling – looking back down Langdale From the
valley floor it is a long and arduous pull up the hillside
to Brown Howe, passing by the Pike of Blisco. The path is so
well used that there is no lichen growth, so you cannot
stray too far away. If in doubt stop and have a look around
– and that applies to most of today’s route. The steps were
iced up in places where water runs down and in the shade of
the hill the temperature stayed close to freezing. But
inside my fleece the temperature was close to boiling point! The
path runs from left centre of picture to top left Icy
Steps Eventually the gradient eases and the steps give way
to a gravel path leading on to Red Tarn, with the Pike of
Blisco dark and cold above you. It took me about 1hr 20mins
to reach the tarn and the very welcome sunshine that came
with it. I disrobed at this point as the temperature was a
good few degrees higher on top. With more climb to come I
was down to T-shirt & Jacket, but I kept the long johns on!
Here the view is dominated by the Pike of Stickle and Gimmer
Crag, well illuminated in the morning sun. Red
Tarn & Wetherlam. Ingleborough in the far distance Pike
of Stickle and the Langdale Pikes – The valley far below I had a
good rest here as there was a handy boulder to sit on, and
enjoyed the views. The route turned towards higher ground
and the relentless walk up the gravelled paths. These will
eventually break down to finer particles but now they are
not the best surface to walk on. It stops erosion, but by
the look of the grass alongside the path it has encouraged
people to walk slightly off the track. The first 6 miles of
this walk were uphill and at times it is very tiring. But
the views that become available to you make it all worth
while – but it was hard on the feet and toes. Blue
sky everywhere – brings a smile to your face
Looking down over Red Tarn – misty valleys to the east and
coast
Great
Knott and Pike
of Blisco – note the level horizon – an ancient Peneplain There were
vast views when I got up to Long Top, clear blue skies as
far as I could see. Any mist was below me in the valleys.
The mountains of the The
view from Great Knott, Skiddaw in the distance
Snowdonia was in the distance, but it doesn’t show here
Looking down on Pike of Blisco & Red Tarn – Wetherlam on the
right After my
rest I made my way down over rockfalls and boulders towards
the Crinkle Crags. The choice now was of an easy route to
the left or the awkward route to the bad step?
Being in a state of delirium from all the exertion to
the top I chose the ‘Bad Step’ – well…your’e only middle
aged for about 50 years, so why not. The slab doesn’t look
too bad from a distance but when you get close up you wish
you were 7ft6inch tall. The slab is about 10ft up in the
air, and the way up is to climb to the right side. I warn
you all that it is not easy, so if in doubt walk back down
and take the easy option. Bad
Step in the shadows Ooh
eerrrrrr…. Once you
have overcome, or you have been overcome, continue on to the
top of the first Crinkle Crag. There are lots of slabs to be
walked over so take care not to turn over an ankle. You
continue northwards up and down several sharp rises and
falls. The path is indistinct, but again you can see where
there is less lichen. Bowfell looms ever larger before you
and I knew that another stiff climb was in prospect, but on
the flipside it is almost halfway and a great spot to take
lunch and have a well deserved rest.
Looking back to the first Crinkle Crag – Bad Step over the
hill Down
to Shelter Crag, then up, then down, then up to Bowfell The
Scafells ThreeTarns
came into view as I made my way down a steep flank of
Shelter Crag, leaping from slab to slab….actually carefully
stepping down. It was hard work down as well as up today.
