Rambling Pete

Ooh what a hot day followed by an evening meal at the hotel which didn’t have any vegetables. Lovely. I woke to blue skies and white bread for breakfast – not a slice of the healthy stuff around. But it was a good breakfast, a trifle warm with the log burner glowing but it set me up for the day. I declined the offer of some sandwiches as I could get something en-route, so the landlady sent me packing with some Barra Brith – lovely Welsh fruit malt loaf type of thing – very nice.

My B&B was north of Benllech and I rejoined the coastal path after a trek down through a monster caravan site, that by the look of the fields is going to be ever expanding for a while to come. But it was peaceful once I hit the beach at Borth-Wen, with just a few dog walkers out and about. I negotiated my way around some big boulders beneath the limestone cliffs and along the first of many bays today. I passed over from the Carboniferous Limestone to the Devonian Sandstones today and the coastal scenery reflected this a little. The gorse was splendidly yellow today in the bright sun, and it was a pleasant stroll along the headland to Moelfre, passing more caravans perched on the hillside, so I just looked the other way out to sea for a better view. A couple of locals were trying their hand at fishing off the rock slabs just before I entered the village – looked like they were spending more time sun bathing though.

I did a circuit of a sleepy Moelfre looking for the small bakery (village shop) and thankfully they had some nice sandwiches to choose from and a bit of fresh fruit as beyond Moelfre there weren’t anymore fuelling stops. There’s plenty of work going on near the lifeboat station, with a crane towering above the town skyline, building a new lifeboat station to replace the old one. On my way out I passed a memorial plaque to all those who lost their lives on the Royal Clipper which sank off Moelfre, and a little further on is a modern sculpture representing the varied Geology of Anglesey. Quite interesting stuff along this part of the coast.

Once I’d passed by some more headland it was down to the beach once more at Traeth Lligwy. There is a cafe here but as I’d already filled up at Moelfre I carried on my walk around the headland and just before Dulas Bay the path turned in from the coast to walk around the estuary at Traeth Dulas. While it’s annoying to have to divert so far inland, a mile in and a mile back, it was also a delight to see the different scenery and savour the peace of the salt marsh and tidal flats. The route from Traeth Lligwy carried me uphill and long sheep pastures, with a view of Mynydd Bodafon adding some interest to the skyline, before a green lane took me down to the main road.

I avoided another pub – The Pilot Boat – by the skin of my teeth at Bodafon Isaf and carried on towards the Afon Goch estuary, which snakes across flat marsh towards the tidal flats. Over a small bridge and along the margins I soon came to the firm sands of Traeth Dulas and with the tide out it was a real pleasure to walk along the coast. I could see a couple of old wrecks ahead sitting out on the flats, one of them with its bow split open, looking for all the world that it wanted to devour me. I spent some time looking around here before another inland diversion took me away from the coast. I assume it’s another estate that doesn’t allow access to the coast as it was a mile uphill plod, passing the church at Dulas and some big gates and an estate lodge. After wandering a few lanes it was back into sheep pasture and all the way down again with the view of the offshore rocky island and tower of Ynys Dulas. The mountains of Snowdonia were a bit more distant and cloud covered, and Puffin Island, and the Great Orme were just about in view across the sea, although once again the distant views were misty. Once I’d rejoined the coast the route followed the cliffs rising and falling with them, some of them high and steep drops to the sea. The gorse was sweet smelling in the strong sunlight as I dropped down towards Point Lynas, where another lighthouse lives, and changing direction to walk west along the coast to Amlwch. The last few miles seemed to take forever and I’d forgotten that on a long walk the first ten miles feel like ten miles, while the next five miles feel like ten miles and the last mile feels like ten miles. I think that’s because as you near the end of the days journey you pay more attention to how far there is to go.

Along heathered moorlands I made my towards Amlwch passing by a holy well at Ffynnon Eilixn – it was dry as a bone – some info here

Down into Amlwch I anticipated seeing the old port and the stone work built in eighteenth century. The port has a long history associated with the copper from nearby Parys Mountain. Nowadays the port houses mostly yachts and a couple of fishing smacks, that all sit on the sand when the tide is out. There’s not much room for manoeuvre within the harbour walls, and I wouldn’t like to be heading out into rough seas from there.

Amlwch itself was a disappointment and I ambled through the town to find my accommodation for the night – I almost wished I hadn’t – it was the worst of the trip, but on the plus side it was cheap. Another fantastic day along the Anglesey Coastal Path. Two more days of dry weather to come.

Not a drop of rain to be had for the past week…