Rambling Pete

The Cumbria Way 2012

The weather looked ok but the low cloud was hanging down over the Coniston Fells. I didn’t stock up on a sandwich, as I wanted to stop over at one of the Langdale pubs – New Dungheon Ghyll or Old DG as both were about halfway of this long day, and would give my pegs a little rest. I started out wearing a fleece but soon discarded that as it was so warm – I walked in base layer all day and felt fine. No gloves needed for a second day, and I usually feel the cold in my fingers. I was quickly out of Coniston and soon on the up, across another slippery field thankfully i kept my feet. On my way uphill just outside of Coniston I passed by an old lime kiln, set on a slope - I think it was an old kiln, and there's plenty of limestone around here.
I started using Siri - a sort of dictation aid 'how can I help you thing' on my iPhone to dictate some notes and save some time at the end of the day when writing up the days journey. It produces some funny quotations, a bit akin to a Nigerian scam artist offering untold riches. Here’s an example – ‘Through a five bar gate came out on Togoland’ . But occasionally it produces some sensible quotes and acts as an aid memoir of the day, as my mind wanders away and sometimes I forget what’s gone on around me, but it's only good where I have a signal so I didn't use it much really. There was plenty of birdlife out and about again – today chaffinches mainly feeding on the sweet smelling Gorse (Siri says – I’m sweet smelling of course.) The way is very relaxing and as yesterday there is a great variety of tracks, field paths, old metalled tracks and stoney paths. Out of the trees the full extent of the low cloud was now revealed with no views over towards Wetherlam or the Tilberthwaite Fells, an area I had visited recently.  All the five bar gates were a very mossy green which is testament to the very damp winter we’ve had, and at the end of the day I had a very nice patina on my arms and hands.
Many trees are showing some life with buds fattening up, and plenty of snowbells carpeting the ground. There were also plenty of windblown trees down around the woods with one having fallen directly across the path, splattering a path gate. The route up to Tarn Hows was quite steep on a good path and I worked up a good sweat. The path passed by many coppiced trees and eventually the Tarn How’s lake comes into view. I could only imagine the views over to the fells of Tilberthwaite , very frustrating as I know how good they would look from here. Out of the woods I had some road walking to do that took me past Tarn Hows car park, with its solitary car – I didn’t meet anyone up here and when I reached the Tarn it was eerily quiet. It's usually very busy up here with families, with good disabled access on the laid path - great for wheelchairs. The low mist cloaked the area, and only the resident honking barnacle geese intruded on the silence. The weather forecast was right again and my head was well and truly up in the clouds, as it usually is. It was spooky up there but I was soon dropping down again now on a stony track to Oxen Fell. Crossing the main road and I was on a field path, followed by some nice tarmac on a back lane. Still no views but at least it was dry. Woodpeckers were busy pecking away making a big noise, a spring like sound to me and I half expected a cuckoo calling, it felt so warm. Many of the drystone walls have big boulders at their base and must have been rebuilt a few times over hundreds of years. Good paths took me all the way to Skelwith Bridge, avoiding the main road to Coniston. I looked at the time and decided it was too early to stop for tea and cake - lots of options for refreshments, but I didn’t have a lot of spare time to finish in daylight. Great Langdale Beck was beautifully clear and the way treks alongside until reaching Elterwater. Here it got a little busy with walkers doing a circuit from Skelwith Bridge to Elterwater and back. The paths have been renovated to enable disabled access, and it must be a joy on a clear day to see the Langdale Pikes. Along Elterwater the fields are soggy in the boggy floodplain so I stuck to the path all the way to Elterwater village.
I was very tempted by the tearoom here but I stuck to my guns heading for the Old Dungheon Ghyll. The path on from Elterwater is a delight, winding its way along the floodplain and then heading off towards Lingmoor Fell. At this point a hole in the cloud appeared above me and the sun shone and so did my grin. I did a bit of bargaining with the deity of good weather and requested some clear air for the climb up Stake Gill, plenty of time to organise that while I had lunch. I dropped back down from Lingmoor Fell and Side Pike to cross over the valley to the ODG. I was glad to sit down and ordered a shandy, glass of water and a ham sandwich. All were fantastic and barely touched the sides, and as I needed my water bottle topping up I had a chat with the chef for a little while. Once I’d finished there I continued on towards Mickelden, my favourite valley in the whole of Lakeland. I was surprised again to find myself alone, and my patch of blue sky was now walking along with me. The big fells of the Crinkly Crags, Pike of Blisco, and Bowfell were hidden, but the crinkles appeared now and again. I’ve only ever walked down the valley, but it’s a nice steady climb to the head of the valley. I stopped often to look up to the Pike of Stickle, another favourite of mine, and the mist was starting to clear the top. This meant that the climb up to and over Stake Pass would be clear. What a great result – the deity obviously likes rambling do-da. The ascent was steep enough but plodded on steadily aware that time was ticking on – no rush but I like to finish in daylight. Up on the top is yet another Langdale favourite, a veritable ‘basket of eggs’ set of moraine. All stacked up looking great in the sunshine, with a huge bank of cloud up to my left and right – ha ha. That made up for yesterday, and speeded me on across Langdale Common. As I approached the hause between Langdale and Langstrath it was another big smiley moment – the views down into Langstrath were superb, and even better was to come. The path down winds down the hillside steeply in a series of long loops which really took the sting out of the decent. But all good things come to an end and about 2/3 of the way down I was back on stony ground. It was like that all the way back to Rosthwaite, with a bit of fatigue taking its toll on the old knees. There’s a big old rockfall halfway down the valley called Blea Rocks – great to look at but tough on tired legs. After this it was simply sticking alongside the beck which gets bigger the further down the valley, where it meets up with Greenup Gill. The late afternoon sun faded as I did, but it was still light when I arrived at the Royal Oak Hotel, my stop for the night.
What a fantastic day, a real pleasure and proof if needed that low level is just as good as high level – especially as the cloud was so low in the morning.

