Rambling Pete

The Cumbria Way 2012

The last day dawned with grey skies, but ended as it should with blue skies. An ok breakfast from the Oddfellow Arms and I was away by 8:30. A fairly brisk walk for me as the going was mainly flat. Many think this is an anti climax to this walk but I thought it was ok. I’ll deal with those thoughts at the end. I quite liked Caldbeck and had a Cumberland Ale or three last night – a pool match was on so it was busy enough. The landlord was a man of few words, but everyone else was ok.
The way today can be described as floodplain walking, with a few gentle undulations. Mind you as ever it’s easy to get temporarily misplaced through the woods. The initial route for a couple of miles follows the banks of the Cald Beck, before turning north for Carlisle Just before Sebergham.
The paths were muddy but thankfully not to treacherous due to the dry week I’ve had. It was pretty dark early on as I splodged along below a steep bank, the only obstacle being a fallen tree lying across the path. It was all pastoral today, following the riverbank for miles and miles. The muddy paths gave way to fields, with fresh yellow gorse, and sheep, lots of sheep – they all looked like they wanted something as well. Looking back to the fells they were still covered with mist, but that changed later on, alas a day too late.
I passed by a rickety look out tower, birds or fire-watch I’m not sure. I suppose you could kip in it at a pinch if you were desperate. A bit of forestry plantation followed which is never my favourite – it might have been different in another month as the wild garlic would be ready for flowering. Not many Bluebell shoots are pushing through, but plenty of snowdrop clumps are flowering away.
Once the way turns north at Dentonside Woods The path changes to metalled tracks and narrow lanes, a change from the splodge. There were quite a few trees down today, I guess its been a stormy winter, but there was no signs of anyone wanting to move them very fast. The weather started to get a little brighter towards the small hamlet of Sebergham and it was easy walking along farm tracks and lanes, with only the sheep for company across fields down to Bell Bridge – there’s a set of killer steps down on the north side of the bridge. Here the path joins the banks of the River Caldew – a bigger river and a bigger floodplain, and generally the way sticks to the ‘recent’ floodplain and occasionally rises up to the higher ancient floodplains. The river flows fast through these plains and is rapidly eroding its banks in certain places, perilously close to the path leaving earth overhangs for the unwary. You can see the big boulder beds below the topsoil, and there a few nesting holes of the House Martins that will arrive in spring. Plenty of bird life as well in the floodplain – flocks of gulls, and crows flying around in great circles. Plenty of buzzards quartering the trees, curlew and oyster catchers with their distinctive calls, and many small birds flitting in and out of the trees. I looked out for a flash of orange along the river banks hoping to see a kingfisher, and was eventually rewarded for my persistence – alas it was a piece of shopping bag, more flotsam in the countryside. Frustratingly I could see back to the fells I walked yesterday and their tops were clearing to leave a fine day out for some people I knew walking the northern fells. Across the river at Holm House, an isolated spot was a garden full of scrap cars – a bit of a bizarre sight, but I suppose they can only be seen when the trees are bare. Just before reaching the impressive Rose Castle the floodplain shows plenty of old scars of the meandering River Caldew. There’s some interesting buildings along the path with the best being Rose Castle with its distinctive pele tower – see here for some closer pictures. I’m glad I didn’t detour up the road for a nosey as it’s not open to the general riff raff. The way marches ever further north passing by some fine ridge and furrow, and leaving the Caldew until the village of Bridge End and Buckabank. Here the first signs of civilisation encroach on the senses as the way cuts past old mill buildings being used for plastic manufacture. I was walking behind a couple of pensioners and they were fair belting along, taking me until Dalston before passing them. My initial sight of Dalston was good over the village green, where a sign points out – ‘no dog fouling’, despite the common being used for cattle. Into Dalston it became a little busier as it was about lunchtime, and I popped into the bakery for a Cornish pasty to eat on the hoof – delicious it was. Then all my senses went jangling as I rounded the corner into a stream of school teenagers coming towards me, no doubt heading for the same bakery. What a racket and some very orange looking girls with lots of dyed hair and make up – none of the lads looked interested either.

Beyond Dalston the whole nature of the Cumbria Way changes and many people argue it should end there. I have to disagree as it’s really only the last mile into Carlisle that runs through the streets, although there is a bit of industrial noise along the way – humming machinery – but no noisier than some of the big farms. The difference is in the paths, with much laid tarmac running alongside the rail track, a golf course and under big pylons. The River Caldew is still with you and at Cummersdale works I crossed over to the other bank and onto a narrow muddy path. This is probably one of the worst stretches on a bad day, as it’s narrow and muddy, flanked by a fence one side and vegetation on the other. It was OK today though and I stayed on my feet. Carlisle’s suburbs were ever closer and a fine weir and old mill buildings would make a decent end point for the Cumbria Way, but I didn’t mind the last mile really. It’s an odd feeling tramping along with all the walking paraphernalia, when everyone else has normal gear on. I passed housing, then a council depot where four gents were contemplating digging a hole, passed a recycling centre, a gas storage tank, and made my way to the city centre and the railway station. The end of the Cumbria Way for me was platform 4, muddy boots smelling of sheep shit and a smile on my face. I’ll be writing up another post to let you know my thoughts on this trail – mostly all positive.

a dark morning, I passed the church in Caldbeck on my way out of the village

some stray trees to negotiate

some recent tree harvesting has left the way quite muddy in places

but higher up the slopes it was quite pleasant passing by the flowering gorse

still gloomy in the early morning light

 

I assume that this is a fire watch tower or is it for tweeters?

just about to enter plantation woods

and spat out the other end. From here it's mostly farm tracks

and very pleasant to walk on. Heading north now near Sebergham

lots of old barns around

fields just before Sebergham

the Cumbria Way heads north from near the church

passing through rich farmland

and wandering through gently undulating fields

quite steep these set of steps at Bell Bridge - at least there is a handrail

plenty of erosion of the river banks in places

clumps of snowdrops were a welcome sight

the Cumbria Way follows the banks of the River Caldew quite closely for a long way into Carlisle

plenty of river gravel and sandy banks for House Martins to nest

looking back to the HighPike - clear today

easy walking along the floodplain

Rose Castle and some old remnants of the course of the Caldew

the old castle looks very interesting but delapidated

Rose Bridge, under repair

some ridge and furrow in the fields and a backdrop of the Lake District

lots of sheep passing by Hawksdale

crossing over the river just before Dalston

the village common, grazed by cattle, but no dogs allowed to poo!

a shock to the senses as I walk through Dalston

and on well maintained tracks alongside the railway track

which stretches for a long way

crossing the Caldew at Cummersdale

just before Carlisle the path narrows to a dog walkers muddy splodge

a fine weir marks the outskirts of Carlisle and the last mile through the streets. It would be a good end point, but you still have to walk into the city anyway

passing the council depots and recycling plant

the end at the station, with some ghostly figures scurrying by. A fine long walk.

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