A long walk on the Isle of Skye 2012

Day Three: 10th May

Weather: Starting clear, then turning to snow on high ground and persistent rain lower down

Route: Torrin  to Elgol - 10.7 miles with 4200ft of ascent

Today was my day as the route I chose to walk differs significantly from the original. Forgotten is the tough pathless trek from day two and remembered is the hill I have to climb. Hill?- proper mountain I should say, and well worth the epithet. I depart from Patersons route that heads north to give me an extra day of travel by veering south towards Elgol, walking around the head of Loch Slapin. I have two alternative routes pending a decision as I pass the car park for Blaven (Bla Bheinn) – low cloud and it’s sticking to the coast from Kilmarie, but clear and it’s up and weigh hey, but in my mind I already knew the decision was taken.

Anyway I was dropped off at yesterday’s end point at Camas Malag beach, a short walk away from Torrin. Normally I would start and end at a B&B stop, but yesterday I was dead beat and ground to a halt at the beach. My legs felt ok at the start of the day even though day three on a long walk can be a bit sluggish, not in a slimy way. There’s something about being next to the coast first thing in the morning, maybe the air is fresher around me, and quite invigorating. From the beach I headed over a headland, found a nice gate to pass through and was in Torrin within a short time. There aren't any paths marked out on the OS maps, but it was quite easy to skirt around the coast, hop over a fence and then find a gate to pass through and up to a track. That took me up through many villas and up to the main road for a stroll through Torrin. The owner of the Blue Shed cafe was stood outside but it was far to early to be stopping for a cuppa. After a stroll through the houses of this small hamlet I was soon out on the road that skirts Loch Slapin and continues on to Elgol. In my face was the black mass of Bla Beinn (Blaven), looking very inviting and very menacing at the same time – but that’s only because the route up is over to the left and out of sight, beyond the big scree slopes that were facing me.
The tide was in and the loch waters a little windswept, with a flock of different songbirds, waders, gulls etc feeding along the shore. It’s been great for birdlife so far, there’s so many different types I’ve lost count, a brilliant place to come and stare. Stand still for long enough and you will soon be looking at a few different species. The road was pleasant to walk along, peaceful except for the odd car, and they were always courteous and slowed down as they passed by. I think I’d already made up my mind where I was going today and the cloud cover wasn’t going to put me off. As I rounded the head of the loch I could see the woods that marked the start of the route and knew I had to cut up to the right before the bridge over the river. At this point Patersons route heads north up and over the mountains to Glen Sligachan, but I definitely prefer my route. I followed the ‘Walk Highlands ‘ route up to Blaven, staying right of the waterfalls of Allt na Dunaiche, a deeply cut ravine with dense birch growth up the sides, so dense I couldn't get a good shot of the falls. After crossing the river at the road the path takes me up at a steady incline, across the moor, through a couple of deer gates where I could look down on the steep wooded gorge, with the fresh leaves making it look quite verdant. The water is crystal clear and very inviting, and a little bit further on I could gaze down into another rocky chasm cut deeply by the Allt na Dunaiche. A mile upstream and it was time to cross over to the other side, and make my way up towards the climb up to Coire Uaigneich, and by the time I was up there I felt reasonably fresh – not bad for an old fart. I passed by two Germans and thought to myself – ‘I have a micro fleece towel in my pack, must get up there first to lay it out’ – no chance of a sunbed today though. I pointed out the route to them and they followed me for a while before calling it quits. So it was me and the mountain and as I got up I had to watch out I didn’t venture too far into the Coire even though it was tempting, as the route cuts up sharply right away from the stony path. The main path leads to scree slopes below the south summit of Blaven.

