Great Gable - the last Wainwright
Date: 23-Mar-2012
Map: Landranger 89
Weather: Crisp with hazy sunshine.
From the car parking next to Seathwaite Farm up beside Sourmilk Gill, then onto Base Brown via the hanging stone. Along to Green Gable, down to Windy Gap and up to Gable. Down to Beck Head and contour around Great Gable on the girdle traverse to Sty Head. Return to Seathwaite via Styhead Gill, Greenhow Knott and Stockley Bridge: a tough 6 miles as measured on memory map.
After a good faff we set off through the farm and out
towards Sourmilk Gill, which took us up over Seathwaite
Slabs and then the direct route up to Base Brown. I’d taken
pictures of the Wainwright ‘Western Fells’ book with my
I-phone, an inspired idea as it allowed us to see the big
boulder and the route up to the hanging stone, with the
perched boulder beyond after an easy scramble. AW’s route
was fine to follow and even though it said ’depression’ I
was quite happy, and we were soon up on top of Base Brown.
This way up is a long steady, steepish climb, but gets you
up to the top fairly quick and once up there, the
undulations are a little less demanding. AJ had decided
early on that the sun would be splitting the rocks and he
was the only sensible one, passing round the sunscreen
before we set off. However he spoilt that impression when he
donned a shirt around his head and a poor version of Mary
appeared before us. Up on Base Brown Rich called up Dibble
on the mobile and told her our estimated time up to Green
Gable, so we could rendezvous, and Frankie could get his
‘Barry White’ love moves sorted out ready for the lady
collies Lexi and Sylvi. Dibble phoned back later and told us
she’d meet us on top of Great Gable. The route to green
Gable was nice and steady, not too taxing and although very
misty we still had views over the valley to Glaramara, with
the oft repeated phrase of ‘that’s where we should be today’
– I think they were joking though. Up on Green Gable summit,
my first thoughts looking over to Great Gable were ‘this is
the end my friends’, and immediately after my thoughts
turned to the fantastic view down Ennerdale. Although it was
misty it is one of the best views in the Lakes – better than
the views a little further to the east. We heard a
‘chop-chop’ coming across the airwaves, a familiar sound of
a Chinook helicopter coming up the valley, and it appeared
flying between Haystacks and Seat at Scarth Gap. Then slowly
it flew over the valley below us between Kirk Fell and Great
Gable, disappearing somewhere down Wasdale. At this point AJ
produced his quote of the day. ‘I’ll just check out Great
Gable in my AW book’ – unfortunately he’d brought the
Southern Fells with him and we were on the Western Fells.
But to be fair they were going over to Glaramara, so he
wasn’t wrong to start with. Once we’d had our bit of lunch
it was down to Windy Gap before the steady ascent up to
Great Gable – only 500ft. I wandered up slowly with AJ and
he asked if I was savouring the moment, and he was dead
right, I was. The feeling for me was the same as I get
evrytime I am finishing a long distance walk – satisfaction
of a job well done, and anticipation of what comes next.
Then it was over – up on top with friends, some liquid
refreshment and a handshake from an Australian lady who had
only just visited the Lake District. Up on the top I really
appreciated the company to celebrate the end of the tick
list. I popped my cork at the summit and didn’t see it
again, but the fizz tasted sweet, and went down well with
some Marmite crisps.
Then it was off again on the exciting part of the journey
around the south traverse, crossing the scree slopes that
seem impossibly steep from the other side of the valley. We
descended down to Beck Head, slipping and sliding down a
loose scree path. I think most of us hit the deck at one
point or the other, with some spectacular backward scree
running techniques from AJ. Dibble did really well as she
had three dogs to attend to on the descent. I think we
dropped down a little far and missed the start of the upper
scree path below the crags, but Cogstar eventually found a
path of sorts, which was a little sketchy on the ground. But
it was a fun way around below the White Napes and the Great
Napes, crossing the big stone scree slopes of Little Hell
Gate and Great Hell Gate. The views down Wasdale were misty,
but across the valley Lingmell and the Scafells were close
enough to be studied now and again. We made steady progress
across the traverse and as we got to the Napes Needle Dibble
had dropped her camera, so while she retrieved it
(thankfully still in working order) Cogstar, self and Rich
climbed up the slopes to the Needle to have a little climb.
