Rambling Pete

The Cumbria Way 2012

A wine addled night at Cafe Bar 26, which sounds exciting. In reality I spent the evening scoffing Tapas and cursing the intermittent phone signal. But it was better than the phone box in Grange as that didn’t even have a phone. I watched the weather forecast for Thursday and thought I’ve got more Jam than Hartleys (translated for my American viewer…I have more Jam than Hartleys) - that was typed too soon as the forecast wasn’t as stated.

Today is a change of aspect for the Cumbria Way as it moves into the northern fells, a step closer to the flatlands to Carlisle. Rounded hills akin to the Pennines or Horrible Howgills present themselves and I’m hoping it’s not too wet. I’ve been up this route before, so I knew that I was faced with a long steady ascent for a few hours, but was looking forward to taking in High Pike in the afternoon sunshine. Oh yes, my big blue halo will be following me around at some point in the day – how wrong can I be?
I set out from my digs after another fine breakfast and wound my way north through Keswick town, going along I had a bit more umph than yesterday. I rubbed in some Ibuprofen gel into the clackety knees hoping they’d see me through another day of pleasure.

I wandered down the High Street and then back up again, everyone busy setting up the market stalls around the old moot hall - a false start. Up through Keswick I walked down to the bridge and crossed the River Greta, with not many people around. I’ve walked bits of this route before so I knew that there was a little steep pull up the side of Latrigg – a bit of a burn first thing in the morning. Ahead was very low cloud on Skiddaw, a bit of a glum outlook for the high route, but my path around Lonscale Fell was just below the cloud base. Up the lane at the side of Latrigg I puffed away, but the gradient eases off and I was able to speed ahead a little as it winds up to the car park at Latrigg. I met a couple of people getting booted up to ascend Skiddaw – eternal optimists and the only people I met all day long. I was still undecided about the high route but would make my mind up at Skiddaw House, where the Cumbria Way splits into the high road and the low road. Beyond the Latrigg car park the going is easier, with a spot of sunshine down in the valley below, obviously the blue sky deity didn’t have their GPS turned on. The way turns into the Glenderaterra valley, high above the beck below. There is some rocky ground but generally it is a pleasant path with the gradient non too taxing. I could see my cards marked already and the low cloud looked like it was set for the day, although the forecast said it may clear later.  Around, below Lonscale Fell and then on around Burnt Horse (weird name for a fell) my camera finally gave up the ghost – guess what idiot forgot to pack the charger! So all photos for my website will be I-phone from now on – but they’re good enough as a reminder and guide for me. I was soon up at Skiddaw House, a bleak outlook and must be one of the YHA’s harder to access hostels. No life was seen within but a line of coal smoke was pouring from the chimney, heavy on the air. I made the decision to take the high route as I’ve seen much of the low route, and there was always a vague chance that the weather could clear later. It’s a 2 or 3 mile walk down the valley below mundane Mungrisdale Common, grass, heather and sheepfolds and of course mist – very eerie once more, the silence deafening. The path was in reasonable shape, but I wouldn’t choose to walk this way again unless the summits were clear. I stopped for lunch and then the next change of scenery was out of the valley to walk up Graingill Beck passing all the old mine tailings. There is a notice that Caldbeck Common is a SSSI (site of special scientific interest) due its old mine workings and anyone caught without a permit or causing damage may be liable to a fine of up to £20,000…..so I emptied out the sack of specimens. I passed by a sole Karrimor boot – in a sorry state and not a great advert for them, I didn’t see anyone hoping down the hillside. I was soon way up in the clouds along an ill defined path by the Gill, and plodded onwards and upwards to the top  of Great Lingy Fell. Here I encountered the climbers hut, and I had a text from Lonewalker this morning asking me to look in the journal for his entry of November 2005. But I think previous campers may have used it for a fire or a sheep ate it, because the new book dates to November 2011 - I made a little entry of my own for all the world to read. Inside was a sleeping platform, a tin of new potatoes, four candles, three gas canisters and a sleeping bag! It would be a good place to stop and let a storm pass through as it’s newly waterproofed with felting.

I couldn’t see much, but the motorway path is hard to miss and was soon on my way up to High Pike. Surprise, surprise – not Cilla but the summit completely covered in mist – harumph – that’s twice now. So off I trotted to the north end, and descended steeply down grassy slopes, trying not to wander too far offline. Behind me a cheeky blue spot appeared, but the mist continued to shroud the Pike. Walking down I passed through more old mine remnants, that chased Barytes veins into the hillside, but obviously too thin to be economic. Back down on low ground, the farmland takes over once more and that’s the end of the Lakeland Fells. So I cracked on down quiet lanes to Caldbeck and a very welcoming pint of Cumberland Ale. Once I’d unpacked my gear I realised that my phone and GPS charger was still plugged into the wall in Keswick……what a plonker. I’ll just have to have an extra pint and get the map and compass out.

setting up the market stalls around the old 'Moot Hall' in Keswick town centre

looking over to Latrigg the day looked promising apart from the distinctly low cloud base

I crossed over the busy main road via this bridge and then up a steady rise along the flank of Latrigg

the view over to the Derwent Fells, with Keswick to the left

up at the car park of Latrigg and that cloud doesn't look like it's going anywhere. Lonscale Fell ahead

the path diverges from the main Skiddaw tourist route

Latrigg bathing in a small patch of sunshine as I walk around the sides of Lonscale Fell

Tewet Tarn glinting in some sunshine across the vale of Keswick

gently ascending the Cumbria Way. Blencathra ahead, but the route turns left before then

Up and along the Glenderaterra valley - a fine path high above the valley floor

not great pictures from the I-phone. Looking back down the route. Lonscale Fell is up to the right

this gives a good idea of the gloomy weather

Skiddaw House YHA hostel appears out of the gloom

At Skiddaw House the route splits. Low road to the north and high road to the west

Not a whole lot to see. Mungrisdale Common is upto the right

more of the same as I walk down the valley

quite a wide well made track at times. Presumably for the shooting fraternity

eventually I turned into Grainsgill Beck

and up past the old mine tailings

the valley below leads out to Mosedale below Bowscale Fell

close to the top of the gill the path turns away towards north and Great Lingy Fell

mostly it's easy going, but a little rough in places

out of the mist the climbers hut on Great Lingy Fell

plates of Barytes - best not to take these away

up on High Pike yet again in the mist. There's a good view up here apparently

and according to this you'd need very good eyesight to see some of the places advertised

the track down off High Pike could be a little confusing as there are plenty of sheeptrods leading off the summit

my patch of blue sky was a little out of kilter today

heading north off the fells to the valley and Caldbeck

there are plenty of remnants, and earthworks from old mining activity - this one is an old 'leat' cut into the hillside to divert water

not so far to Caldbeck now

and the route becomes more grazed as I got lower down the hillside

off the open fells and back onto farm tracks and roads

looking back up to High Pike I was glad to see it hadn't totally cleared

a narrow lane leads to Caldbeck

some colourful cottages next to the village pub

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