The Herriot's Way 2010
Day Three: 11th April
Weather: Dry, overcast with bright spells
Route: Keld to Reeth - 13.6miles
The day started with a good breakfast and a warm breeze out of Keld, wandering down through the small hamlet. A steep track took us down to a bridge over the Swale and some delightful little falls. This was the best day of four in my opinion due to the varied interest, although each day is quite distinct due to the character of the landscape and the associated land use. The falls were not very full but very photogenic and I spent a little time trying to capture the mood. I would imagine that this is a fine picnic spot in the summertime - very soporific this side stream off the Swale.
a delightful picnic spot at the falls near
Keld
the main buildings at Crackpot Hall
We gradually ascended the valley side looking down on the
narrows that the Swale had cut through the limestone, almost
gorge like in places. We saw last nights companions happily
singing down in the valley (the walk, not the song), amazing
how sound travels up. The first ruins of the day appeared at
Crackpot Hall, apparently an old shooting lodge and in later
life a farm. It's in a great position high above the valley,
but is very isolated. We dallied around the remains for a
while then followed the track around to Swinnergill, a
deepcut gorge with very narrow sides. A good path beneath
the limestone crags took us towards the old lead mines and
we could see a few walkers ahead resting up in the old
buildings. Down in the valley an old bridge spanned the beck
and I messed about trying to get a decent shot, but didn't,
so we sat down at the old buildings above a small fall to
gaze at the hillside. This was the beginning of the mine
workings seen during the day, and there were many, many more
to come. Suitably refreshed we continued up the valley above
the mine, looked at a couple of unspectacular falls, and
emerged at the head of the valley out onto open moorland.
Not too much scenery up here, just miles of moor, and a
metalled track for the shooters. This track led us up over
the crest of the hill towards Lownathwaite lead mines. But
before we reached the valley of desolation I couldn't
believe my eyes, let alone my ears - there is a small pond
next to the track, fenced off and absolutely heaving with
frogs. The noise was incredible and I've never heard
anything like it in the UK before. There was a great
croaking coming from the pond with many males scrambling
here and there looking for a partner. After watching this
frog-fest for a little while and trying but failing to
record it on my I-phone, the shooters road continues across
the moors beyond a fenceline. As if to confirm this, many
more Grouse started to popping up and lurking amongst the
heather.
looking back down East Grain to
Swinner Gill
a strange sky high above us
Our guide book alerted us to watch out for two stone cairns
to lead us away from the track and swings the route over to
Lownathwaite Mea and it's buildings. The land here was a
patchwork quilt of managed moorland and a great big 'Hush'
with masses of mining spoil. This is Gunnerside and what a
sight and site it is. The obvious path dips in and out of
the hush, which becomes increasingly steep as it dips down
to the valley below. The path veered around the hillside to
the north following the contours of the valley, and suddenly
there before us were the wonderful old mine buildings that
included the Blakethwaite peat drying house, an old lime
kiln and other miscellaneous works. The lime kiln in
particular seems to meld into the crags - lob stone in at
the top and dig lime out at the bottom. Across the Gill is
the peat drying house, and there's meant to be a slide for
peat carrying but I couldn't see it - probably staring at
the wrong space. The path went steeply down the hillside
towards the buildings in a zigzag heading for the stone slab
that crosses the water. What a superb spot for lunch, except
that the path immediately afterwards takes you steeply
uphill - so it was climb first and lunch second. There is an
alternative route to take you further up the valley and loop
back on a metalled track, but that adds a little distance
you may regret at the days end.
the stone slab over Gunnerside Gill
We had lunch while being spied upon by a Grouse from his
heather cover, he'd do well to keep his head down later in
the year. I anticipated the mine-worked landscape to come
our way as we had a spot to eat and stared back across the
valley to a distant smoke plume - the pyromaniac was still
at work. A gentle walk up a narrow path through the heather
bought us out onto a stony track away to the East. It wasn't
long now before the landscape became a mix of stony mining
debris and heather moorland. It's a very big change of
scenery and evidence of the damage we can do if we don't
give a dam - though they did give a dam, otherwise we
wouldn't have the Hushes. Apparently there are some 20-odd
miles of tunnels beneath these moors and the spoil had to go
somewhere, and that somewhere is spread out on the high
moors. Depending on the lead content of the spoil heaps some
re-vegetation will take place, eventually and that may be a
long time yet. The route winds down the valley on an easy
track through acres of gravel and stone rubble, passing by
an old stone crusher to the left of the path. It's very
quiet along here and it would be easy to stride out at a
good pace if you were in a rush - we've been in a Hush but
never in a rush. A strange landscape and a bit unsettling to
walk between vast waste for miles, or what felt like miles.
