The Herriot's Way 2010

Day Three: 11th April

Weather: Dry, overcast with bright spells

Route: Keld to Reeth - 13.6miles

 

The day started with a good breakfast and a warm breeze out of Keld, wandering down through the small hamlet. A steep track took us down to a bridge over the Swale and some delightful little falls. This was the best day of four in my opinion due to the varied interest, although each day is quite distinct due to the character of the landscape and the associated land use. The falls were not very full but very photogenic and I spent a little time trying to capture the mood. I would imagine that this is a fine picnic spot in the summertime - very soporific this side stream off the Swale.

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 Early morning light at the start of Swaledale

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 the delightful falls that drop into the Swale

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a delightful picnic spot at the falls near Keld

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the main buildings at Crackpot Hall

We gradually ascended the valley side looking down on the narrows that the Swale had cut through the limestone, almost gorge like in places. We saw last nights companions happily singing down in the valley (the walk, not the song), amazing how sound travels up. The first ruins of the day appeared at Crackpot Hall, apparently an old shooting lodge and in later life a farm. It's in a great position high above the valley, but is very isolated. We dallied around the remains for a while then followed the track around to Swinnergill, a deepcut gorge with very narrow sides. A good path beneath the limestone crags took us towards the old lead mines and we could see a few walkers ahead resting up in the old buildings. Down in the valley an old bridge spanned the beck and I messed about trying to get a decent shot, but didn't, so we sat down at the old buildings above a small fall to gaze at the hillside. This was the beginning of the mine workings seen during the day, and there were many, many more to come. Suitably refreshed we continued up the valley above the mine, looked at a couple of unspectacular falls, and emerged at the head of the valley out onto open moorland. Not too much scenery up here, just miles of moor, and a metalled track for the shooters. This track led us up over the crest of the hill towards Lownathwaite lead mines. But before we reached the valley of desolation I couldn't believe my eyes, let alone my ears - there is a small pond next to the track, fenced off and absolutely heaving with frogs. The noise was incredible and I've never heard anything like it in the UK before. There was a great croaking coming from the pond with many males scrambling here and there looking for a partner. After watching this frog-fest for a little while and trying but failing to record it on my I-phone, the shooters road continues across the moors beyond a fenceline. As if to confirm this, many more Grouse started to popping up and lurking amongst the heather.

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 the mines at Swinner Gill

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 the bridge over Swinner Gill

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 one of the small falls walking up East Grain to the moor top

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looking back down East Grain to Swinner Gill

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a strange sky high above us

Our guide book alerted us to watch out for two stone cairns to lead us away from the track and swings the route over to Lownathwaite Mea and it's buildings. The land here was a patchwork quilt of managed moorland and a great big 'Hush' with masses of mining spoil. This is Gunnerside and what a sight and site it is. The obvious path dips in and out of the hush, which becomes increasingly steep as it dips down to the valley below. The path veered around the hillside to the north following the contours of the valley, and suddenly there before us were the wonderful old mine buildings that included the Blakethwaite peat drying house, an old lime kiln and other miscellaneous works.  The lime kiln in particular seems to meld into the crags - lob stone in at the top and dig lime out at the bottom. Across the Gill is the peat drying house, and there's meant to be a slide for peat carrying but I couldn't see it - probably staring at the wrong space. The path went steeply down the hillside towards the buildings in a zigzag heading for the stone slab that crosses the water. What a superb spot for lunch, except that the path immediately afterwards takes you steeply uphill - so it was climb first and lunch second. There is an alternative route to take you further up the valley and loop back on a metalled track, but that adds a little distance you may regret at the days end.

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 frog city - ribbit

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 North Hush near Gunnerside

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 Looking down on the Braithwaite peat drying store

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the stone slab over Gunnerside Gill

We had lunch while being spied upon by a Grouse from his heather cover, he'd do well to keep his head down later in the year. I anticipated the mine-worked landscape to come our way as we had a spot to eat and stared back across the valley to a distant smoke plume - the pyromaniac was still at work. A gentle walk up a narrow path through the heather bought us out onto a stony track away to the East. It wasn't long now before the landscape became a mix of stony mining debris and heather moorland. It's a very big change of scenery and evidence of the damage we can do if we don't give a dam - though they did give a dam, otherwise we wouldn't have the Hushes. Apparently there are some 20-odd miles of tunnels beneath these moors and the spoil had to go somewhere, and that somewhere is spread out on the high moors. Depending on the lead content of the spoil heaps some re-vegetation will take place, eventually and that may be a long time yet. The route winds down the valley on an easy track through acres of gravel and stone rubble, passing by an old stone crusher to the left of the path. It's very quiet along here and it would be easy to stride out at a good pace if you were in a rush - we've been in a Hush but never in a rush. A strange landscape and a bit unsettling to walk between vast waste for miles, or what felt like miles. When we happened upon a line of well made shooting butts, they almost looked at home in this barren scene.

