A long walk on the Isle of Skye 2012
Day Three: 10th May
Weather: Starting clear, then turning to snow on high ground and persistent rain lower down
Route: Torrin to Elgol - 10.7 miles with 4200ft of ascent
Today was my day as the route I chose to walk differs significantly from the original. Forgotten is the tough pathless trek from day two and remembered is the hill I have to climb. Hill?- proper mountain I should say, and well worth the epithet. I depart from Patersons route that heads north to give me an extra day of travel by veering south towards Elgol, walking around the head of Loch Slapin. I have two alternative routes pending a decision as I pass the car park for Blaven (Bla Bheinn) – low cloud and it’s sticking to the coast from Kilmarie, but clear and it’s up and weigh hey, but in my mind I already knew the decision was taken.
Anyway I was dropped off at yesterday’s end point at Camas Malag
beach, a short walk away from Torrin. Normally I would start and
end at a B&B stop, but yesterday I was dead beat and ground
to a halt at the beach. My legs felt
ok at the start of the day even though day three on a long walk
can be a bit sluggish, not in a slimy way. There’s something
about being next to the coast first thing in the morning, maybe the
air is fresher around me, and quite invigorating. From the beach I headed over a
headland, found a nice gate to pass through and was in Torrin
within a short time. There aren't any paths marked out on the OS
maps, but it was quite easy to skirt around the coast, hop over
a fence and then find a gate to pass through and up to a track.
That took me up through many villas and up to the main road for
a stroll through Torrin. The owner of the Blue Shed cafe was
stood outside
but it was far to early to be stopping for a cuppa. After a stroll through
the houses of this small hamlet I was soon out on the road that
skirts Loch Slapin and continues on to Elgol. In my face was the
black mass of Bla Beinn (Blaven), looking very inviting and very
menacing at the same time – but that’s only because the route up
is over to the left and out of sight, beyond the big scree
slopes that were facing me.
The tide was in and the loch waters a little windswept, with a
flock of different songbirds, waders, gulls etc feeding along
the shore. It’s been great for birdlife so far, there’s so many
different types I’ve lost count, a brilliant place to come and
stare. Stand still for long enough and you will soon be looking
at a few different species. The road was pleasant to walk along, peaceful except for
the odd car, and they were always courteous and slowed down as
they passed by. I think I’d already made up my mind where I was
going today and the cloud cover wasn’t going to put me off. As I
rounded the head of the loch I could see the woods that marked
the start of the route and knew I had to cut up to the right
before the bridge over the river. At this point Patersons route
heads north up and over the mountains to Glen Sligachan, but I
definitely prefer my route. I followed the ‘Walk Highlands
‘ route up to Blaven, staying right of the waterfalls of Allt na
Dunaiche, a deeply cut ravine with dense birch growth up the
sides, so dense I couldn't get a good shot of the falls. After crossing the river at the road the path takes me up
at a steady incline, across the moor, through a couple of deer
gates where I could look down on the steep wooded gorge, with
the fresh leaves making it look quite verdant. The water is
crystal clear and very inviting, and a little bit further on I could
gaze down into another rocky chasm cut deeply by the Allt na
Dunaiche. A mile upstream and it was time to cross over to the
other side, and make my way up towards the climb up to Coire
Uaigneich, and by the time I was up there I felt reasonably
fresh – not bad for an old fart. I passed by two Germans and
thought to myself – ‘I have a micro fleece towel in my pack,
must get up there first to lay it out’ – no chance of a sunbed
today though. I pointed out the route to them and they followed
me for a while before calling it quits. So it was me and the
mountain and as I got up I had to watch out I didn’t venture too
far into the Coire even though it was tempting, as the route
cuts up sharply right away from the stony path. The main path
leads to scree slopes below the south summit of Blaven.
No cairns mark the divergence of the route, I just had to
look up and consult the GPS now and again. But Ron from the B&B
had advised that once on the path you couldn’t really go wrong.
That’s true enough and if you’re ever up this way and can’t see
the path ahead then look again. It was a little harder work from
now on as the gradient got steeper – walking up a Munro from sea
level is not easy at the best of times, so I stopped often for
the views. Plenty of zigzagging up on a wide lose scree slope.
There’s one or two small scrambles but they are very short, and
eventually I came out onto firmer ground which helped me stand
upright a little more. Over on
my right were some spectacular stone gullies with massive black
buttresses on either side dropping right down to the coire far
below – jaw droppingly brilliant. I knew I would lose the views
as I got higher, but enjoyed looking down over Loch Slapin to
Torrin, and the peninsula I had walked around from Ord. it
looked a long way from up here even though it was now tiny. I
continued up the stony gully which is the steepest and loosest
part of the climb. Near the top of the scree the path heads on
better ground and leads over to the edge of Bla Bheinn’s eastern
cliffs, giving cracking views, but with a gusty wind I stayed
back from the abyss. From here the way was well defined
continuing up the slope to the left at a steady ascent with
spectacular views in places between the great buttresses, much
loved by rock climbers.
Further on is a cairn and views across to the rock peak of Clach
Glas. As I gained height the ground became covered with boulders
but I could still see the well trodden route showing up as a
yellowish path across the darker stone. Ahead I could see
another small scramble was required with a choice of three ways.
I stuck to the middle line and was soon up and over leaving me
with a short walk to the north summit trig point. By this time
the weather had turned decidedly inclement, with snow flurries
coming and going with a very chill blustery wind. Unfortunately
the spectacular view down over Glen Sligachan wasn’t going to
appear and if anything it was getting worse. So I decided to
walked over quickly to the south summit via the ledge traverse –
another short scramble on a narrow ledge, carefully avoiding
falling off as this would hurt a little. Bla Bheinn (the Blue
Mountain) is 928 metres high, making it the only Munro on Skye
that is not part of the Cuillin Ridge.
