Hello High Raise and Helm Crag

Date: 21-Nov-2008

Map: Landranger 90, OL5, OL7

Weather: Sunny to start, followed by drizzle, then with stinging sleet and a bit of snow on top, with a bitter northerly wind. But ending up in late afternoon sunshine.

 

(Route map)

From Grasmere village walk along Easedale Road, up to the tarn. Climb up to Blea Rigg and walk up to Sergeant Man. Continue up to High Raise, then down to Greenup Edge. Cross over the valley and head over to Blackriggs Moss, follow the ridge down to Gibsons Knott and Helm Crag, returning to Grasmere: 12.6 miles as measured on my new talking pedometer – I stuffed it in the bag as it wasn’t working initially – then it did.

After a lovely walk earlier in the week I was hopeful of the same, and the weather forecast was favourable. But the law of averages states that into all our lives some rain will fall – rats. I parked up behind the café close to Grasmere church and paid the £6 daily charge. No one was around save a few couples out for a stroll to browse around the village. I was expecting it to be nippy today so decided on a four layer clothing set today to keep me toasty warm, and when I got up to High Raise I really appreciated it. Obviously when I am setting out if the gradient is not too strenuous I have more clothing on, then as I start to warm up I’ll remove a layer or two depending on the wind. The worse thing is to get too sweaty as you ascend and then get the chill factor when hitting the wind. I walked into the village and passed the famous gingerbread shop, and resisted the café at the corner of Easedale Road – which was easy enough – it wasn’t open. I walked up the quiet road, up a steep little bank and then past a row of houses at Goody Point. There were some lovely late autumnal colours in some of the gardens, all set against a background of big fells atop steep sided valleys.

 Photobucket
Through the garden to Seat Sandal and Great Rigg

 Photobucket
Easedale Beck with Easedale tarn hidden above the beck in the distance

Photobucket
A fern attired beech tree above a mossy wall

 Photobucket
The path ahead gets steeper

I left the road as I met Easedale Beck, crossed by a stone bridge and then followed an old stony path. It was a little gloomy down in the valley, but peaceful listening to the babbling beck bubbling below – that’s enough b’s for today (although I did mutter rowlocks a couple of times when it got cold later on). The beck here follows an unnaturally straight line, no doubt guided by the farmers over the years. Plenty of the boulders have been used in making up the walling, and I passed by an interesting beech tree that was adorned with ferns growing out and around its trunk. I noticed that there are also a lot of strange shaped enclosures around, probably due to legacies left to the National Trust, while surrounding land remains in private hands. The ascent towards the end of the farmed valley is easy, and the rise of the fells begins with the waterfalls of Sourmilk Gill which draw the eye up towards the steep hillside below Easedale Tarn. The rocks below the tarn are volcanic and hard, resisting erosion over the ice ages. The path winds up alongside the waterfalls which are no doubt a popular spot for summer picnics – the sound of the water is very soothing – unless you need the loo! As I crested the waterfalls there was still a steady climb before the tarn comes into view, but it sits nicely in a bowl below the steep surrounding crags.

Photobucket
Sourmilk Gill – the outflow of Easedale Tarn

Photobucket
Looking back down to Grasmere

Photobucket
Easedale Tarn

The route took me around the south side of the water with Greathead Crag looming large beyond. I heard the roar of jet engines approaching up the valley and saw two sweeping behind the next valley. I took a picture but they always end up looking like a dot and nothing as spectacular as when they bank around the fellside. Ahead of me I could see the route climbing steeply up towards Eagle Crag and Belles Knot, so I peeled off a layer before the hard work began, and watched a couple of buzzards circling high along the crags. As I ascended I got an inkling of the weather to come and could see low cloud flowing down over the higher ground - and as I said earlier the law of averages states that for every 7 sunny walks, you will get persisted upon regally from above. I guess the moral of that is if the forecasts were that good we Brits wouldn’t have anything to talk about. The route got steeper up beyond the tarn, with boggy sections crossing small becks, but the delight of this walk came when I was clear of Belles Knott and up to the ridge of Blea Rigg. I could see Codale Tarn away to my right so I knew I was in the right place, and it is a good reference point. Away to my left the Langdale Pikes hove into view, with some bigger boys in the distance. It was interesting for me to get a good close look at Pavey Ark and get a perspective of how steep Jacks Rake really is. I haven’t been up there yet, and I doubt anyone else did today.

Photobucket
Up above the tarn you can clearly see all the moraines deposited around

Photobucket
Looking across to Pavey Ark and Harrison Stickle

Up on Blea Rigg the wind was blowing up a storm and when the rain/sleet came down it was a real stinger. So much was the force of the wind I had to hold my hand in front of my face for some protection, bracing I think you would call it. The view to the west looking down to Stickle Tarn kept me occupied as I made my way up the ridge to Sergeant Man, and I saw a couple of fell runners moving very quickly. I’m not surprised either as it had turned very cold in the wind, with the snow giving a gentle dusting to the higher fells. The strong northerly wind blew squalls along swiftly and gave me some good atmospheric pictures of Harrison Stickle and the Crinkle Crags beyond. Once I had made it up Blea Rigg to Sergeant Man I took some time to enjoy the limited views down to Grasmere and Windermere. There are lots of glacial features to be seen and they dominate the landscape giving a unique feel to the Lake District that makes it so special in the UK.

