Great Gable - the last Wainwright

Date: 23-Mar-2012

Map: Landranger 89

Weather: Crisp with hazy sunshine.

 

From the car parking next to Seathwaite Farm up beside Sourmilk Gill, then onto Base Brown via the hanging stone. Along to Green Gable, down to Windy Gap and up to Gable. Down to Beck Head and contour around Great Gable on the girdle traverse to Sty Head. Return to Seathwaite via Styhead Gill, Greenhow Knott and Stockley Bridge: a tough 6 miles as measured on memory map.

 I was meant to be working this week but had flights cancelled twice, and as the weather was set fair I decided to knock off the last of the Wainwrights, finishing on the great Great Gable. I didn’t want to pre-arrange a meet up as I (selfishly) wanted good weather to enjoy my finale. Unbeknown to me Cogstar had arranged a walk with some fellow forumites starting from Seathwaite Farm up to Glaramara and Great End. So I thought it would be nice to meet up and be waved on my merry way. Micky and Cogstar turned up early and looked over to Base Brown, admiring the route up from the valley floor, the blue sky above, with a good level of hazy sunshine obscuring the views. Roaring up the road AJ, Humper Lumper and Frankie arrived with Lake District smiles on their faces. After a little discussion they all agreed to give up their planned day and join me on a jaunt up to Great Gable. I really appreciated this gesture, especially as Rich had earmarked Great Gable for his hundredth Wainwright at his June birthday bash. I had tied a bounty bar and a picnic bar to the back of my rucksack as a little temptation which obviously worked, and also loaded up the beer / cider mule for some liquid refreshment at the top.
After a good faff we set off through the farm and out towards Sourmilk Gill, which took us up over Seathwaite Slabs and then the direct route up to Base Brown. I’d taken pictures of the Wainwright ‘Western Fells’ book with my I-phone, an inspired idea as it allowed us to see the big boulder and the route up to the hanging stone, with the perched boulder beyond after an easy scramble. AW’s route was fine to follow and even though it said ’depression’ I was quite happy, and we were soon up on top of Base Brown. This way up is a long steady, steepish climb, but gets you up to the top fairly quick and once up there, the undulations are a little less demanding. AJ had decided early on that the sun would be splitting the rocks and he was the only sensible one, passing round the sunscreen before we set off. However he spoilt that impression when he donned a shirt around his head and a poor version of Mary appeared before us. Up on Base Brown Rich called up Dibble on the mobile and told her our estimated time up to Green Gable, so we could rendezvous, and Frankie could get his ‘Barry White’ love moves sorted out ready for the lady collies Lexi and Sylvi. Dibble phoned back later and told us she’d meet us on top of Great Gable. The route to green Gable was nice and steady, not too taxing and although very misty we still had views over the valley to Glaramara, with the oft repeated phrase of ‘that’s where we should be today’ – I think they were joking though. Up on Green Gable summit, my first thoughts looking over to Great Gable were ‘this is the end my friends’, and immediately after my thoughts turned to the fantastic view down Ennerdale. Although it was misty it is one of the best views in the Lakes – better than the views a little further to the east. We heard a ‘chop-chop’ coming across the airwaves, a familiar sound of a Chinook helicopter coming up the valley, and it appeared flying between Haystacks and Seat at Scarth Gap. Then slowly it flew over the valley below us between Kirk Fell and Great Gable, disappearing somewhere down Wasdale. At this point AJ produced his quote of the day. ‘I’ll just check out Great Gable in my AW book’ – unfortunately he’d brought the Southern Fells with him and we were on the Western Fells. But to be fair they were going over to Glaramara, so he wasn’t wrong to start with. Once we’d had our bit of lunch it was down to Windy Gap before the steady ascent up to Great Gable – only 500ft. I wandered up slowly with AJ and he asked if I was savouring the moment, and he was dead right, I was. The feeling for me was the same as I get evrytime I am finishing a long distance walk – satisfaction of a job well done, and anticipation of what comes next. Then it was over – up on top with friends, some liquid refreshment and a handshake from an Australian lady who had only just visited the Lake District. Up on the top I really appreciated the company to celebrate the end of the tick list. I popped my cork at the summit and didn’t see it again, but the fizz tasted sweet, and went down well with some Marmite crisps.
Then it was off again on the exciting part of the journey around the south traverse, crossing the scree slopes that seem impossibly steep from the other side of the valley. We descended down to Beck Head, slipping and sliding down a loose scree path. I think most of us hit the deck at one point or the other, with some spectacular backward scree running techniques from AJ. Dibble did really well as she had three dogs to attend to on the descent. I think we dropped down a little far and missed the start of the upper scree path below the crags, but Cogstar eventually found a path of sorts, which was a little sketchy on the ground. But it was a fun way around below the White Napes and the Great Napes, crossing the big stone scree slopes of Little Hell Gate and Great Hell Gate. The views down Wasdale were misty, but across the valley Lingmell and the Scafells were close enough to be studied now and again. We made steady progress across the traverse and as we got to the Napes Needle Dibble had dropped her camera, so while she retrieved it (thankfully still in working order) Cogstar, self and Rich climbed up the slopes to the Needle to have a little climb. We watched Cogstar struggling up the narrow cleft and I decided I’d leave that for another day, as I didn’t fancy the struggle back down. Neither did Paul, as he disappeared from view and descended the other side of the needle. After this bit of fun the route became a lot clearer, and we stuck to the path below big fallen slabs of rock, crossing more scree and generally enjoying the traverse. It’s the type of route where you can take time and enjoy the surroundings, so we did. Micky disappeared to a lower path and met up with some ladies who had found Frankies drinking pouch, although the dogs had a good slurp at every beck they crossed. We all met up again at Styhead and had to say our goodbyes and thanks to Dibble, as she returned back down to Wasdale Head, Frankie waving a mournful paw as they disappeared from view. Then it was a simple walk back down past Styhead Tarn below Seathwaite Fell, dropping down to the valley at Stockley Bridge. By this time Cogstar and Micky had surged ahead so they could get back in decent time for Mickys drive home. It’s a pleasant wander down the valley back to the farm, passing by lots of sheep ready for lambing time soon. A peaceful end to a great day out, and one that will stay with me for a long, long time. Good friends, a good time in good weather - who could ask for more?
AJ kindly gave me a book written by A.H.Griffin, a local journalist who lived in the Furness Fells – a sort of precursor of Alfred Wainwright. I’ll look forward to reading this especially as I found AJ had written a note on the inside cover for me –