I didn’t hang about and quickly started out on my route down the
south ridge knowing it would probably take me as long going down
as climbing up. The rain had set in for the duration now, but
wasn’t heavy enough to cause discomfort, and once I’d lost some
elevation I started to get some views of my route ahead and
along the coast to Elgol. I stopped for a quick bite, more like
a quick Hoover really and then continued the long descent down
the south ridge – a fine route if I may say so. There is one
rocky scramble down which is ok and towards the lower slopes the
path turns left down a grassy gully. I spotted a likely looking
small ridge that cut across the boggy slopes below and cuts away
from the main path up to Kilmarie. I didn’t want extra mileage
now as my legs were feeling the strain of yesterday and I still
had four miles to go. Everywhere was now looking misty and
Camasunary Bay didn’t have the charm it has on a sunny day – the
house here is getting a new roof – I’d love to rent that out
sometime. I walked the coastal path to Elgol last year and knew
there was some precarious stretches to come – not a path to take
an elderly relative on, unless you want your inheritance a
little earlier
than expected. It’s ok for most of the way but towards the first
bay at Cladach a Ghlinne, the path is about 150ft
above the rocky shore, little more than a ft wide, and about a
ft from the edge! – tread warily is my advice, but as long as
you’re sure footed it’s ok. On a fine day I would have been
looking out across the sea to various islands such as Soay and
Rhum, but though today has been more than fine the same couldn’t
be said for the weather. I paused now and then to enjoy the view
back to the Cuillins, very enjoyable whatever the weather. Soon
enough the day was finished as I arrived at Elgol, looking down
over the boats moored up at buoys, ready for a trip tomorrow.
What an exhilarating day, tiring yes but what great fun. I found
I’d run out of time to update the blog as I had an urgent date
with a bottle of wine and some squat lobsters at the
Coruisk
House restaurant – wow they were delicious.
around the headland below Torrin - I think the gladiators had beaten me to it
Up the road to Torrin with the shapely peaks of Beinn Dearg Mhor and Beinn Dearg Bheag ahead
on the road to Torrin. Blaven doesn't look too cloudy yet
very peaceful down through the village
the road around the loch to Blaven on the left
it's more picturesque with the tide out, and it was a bit nippy
making my way along the road
looking down Loch Slapin from the head of the Loch
Patersons route went north from the road to Bealach na Beiste next to Garbh Bheinn
the path cuts across the heather and is clear to see from the road
the first falls of the Allt na Dunaiche
Blaven ahead but no sign of the route up yet
looking back to Torrin the start of the day on the other side of Loch Slapin
getting higher, the second falls - quite dry really
I crossed the river soon after the falls then the path veers left up to Coire Uaigneich
the path up Coire Uaigneich is loose rubble - glacial till really
it's a well worn path up here
the path turns sharp right up the slope just adjacent to the bluff on the right
looking back over An Stac and the small Loch Fionna-choire
some fellow walkers gave scale to the surrounds of Fionna-choire
the path is clear to follow up over loose scree
there are some mighty gullies close to the edge. Looking down on An Stac. Torrin now far below
up above the scree the path is easier, but the scenery still very impressive
looking over to Clach Glas - an impressive rock buttress with some impressive rock clefts!
Garbh Bheinn, Belig, and Glas Bheinn Mhor, with Scalpay in the background, in front of Raasay, and the mainland in the distance
more gullies towards the summit area
still just below the cloudbase before the snow started
a simple scramble ahead awaits across the boulders
Pointy Marsco reflected on Blaven in a pointy crag
higher and higher, you can see the road around the loch, and the river I followed up
a simple scramble up the gully ahead
led me up to a simple walk to the summit - great views
great views and a very chill wind, with hoar frost on the ground
nearly up on the summit before the weather beats me up
so frustrating not to be able to see Glen Sligachan
looking across to the South summit from the north summit
so much to see if only it was clear
and the snow started to sting a little - that's Loch an Athain down in the valley. I'm at 3011ft, the loch at 118ft
there's a choice of routes to cross to the south peak - the ledge ahead or down left and scramble up a chimney. The ledge is ok
looking back to the north peak - too cold to hang about
the remainder of my route laid out before me, down the south ridge of Blaven
down below the cloudbase momentarily and I nearly see all of Glen Sligachan
looking back up the south ridge of Blaven
a panorama of Sgurr na Stri to the left, Glen Sligachan and Marsco to the right
it was steep enough on the way down
and the rain came down with me. Sgurr Hain and Sgurr na Stri across Loch na Creitheach
I could pick out a ridge across to the path to Elgol to the right of the river
the route turned down from the ridge along this grassy gully to reach lower ground
this distinct little ridge - probably a glacial feature - took me across to the metal bridge over the Abhainn nan leac
looking back up the south ridge - a long trek down in the wet
it was a long way down the south ridge - must be brilliant on a clear day
the bridge across the main path that links Camasunary Bay to Kilmarie
looking back to Sgurr na Stri, which you do quite often when walking along the coastal strip to Elgol
about 150ft above the beach here, so attention has to be paid where you put your feet
the halfway point between Camasunary Bay and Elgol
still raining and the Cuillins covered in cloud except for the lower Sgurr na Stri
up on higher ground again
which eventually leads away from the cliffs as Elgol is approached
a mix of fishing smacks and the Island tour boats moored up at Elgol. Eigg is the distant isle