Seathwaite Fell with a Great End

Date: 23-Nov-2010

Map: Landranger 90

Weather: Cold, with some sunshine, cloudy on top & snow on the ground

 

From the farm at Seathwaite along to Stockley Bridge and up to Seathwaite Fell. Along to Sprinkling Tarn and up to Esk Hause. Up to Great End and return via Styhead Tarn to Seathwaite : 9.3 miles as measured on memory map.

I drove up to the Lakes to have a quiet sort of day before meeting up with some friends tomorrow. I decided to stay overnight and tick off another 2 Wainwrights in leisurely fashion. It was going to be one, but you know how it is and I got a little carried away, but still finished in good time.  I've walked up to Scafell Pike along this route before, so knew of the route from Seathwaite along to Stockley Bridge and beyond. There was plenty of free parking room at Seathwaite, and as I got booted up I could see it was going to be a mixed bag for the weather today. I walked up through the farm and had a nice gentle ascent to Stockley Bridge, where I snuck down to the beck to try and get a good snap of the old bridge. I nearly snapped myself as I took a big tumble off a greasy rock - luckily avoiding the beck and landing on the meaty part of my shoulder and back pack with my camera safely pointing skywards - talk about backsack and crack! It hurt a little later on but I still managed to raise a pint or two. After the bridge the path ascends a little steeper up besides Taylorforce Gill waterfall which was running quite heavey after all the rain we have had recently. The path is nicely stepped and I soon made progress to slightly easier ground where I decided to cut up higher to Seathwaite Fell.

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beautiful morning light at Rosthwaite- shame about the mark on the sensor 

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Seathwaite Fell is the centre of the picture 

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 Stockley Bridge

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looking back down Seathwaite 

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my route up to the summit of Seathwaite Fell 

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 the view down Seathwaite to the Borrowdale Fells, Blencathra in the distance

It was steep up to the summit, but you get there a lot quicker, and a faint path beside a gully soon had me up towards the top, with Great Gable prominent whenever I stopped for a breathe. I was trying out my new winter gear today - Paramo Velez smock and cascada pants - I was impressed as it sucked the sweat away from my merino base layer and kept me warm despite being close to zero, the lack of wind helped. There are impressive views from the summit and some nice geology to look at - some volcaniclastic sandstone and Andesite as well as some Breccia - that all looked good on a photo of the surrounding fells. The views were a bit obscured to the bigger peaks as they were just into the cloud base, but the view up Borrowdale was fantastic. There are several cairn tops along the Seathwaite Fell, with lots of small tarns for reflective pictures, except today they were mostly frozen, except for the biggest one. I worked my way to the south west, winding around icy waters and boggy bits, but the sun was shining and it was turning out to be a fine day. Great Gable continued to be free of cloud, but Great End was mostly just in the cloud base - funny how localized the weather can be up here - many times I've been up on one ridge while it's next door neighbour has been completely covered in cloud and mist. Luck of the draw I guess.

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a blurry walker ascends the steeper slopes of Seathwaite Fell 

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the glorious view looking north to Derwent Water 

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the summit cairn 

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 looking back to the summit cairn on Seathwaite Fell 

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one of the many small tarns 

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Great Gable almost cloud free 

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Great End reflected in Sprinkling Tarn 

I had made good time up here and wasn't in a rush so I thought I'd wander up to Esk Hause and see how it was with regard to the snow and ice. I had two big ones left on the Scafell range, one of them being Great End. I arrived at Sprinkling Tarn, peaceful and unfrozen, studied Great End and decided it was easily do-able from here. I walked over to the main path up from Styhead and set about climbing up the icy terrain. It was very slippy in places so I got out the walking stick for some support and to use as a brake should I need it. - the crampons were in the car and although they would have helped me progress they weren't essential. I met a few people coming down from Scafell Pike, who said they were in and out of cloud all morning, so I had a 50% chance of a view from the summit. Following them were a party of French walkers who asked me what this mountain was called -

‘Excuse me monsieur, what is this mountain called?’
‘its called Great End, Madame’
‘oh merde, where is Scafell Pike’
‘it’s two mountain tops along, the one with all the shelters’
‘double merde, don’t tell anyone’ 

A great comedy moment for me and I had a good chuckle at that. I set course up a snowy slope, gingerly stepping in previous footsteps now frozen - mostly firm but I occasionally disappeared up to the knee - but generally it was ok and I didn't risk many slips and trips. The views were enticing when I could see them with Esk Pike and the Langdales in and out of sight, and all the bigger boys were wearing cloud caps.

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disappearing up into the clouds on my way to Esk Hause 

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 a little more snow on the higher ground

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Esk Pike with Bowfell, Crinkly Crags behind and Hard Knott, Harter Fell in the distance 

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the icy summit of Great End 

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a brief glimpse over the valley to Base Brown 

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back down passing the cross shelter 

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 it was left here for the return route

 

I paused for refreshments by a large stone cairn and redirected a couple looking for the Langdales - I envied them their journey today which was up over Scafell Pike from Wasdale and down to the New Dungheon Ghyll in Langdale. Then it was on towards higher ground, gently ascending up the snowy path. On the higher ground the snow was a little more powdery as it hadn't thawed like the lower slopes. A cross shelter to my right showed that there was a route up to the toptowards Great End. So I veered off to my right and followed more footprints in the snow, up into more cloud. I was concentrating on my footing so didn't really notice the work done to get up to Great End, and as the cloud got thicker I took some compass headings from my Satmap GPS and headed off towards the top of Great End. You'd have to be very careful not to stray too far off the summit as there are steep crags up here. The summit shelter had a deep crust of icy snow crystals blown in on the prevailing wind, and I didn't have much of a view except for an occasional glimpse of the valley below towards Wasdale and Great Gable. I stayed around for a little time hoping that I would get a brief moment of clarity, but it didn't arrive. It was cold enough so I about turned and descended back the way I had arrived - easily following my own footprints as they were the only ones up here today. The descent was easier too as I could dig my heels in to avoid any slipping down the snowy slopes, and I didn't have any mishaps. Eventually I dropped below the clouds and had views down to the coast and the Langdales before turning back towards Seathwaite Fell and Great Gable. The path now was the same I came up on and I successfully got down to Styhead Tarn , the sun now dropping behind the big fells - it's surprising how dim it gets down in the shady side. I passed by a tent pitched along the end of Styhead Tarn and shivered at the thought of a night spent under canvas in this cold. The big boys were still cloud covered as I made my way back down to Stockley Bridge and on to Seathwaite Farm - a nice little warmer for tomorrow and a fine night spent in the Scafell Hotel in Rosthwaite - I'm getting a taste for the 'Jennings Cumberland Ale' now - cheers.

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the view up to Ill Crag and the coast  

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time to go down - Glaramara is the big one on the right 

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turning towards Great Gable once more 

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Styhead Tarn and beyond is the route back down to Seathwaite

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