‘To Pete on the day of your last Wainwright. Proud to be with you mate!’

That’s class that is. Many heartfelt thanks to all for making a great day out even better.

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from Seathwaite looking over to our route up to Seathwaite Slabs and up to Base Brown

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setting out from Seathwaite

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up the valley towards Seathwaite Fell on the right, Glaramara up to the left

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a nice windy path led us up by Sourmilk Gill

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a little hazy today looking back down on Seathwaite

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Raven Crag across Gillercomb

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the 'Hanging Stone' on the way up to Base Brown

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Frankie enjoying the scenery

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the view down Seathwaite Slabs

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the waterfall at the top of Seathwaite Slabs before the ascent to Base Brown

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the path led us around to Gillercomb where we cut up to the perched boulder

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the view from Base Brown towards Gable

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Brandreth and Grey Knotts with High Crag in the distance

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looking back to Base Brown on the way to Green Gable

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and a little further along the path, it was getting very hazy

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the last bit up to Green Gable and Gable appears in the distance

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the summit of Green Gable with Great Gable waiting to be climbed

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I have to return here for a sunny view down Ennerdale - Pillar to the left and High Stile to the right

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Paul and Micky set off for Gable

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one last look down Ennerdale before the ascent

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looking back to Green Gable from the ascent up to Great Gable

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AJ on his way with the path up Aaron Slack from the right

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almost there - looking back to Green Gable and Base Brown

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and that was it - Wainwrights all finished - a very hazy Wasdale

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and the Scafells across the valley

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and Kirk Fell, Pillar and Ennerdale the other way

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a happy celebration of a very enjoyable pastime

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celebrations over it was steeply down to Beck Head on loose scree

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and a little lower down it was less hazy

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it was a bit of a giggle sliding down this lot

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with some interesting techniques

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the route across to Kirk Fell at Beck Head, but we went to the left

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and eventually found a route that led us around the Gable Girdle

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we threaded our way across the scree slopes

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Lingmell Beck was far below Lingmell  across the valley

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Wast Water a little clearer now beyond Wasdale Head

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 alittle up and down led us around to below the Great Napes

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and some huge scree slopes

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from across the valley these slopes look formidable

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below the Great Napes

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the never changing view of Wasdale

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Great End across the valley

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Paul on his way to climb up past the Napes Needle

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still a long way down to the valley floor

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a little scramble up

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turns into a squeeze of a climb

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looking back to the Napes Needle

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crossing another great scree slope with Westmorland Crags high above

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more scree to negotiate

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a last look up - spectacular

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then down and across to Kern Knotts

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the rock tower on the left is the Great Napes

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a last look back to our route around the girdle

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passing around Kern Knotts

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Great End across the valley above Sty Head

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making our way bak towards Seathwaite along Styhead Gill

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still misty as we make our way down to Taylorgill Force

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down to the valley to a well used path back to Seathwaite

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Seathwaite Fell





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Stockley Bridge crosses Grains Gill

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Seathwaite Fell - Taylorgill Force on the right

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the path back to Seathwaite

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the end - what a great day with great company - thanks all

 

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