The loose aggregate and stone on the path up the side of
Bowfell was a real pain in the legs (bum cheeks were getting
a good work out as well – that’s exercise folks!). I stopped
frequently for breath and of course to take in the ever
changing views. You can see the path up the side in the
picture above, and how the ground levels off before the
final route to the peak. The top end of the Great Slab came
into view, and when you peer over the edge it is a very
impressive sight – much better than a giant Toblerone! The
steep rocky flank of Shelter Crag – One Tarn at the bottom Two
Tarns, Shelter Crag, Crinkle Crags, Red Tarn to the distant
left. The
Great Slab and Bowfell Buttress A big
Slab with Pike of Stickle across the valley The slab
tilts down towards the valley, but you could walk down it if
you are sure footed. I stayed to the inside edge and went
down a short distance. But I had enough of the walk left
without adding a few extras. It’s a long way to the valley
floor. There were some interesting rocks around up here, one
large boulder had cleaved into four pieces. Supernanny could
use it for
placing recalcitrant children, instead of the naughty step –
no, only kidding as you’d have to carry them up here anyway! Let
me out!!! I don’t like you!!! Mummmmy……….. The
King Penguin rocks Some strange shapes
could be picked out. Lots of the rock slabs up here must
have been shattered by freeze / thaw processes during the
last ice ages. From here it was a short ascent to the top of
Bowfell, which was popular today. But there was plenty of
room for a lovely spot in the sun, and would you believe it
I got a little sunburn – in February!! I sat down and
enjoyed the views. I got my Baps out – floury ones with
marmite on them. I also had Extra Thick Veg soup today which
was very welcome. I think my wife had some as well, because
when I got home and said “I’ve never seen so many Pikes”,
she replied “What? Fish?”…what ingredients have Heinz been
putting in there? After lunch I had a small celebration for
reaching the top and for
That’s me twirling the scarf, not the wind. There wasn’t any The
River Esk and Hard Knott. A thick bank of sea mist in the
distance Great
Slab, Pike of Stickle, and Langdale far, far below
Looking back up to Hanging Knotts from Ore Gap After a really good
break, I picked my way down the slopes and made my way
towards Hanging Knotts which overlooks Angle Tarn (a
steep drop) and Ore Gap.Tiredness
was setting in as I faced the last big haul of the day up
over Esk Pike. From the top there were great views down to
the glacial moraines at Tongue Head below Angle Tarn - the
typical basket of eggs topography. Good views to be had of
Stonethwaite Fell and Helvellyn in the distance, and the
Borrowdale Fells to the north The
glacial moraines below Angle Tarn
Eskdale and beyond to the coast I descended
from Esk Pike down to Esk Hause, once more on a steep rocky
path, and from this point on most of the way was down. That
sounds good, but it was so steep in places that it was as
difficult going as the climbs, without the sweatiness! At
Esk Hause there
is a junction of paths, and you turn right down towards a
cross shelter, which looked very inviting in the sunshine.
Past here I turned right again and was now facing back
towards the south-east on my homeward journey. You get a
good view of where you have been and where you want to go.
Down towards Angle Tarn the path is roughly paved in a
series of steps to protect against erosion. The path levels
off before a small incline to Angle Tarn, with Esk Pike and
Hanging Knotts darkly above you – the north facing slopes
iced up in places….brrrrrrrr.
Heading down towards Angle Tarn
Glacial moraines below the Angle
Tarn outflow A
frozen Angle Tarn The tarn was
completely frozen over, and judging by the amount of stones
that had been hurled onto the ice, it had been frozen for
sometime. It doesn’t get much sunshine in the wintertime
here, and I would think the water is absolutely Baltic even
in the summertime. You can see some glacially smoothed rocks
at the top of the moraines, quite distinct from the rocks
seen at the top of the pikes. A last climb up a gentle slope
brings you to Rossett Pike, and from here the steps are with
you until the valley floor. The path twists and turns as you
descend down a very steep slope. A
welcome sight – Mickleden down below Pike
of Stickle – sunny all day Your legs
will be tired now, mine were (still sore two days later). It
doesn’t look far down to the valley but there was a few
miles left to go. The views were now dominated by Bowfell
above, and the Great Slab – very dark in the shade, and Pike
of Stickle showing off in the sunshine. Peaceful Mickleden
beckoned in the afternoon sun, but I couldn’t hurry because
the path was so uneven. As you reach the valley there are
more piles of moraine deposited long ago, and the usual
piles of boulders in the stream. I crossed a springy board
bridge across Rossett Gill and then you have the relatively
flat path back to Old Dungeon Ghyll, half in and half out of
the sunshine. You can see the route taken today and marvel
at how steep the journey was. The
Great Slab and Bowfell from the path down Rossett Gill The
winding path down. The valley floor is top left of picture
Bowfell dominates the skyline Lower
down approaching the valley – note the glacial moraine
Back
up the valley up to Rossett Pike – a long way down
Nearly there only a mile or two A
last look back – steep it is!
That
old Pike of Stickle Just
around the corner and the sun is still shining on me!
It was a long hard
day but I loved every minute of it. One thing I forgot today
was to imbibe a litre of water before my walk, and I only
carried a litre and a bit with me. Despite the cold I needed
a regular top up of fluid and I ran out after 9 miles. By
the time I got back I was parched, but the Old Dungeon Ghyll
Hotel came to the rescue. So remember to always take enough
water – don’t break your own rules. Cut your toenails! Your
nails will cut into your other toes if not trimmed – believe
me it is very painful. My boots were well and truly scuffed
after rock hopping all day long, and will need a good dollop
of Dubbin in the next day or two. I didn’t think about how
long it took me to take all of my pictures, but on an
average day I would take around 120 shots to make sure I get
all of the details I can. That equates to stopping and
starting a lot at 10sec a picture!! I thought it was me
being slow. Today’s walk took around 7hrs 45mins for around
12 ½ miles. Today’s measurement was on a pedometer, which
proved reasonably accurate.
I will use it again – I took 27,000 steps, and
apparently burned up 715kcals – equivalent to a couple of
Mars Bars! The moral of the story is watch what you eat!!
But don’t despair all that hard work will tone you up. And
finally a good end to the day….
Aaaaggggggggghhh…Walking…its thirsty work!!