 

early morning mist as I stepped out onto the high street in Coniston

 

not looking great for any views today - the Old Man is up there somewhere

out of Coniston the Cumbria Way climbs up the hillside to Back Guards plantation

the low cloud was low enough to obscure the higher peaks - looking back to Coniston

the Yewdale Fells were up to the left and Tarn How Woods ahead of me

it was across the fields and down to Low Yewdale - that's the Tilberthwaite road in the middle of picture

all uphill through Tarn How Woods

not much of a gate anymore - but I could squeeze by on the path

healthy air up here and signposts up to Tarn How

it was really quiet up here and you could have heard a pin drop. It's usually busy around Tarn Hows

a money tree besides the main path around the tarn

after the tarn it was all downhill to Oxen Fell High Cross and the main road. Thankfully there is a safe path that runs through the fields

the Cumbria Way takes a minor road away from the traffic that leads down to High Park

from High Park the route takes off to the west in a circuitous route via Skelwith Bridge. You could take a short cut via Little Langdale, but you may get stuck in the pub.

Skelwith Bridge and the River Brathay

the falls at Skelwith Force were flowing nicely, and quite impressive close up

past Elterwater the path is well made up for the many tourists doing the short round from Skelwith Bridge

crossing over Great Langdale Beck at Elterwater - the first of several crossings

through the slate spoil heaps on the south side of the beck

it was quite pleasant and an easy stroll through the backside of Elterwater

still no views to higher up the fells

Chapel Stile before crossing the beck once more

on the south side again and walking past the campsites, empty at the moment

an occasional glimpse of sunlight over Lingmoor Fell gave me some hope for later on - at least it was dry now

the view here normally is superb with the Langdale pikes up to the right - not today though. Oak Howe on the left.

where the path curls around the end of Lingmoor Fell

and down to Side House before crossing the valley to the Old Dungheon Ghyll pub

almost a view up to the Band and the Crinkle Crags

I let the clouds clear while I had lunch in the pub

a very welcome fire in the ODG - nice fayre as well

finally clearing, with a good view over to Side Pike with Pike of Blisco up to the right

on the way around to Mickelden with the Band to my left

the Pike of Stickle with it's great stone chute - the site of a stone age axe factory

heading towards the end of Mickelden with the big hills covered in cloud but clearing to my right. Stake Gill up to the right, and Rossett Gill up to the left

one of my favourite views in the Lake District is looking back down along Mickelden

the path up Stake Gill

and a big bank of cloud covering Bowfell et al

at the top of the Gill is this carved slab dated 1890 - a bit of quality graffiti

a great view ahead to Sergeants Crag with High Raise up to the right and Stonethwaite Fell up to the left

the view down into Langstrathh

and over on Glaramara the cloud rolled over the summits

I loved this snaking path down into the valley

plenty of water in Stake Beck

down in the Langstrath valley now and looking back up Stake Beck to my path from the top

sunless down in the valley and a 2 mile walk down beside Langstrath Beck

about halfway down is Blea Rock and a bit of up and down. Glaramara up to the right

the Langstrath Beck joins Greenup Gill to form Stonethwaite Beck at the end of the Langstrath valley

and it's another 1 1/2 miles to the Royal Oak

storm gates to stop too much debris flowing into the main beck

almost at Rosthwaite and looking back to Stonethwaite on the other side of the valley, with Eagle Crag beyond.

Where now:                                                Home        :        Long Walks Menu        :        Day Three >>