We watched Cogstar struggling up the narrow cleft and I
decided I’d leave that for another day, as I didn’t fancy
the struggle back down. Neither did Paul, as he disappeared
from view and descended the other side of the needle. After
this bit of fun the route became a lot clearer, and we stuck
to the path below big fallen slabs of rock, crossing more
scree and generally enjoying the traverse. It’s the type of
route where you can take time and enjoy the surroundings, so
we did. Micky disappeared to a lower path and met up with
some ladies who had found Frankies drinking pouch, although
the dogs had a good slurp at every beck they crossed. We all
met up again at Styhead and had to say our goodbyes and
thanks to Dibble, as she returned back down to Wasdale Head,
Frankie waving a mournful paw as they disappeared from view.
Then it was a simple walk back down past Styhead Tarn below
Seathwaite Fell, dropping down to the valley at Stockley
Bridge. By this time Cogstar and Micky had surged ahead so
they could get back in decent time for Mickys drive home.
It’s a pleasant wander down the valley back to the farm,
passing by lots of sheep ready for lambing time soon. A
peaceful end to a great day out, and one that will stay with
me for a long, long time. Good friends, a good time in good
weather - who could ask for more?
AJ kindly gave me a book written by A.H.Griffin, a local
journalist who lived in the Furness Fells – a sort of
precursor of Alfred Wainwright. I’ll look forward to reading
this especially as I found AJ had written a note on the
inside cover for me –
‘To Pete on the day of your last Wainwright. Proud to be
with you mate!’
That’s class that is. Many heartfelt thanks to all for
making a great day out even better.
from Seathwaite looking over to our route up to Seathwaite Slabs and up to Base Brown
setting out from Seathwaite
up the valley towards Seathwaite Fell on the right, Glaramara up to the left
a nice windy path led us up by Sourmilk Gill
a little hazy today looking back down on Seathwaite
Raven Crag across Gillercomb
the 'Hanging Stone' on the way up to Base Brown
Frankie enjoying the scenery
the view down Seathwaite Slabs
the waterfall at the top of Seathwaite Slabs before the ascent to Base Brown
the path led us around to Gillercomb where we cut up to the perched boulder
the view from Base Brown towards Gable
Brandreth and Grey Knotts with High Crag in the distance
looking back to Base Brown on the way to Green Gable
and a little further along the path, it was getting very hazy
the last bit up to Green Gable and Gable appears in the distance
the summit of Green Gable with Great Gable waiting to be climbed
I have to return here for a sunny view down Ennerdale - Pillar to the left and High Stile to the right
Paul and Micky set off for Gable
one last look down Ennerdale before the ascent
looking back to Green Gable from the ascent up to Great Gable
AJ on his way with the path up Aaron Slack from the right
almost there - looking back to Green Gable and Base Brown
and that was it - Wainwrights all finished - a very hazy Wasdale
and the Scafells across the valley
and Kirk Fell, Pillar and Ennerdale the other way
a happy celebration of a very enjoyable pastime
celebrations over it was steeply down to Beck Head on loose scree
and a little lower down it was less hazy
it was a bit of a giggle sliding down this lot
with some interesting techniques
the route across to Kirk Fell at Beck Head, but we went to the left
and eventually found a route that led us around the Gable Girdle
we threaded our way across the scree slopes
Lingmell Beck was far below Lingmell across the valley
Wast Water a little clearer now beyond Wasdale Head
alittle up and down led us around to below the Great Napes
and some huge scree slopes
from across the valley these slopes look formidable
below the Great Napes
the never changing view of Wasdale
Great End across the valley
Paul on his way to climb up past the Napes Needle
still a long way down to the valley floor
a little scramble up
turns into a squeeze of a climb
looking back to the Napes Needle
crossing another great scree slope with Westmorland Crags high above
more scree to negotiate
a last look up - spectacular
then down and across to Kern Knotts
the rock tower on the left is the Great Napes
a last look back to our route around the girdle
passing around Kern Knotts
Great End across the valley above Sty Head
making our way bak towards Seathwaite along Styhead Gill
still misty as we make our way down to Taylorgill Force
down to the valley to a well used path back to Seathwaite
Seathwaite Fell
Stockley Bridge crosses Grains Gill
Seathwaite Fell - Taylorgill Force on the right
the path back to Seathwaite
the end - what a great day with great company - thanks all