When we happened upon a line of well made shooting butts,
they almost looked at home in this barren scene.
looking down the valley to the Old Gang Smelt Mill
At the site of the Old Gang Mines I had a pick over some
tailings beside the track, but couldn't really find much -
the odd bit of Galena in Quartz and the glisten of some
fools Gold. A look at the map provides plenty of strange
names used by the miners to label the area. Onwards and
downwards we wandered across level house bridge, and in the
warmth of the valley we were glad to have bought plenty of
juice with us to keep hydrated. It was nice to have the
weather I ordered as well - it really is the best time to
walk in the UK is spring - April, May and sometimes June.
Lower down the valley the mine spoil receded a little, and
occasionally there was a track to the left or right but we
resisted all temptation to diverge from the guidebook. Mrs
RP did read ahead a little too fast in places but in general
we managed ok. We could see a group of 4 walkers ahead of us
now and again and we eventually caught up with them at the
Old Gang Smelting Mill, just past the old peat store that
looks like a giant toast-rack to the left. There are signs
warning you to stay safe, but this site just begs to be
explored. There are many facets to the old buildings and you
can see the flues up the side of the hill to vent the
noxious fumes away from the smelter. I found an old kiln
brick which showed the effects of the heat and molten lead
on it. It was a superb interlude and I felt very refreshed,
but not sure about MrsRP, it was a bit warm for her. You
can't miss this spot as a great big chimney marks the site -
it looked good against a great big blue sky.
the flue from the mill high up on the hillside
Although today wasn't too strenuous, I can't emphasis enough
to take a good stock of water - it's heavy at first but you
won't regret it. I have a 'Water Tap' filter but didn't use
it even though Mill Gill was babbling happily away alongside
us now. The track continued down the valley until meeting
the road at Surrender Bridge, where a few cars were parked,
their occupants mooching around another old smelt mill.
Further up the valley side is the vent for the fumes for the
smelter, quite a way from the mill. The information board
here tells you everything you need to know. Ahead of us was
more pleasant walking across peaty moors, with a hint of
fresh foliage in the patchwork - it's been very dry and
things are not exactly rushing into bloom. We crossed over a
steep little valley at Bleaberry Gill, but the pain didn't
last long and a short burst down and up saw us back on the
level springy turf. It was really pleasant now on the
springy turf and an easy stroll down to the next
landmark of a house called Nova Scotia.
the moors after Surrender Bridge
At this point we were meant to veer off to the right
downhill but we misread the instructions and ended up
walking down the driveway of the house. Here we met the most
bizarre sight of the trip - a hutch with half a dozen
Jackdaws in and they were making a right old racket as well.
Who knows what purpose they served but it was a little
sinister. So retracing our steps we went back up the drive
and headed downhill to the woods which looked resplendent in
fresh lime green foliage.Across the valley we could see a
good portion of tomorrows route along the top of the moor
high above Swaledale. Through the woods we spied the
splendid residence of Thierswood Hall before being lost to
view behind a neatly trimmed conifer hedge. My thoughts
turned to my feet as we walked down the lane towards
Heaulagh - stony paths are not good for our soles.
At yet another field barn we turned left into a field
towards the next stile and passed a pair of trees in a wall
that had grown into an X. Into the small hamlet another neat
and tidy place, looked like they would give you some water
if you wanted. We were on the homeward stretch now towards
Reeth. Crossing the main road and down the fields towards
the Swale. Here was a set of large stepping stones across
the river and on the other side was a lad about to show off
to his girlfriend by riding across. I got the camera out
ready to snap the pending splash, but alas the local bobby
interrupted him with a 'now then, now then, what's all this
sonny?'. I made that bit up he was looking for a pair of
young poachers - 'one of them's got ginger hair' - not the
best disguise then. It was pleasnat down by the river and
the clear sky to the west gave a hint of the weather to come
tomorrow. Closer to Reeth the path stepped up from the
floodplain to a higher river terrace, through more stiles.
We passed and chatted with a man with a great combover - it
was so bad it was good. I didn't get a picture because I'm
not that rude - actually I couldn't get the camera ready in
time. Then it was the dog walking hour just after 4pm with a
good variety paraded along. We were soon into Reeth village
and out onto the green - a great open space, surrounded by
houses. It must get packed out in summertime and on
holidays, as it's a very attractive sort of place. I knew
our B&B was a little way uphill to the north of the village
square but it wasn't so bad and we were soon sat down in the
conservatory having tea and cake - entertained by one of the
owners Les, the 100mile a day biker (we know because he told
us several times over). All in all a fantastic days walking
and couldn't be bettered....apart from when the meadows are
in full bloom.