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buildings and lime kiln at Lownathwaite

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 looking back to a patchwork of heather beyond Swinner Gill

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on top of the moors and it's spoilt by spoil

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looking down the valley to the Old Gang Smelt Mill

At the site of the Old Gang Mines I had a pick over some tailings beside the track, but couldn't really find much - the odd bit of Galena in Quartz and the glisten of some fools Gold. A look at the map provides plenty of strange names used by the miners to label the area. Onwards and downwards we wandered across level house bridge, and in the warmth of the valley we were glad to have bought plenty of juice with us to keep hydrated. It was nice to have the weather I ordered as well - it really is the best time to walk in the UK is spring - April, May and sometimes June. Lower down the valley the mine spoil receded a little, and occasionally there was a track to the left or right but we resisted all temptation to diverge from the guidebook. Mrs RP did read ahead a little too fast in places but in general we managed ok. We could see a group of 4 walkers ahead of us now and again and we eventually caught up with them at the Old Gang Smelting Mill, just past the old peat store that looks like a giant toast-rack to the left. There are signs warning you to stay safe, but this site just begs to be explored. There are many facets to the old buildings and you can see the flues up the side of the hill to vent the noxious fumes away from the smelter. I found an old kiln brick which showed the effects of the heat and molten lead on it. It was a superb interlude and I felt very refreshed, but not sure about MrsRP, it was a bit warm for her. You can't miss this spot as a great big chimney marks the site - it looked good against a great big blue sky.

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 the peat drying building up to the left

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 approaching the Old Gang smelt mill

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the old gang smelting mill

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the flue from the mill high up on the hillside

Although today wasn't too strenuous, I can't emphasis enough to take a good stock of water - it's heavy at first but you won't regret it. I have a 'Water Tap' filter but didn't use it even though Mill Gill was babbling happily away alongside us now. The track continued down the valley until meeting the road at Surrender Bridge, where a few cars were parked, their occupants mooching around another old smelt mill. Further up the valley side is the vent for the fumes for the smelter, quite a way from the mill. The information board here tells you everything you need to know. Ahead of us was more pleasant walking across peaty moors, with a hint of fresh foliage in the patchwork - it's been very dry and things are not exactly rushing into bloom. We crossed over a steep little valley at Bleaberry Gill, but the pain didn't last long and a short burst down and up saw us back on the level springy turf. It was really pleasant now on the springy turf  and an easy stroll down to the next landmark of a house called Nova Scotia.

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 the smelting mill at Old Gang

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 one of the old smelter lining bricks

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 another smelt mill at Surrender Bridge

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the moors after Surrender Bridge

At this point we were meant to veer off to the right downhill but we misread the instructions and ended up walking down the driveway of the house. Here we met the most bizarre sight of the trip - a hutch with half a dozen Jackdaws in and they were making a right old racket as well. Who knows what purpose they served but it was a little sinister. So retracing our steps we went back up the drive and headed downhill to the woods which looked resplendent in fresh lime green foliage.Across the valley we could see a good portion of tomorrows route along the top of the moor high above Swaledale. Through the woods we spied the splendid residence of Thierswood Hall before being lost to view behind a neatly trimmed conifer hedge. My thoughts turned to my feet as we walked down the lane towards Heaulagh - stony paths are not good for our soles.

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 the view down from the Nova Scotia House - tomorrows route across the valley

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 x marks the spot near Heaulagh

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 the River Swale near Reeth

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At yet another field barn we turned left into a field towards the next stile and passed a pair of trees in a wall that had grown into an X. Into the small hamlet another neat and tidy place, looked like they would give you some water if you wanted. We were on the homeward stretch now towards Reeth. Crossing the main road and down the fields towards the Swale. Here was a set of large stepping stones across the river and on the other side was a lad about to show off to his girlfriend by riding across. I got the camera out ready to snap the pending splash, but alas the local bobby interrupted him with a 'now then, now then, what's all this sonny?'. I made that bit up he was looking for a pair of young poachers - 'one of them's got ginger hair' - not the best disguise then. It was pleasnat down by the river and the clear sky to the west gave a hint of the weather to come tomorrow. Closer to Reeth the path stepped up from the floodplain to a higher river terrace, through more stiles. We passed and chatted with a man with a great combover - it was so bad it was good. I didn't get a picture because I'm not that rude - actually I couldn't get the camera ready in time. Then it was the dog walking hour just after 4pm with a good variety paraded along. We were soon into Reeth village and out onto the green - a great open space, surrounded by houses. It must get packed out in summertime and on holidays, as it's a very attractive sort of place. I knew our B&B was a little way uphill to the north of the village square but it wasn't so bad and we were soon sat down in the conservatory having tea and cake - entertained by one of the owners Les, the 100mile a day biker (we know because he told us several times over). All in all a fantastic days walking and couldn't be bettered....apart from when the meadows are in full bloom.

 

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