Photobucket
Stickle Tarn below, Crinkle Crags in the distance

Photobucket
The view down from Sergeant Man – a toad like landscape

Photobucket
Harrison Stickle with the Crinkle Crags and Bowfell beyond

Photobucket
It really was awfully windy..

Once I started towards High Raise the weather was harsh with snow/sleet straight into my face – ouch. The path up to High Raise summit is indistinct, and I passed a small tarn towards the top. The wind was now so strong that I could barely stand still or hold the camera still, but the ground was not too bad – it was 2 steps forward, 1 back or sideways. I had my usual slice of luck as I got to the summit cairn with the clouds lifting to reveal views north to the Scottish hills beyond the Solway Firth (there’s a lot of beyond today), Helvellyn was away to the west with a light dusting of snow. The wind was so strong and the chill factor must have been below zero. I wanted to stop for a bite but I ended up just stuffing my bun in my face and not hanging around the shelter.

Photobucket
Looking north from High Raise trig point – Scotland in the distance

Photobucket
The old fence line down to the crossroads at Greenup Edge

I checked my bearings and made my way east to pick up the path going north to meet up with Whitestones and Greenup Edge, loosing ground as I swung around towards the correct ridge to lead me to Helm Crag. It was slippery icy conditions underfoot, but at least it firmed up the boggy bits. The crossroads of the paths were easily spotted and I dropped down into a little valley beneath, crossing several becks carefully before climbing up to Brownriggs Moss. Another fell runner passed me by with his arms outstretched making rapid headway down the hillside, and he showed me the way around towards my next objective. I saw a few runners wearing ‘sponsored by the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel’ T-shirts – hmmmmm - a T-shirt and a few pints for hurtling up and down fells – I think I’ll buy my own. The long ridge down to Helm Crag looks an easy enough descent from on high, but there were plenty of up and downs, and a few small scrambles to keep me interested. There was also the matter of the wind – it was still fierce, but at least the sun was shining and the rain had stopped.

Photobucket
Helvellyn with his head in the clouds across the valleys

Photobucket
The path down and across to Brownriggs Moss

Photobucket
Brownriggs Moss

The wind was whipping up the surface of the unnamed tarn on Brownriggs Moss, and you could have held the UK mouse surfing championships – the waves were that good - mind you there wouldn’t have been many competitors. I worked my way along at a 45deg angle, leaning into the wind at my side, which was a bit awkward at times and didn’t make for rapid progress. I had occasional glimpses of Helvellyn beyond Steel Fell, and could also see the shapely Seat Sandal.

Photobucket
Looking back along the ridge to Calf Crags

Photobucket
Helvellyn with a light dusting of castor sugar

Photobucket
Down the ridge to Gibson Knott and Helm Crag, from just a Moment Crag

Photobucket
Helm Crag from Gibson Knott, Grasmere to the right side

The next point along the ridge was Gibson Knott and once I was up there I had a good view of the final climb to Helm Crag, with the Howitzer prominent on its peak. At last I had some easy walking on a gentle path alongside Gibson Knott and down towards Bracken Hause. It was a delight here to pause and take in a retrospective view of the route taken earlier. It is always good to get a proper appreciation of the effort you made to gain the higher ground – as in ‘did I really go up there?’ – I often think to myself ‘yes Zippy you did hahaha.’. I basked (not baked) in the late afternoon sunshine, picking out various features in the landscape that came into view. Then I had the final stomp up to the summit of Helm Crag. I spent some time enjoying the top and as Wainwright said ‘The summit is altogether a rather weird and fantastic place, well worth not merely a visit but a detailed and leisurely exploration’. There are two prominent outcrops known as the ‘Lion and Lamb’ and the ‘Howitzer’. The true peak of Helm Crag would be up on top of one of the big stones, but unless you’re a mountaineer don’t try it.

Photobucket
Looking back up the ridge with Far Easedale to the left and Greenburn to the right

Photobucket
I think this one is the Howitzer

Photobucket
..and this one the Lion and Lamb

Photobucket
The end is nigh, looking down from the end of Helm Crag over Grasmere

Photobucket
Today’s route across the valley

Photobucket
A final look back from close to Grasmere

I saw another fell runner hurtling down the slopes, arms outstretched for balance – mincing down the fell! It was still cold and windy so I followed the runner down the well worn paths which zigzag down off the crags, passing some Holly trees laden with red berries, and ending up in the woods at Lancrigg. This must have been an old estate some time ago as there are remnants of paths and moss covered ornamental ponds. I couldn’t find my way out here, as the path looked to cross over some gardens in front of a house. I wasn’t sure so rather than disturb someone’s peaceful view, I climbed a gate into the nearest field and crossed over to a track. I did disturb some deer on my way through, so obviously it wasn’t an oft used way. My route returned me back down the Easedale Road, into Grasmere and I ended the day next to the church. The village was busy with day trippers taking tea and scones, no doubt after visiting Dove Cottage – Wordsworth’s old place. It was a good walk today, and I was cold but satisfied. A fell runner once told me that they run down hill on their toes, and they call it point running. Well I walk on the balls of my feet, but I still call it walking – and it’s brilliant in all weathers.

Photobucket
My new windproof gear, although a farmer accused me of rustling… 

Where now:                                                Home        :        Day Walks Menu        :       Lake District Menu