No cairns mark the divergence of the route, I just had to look up and consult the GPS now and again. But Ron from the B&B had advised that once on the path you couldn’t really go wrong. That’s true enough and if you’re ever up this way and can’t see the path ahead then look again. It was a little harder work from now on as the gradient got steeper – walking up a Munro from sea level is not easy at the best of times, so I stopped often for the views. Plenty of zigzagging up on a wide lose scree slope. There’s one or two small scrambles but they are very short, and eventually I came out onto firmer ground which helped me stand upright a little more. Over on my right were some spectacular stone gullies with massive black buttresses on either side dropping right down to the coire far below – jaw droppingly brilliant. I knew I would lose the views as I got higher, but enjoyed looking down over Loch Slapin to Torrin, and the peninsula I had walked around from Ord. it looked a long way from up here even though it was now tiny. I continued up the stony gully which is the steepest and loosest part of the climb. Near the top of the scree the path heads on better ground and leads over to the edge of Bla Bheinn’s eastern cliffs, giving cracking views, but with a gusty wind I stayed back from the abyss. From here the way was well defined continuing up the slope to the left at a steady ascent with spectacular views in places between the great buttresses, much loved by rock climbers.
Further on is a cairn and views across to the rock peak of Clach Glas. As I gained height the ground became covered with boulders but I could still see the well trodden route showing up as a yellowish path across the darker stone. Ahead I could see another small scramble was required with a choice of three ways. I stuck to the middle line and was soon up and over leaving me with a short walk to the north summit trig point. By this time the weather had turned decidedly inclement, with snow flurries coming and going with a very chill blustery wind. Unfortunately the spectacular view down over Glen Sligachan wasn’t going to appear and if anything it was getting worse. So I decided to walked over quickly to the south summit via the ledge traverse – another short scramble on a narrow ledge, carefully avoiding falling off as this would hurt a little. Bla Bheinn (the Blue Mountain) is 928 metres high, making it the only Munro on Skye that is not part of the Cuillin Ridge.
I didn’t hang about and quickly started out on my route down the south ridge knowing it would probably take me as long going down as climbing up. The rain had set in for the duration now, but wasn’t heavy enough to cause discomfort, and once I’d lost some elevation I started to get some views of my route ahead and along the coast to Elgol. I stopped for a quick bite, more like a quick Hoover really and then continued the long descent down the south ridge – a fine route if I may say so. There is one rocky scramble down which is ok and towards the lower slopes the path turns left down a grassy gully. I spotted a likely looking small ridge that cut across the boggy slopes below and cuts away from the main path up to Kilmarie. I didn’t want extra mileage now as my legs were feeling the strain of yesterday and I still had four miles to go. Everywhere was now looking misty and Camasunary Bay didn’t have the charm it has on a sunny day – the house here is getting a new roof – I’d love to rent that out sometime. I walked the coastal path to Elgol last year and knew there was some precarious stretches to come – not a path to take an elderly relative on, unless you want your inheritance a little earlier than expected. It’s ok for most of the way but towards the first bay at Cladach a Ghlinne, the path is about 150ft above the rocky shore, little more than a ft wide, and about a ft from the edge! – tread warily is my advice, but as long as you’re sure footed it’s ok. On a fine day I would have been looking out across the sea to various islands such as Soay and Rhum, but though today has been more than fine the same couldn’t be said for the weather. I paused now and then to enjoy the view back to the Cuillins, very enjoyable whatever the weather. Soon enough the day was finished as I arrived at Elgol, looking down over the boats moored up at buoys, ready for a trip tomorrow. What an exhilarating day, tiring yes but what great fun. I found I’d run out of time to update the blog as I had an urgent date with a bottle of wine and some squat lobsters at the Coruisk House restaurant – wow they were delicious.

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around the headland below Torrin - I think the gladiators had beaten me to it

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Up the road to Torrin with the shapely peaks of Beinn Dearg Mhor and Beinn Dearg Bheag ahead

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on the road to Torrin. Blaven doesn't look too cloudy yet

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very peaceful down through the village

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the road around the loch to Blaven on the left

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it's more picturesque with the tide out, and it was a bit nippy

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making my way along the road

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looking down Loch Slapin from the head of the Loch

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Patersons route went north from the road to Bealach na Beiste next to Garbh Bheinn

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the path cuts across the heather and is clear to see from the road

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the first falls of the Allt na Dunaiche

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Blaven ahead but no sign of the route up yet

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looking back to Torrin the start of the day on the other side of Loch Slapin

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getting higher, the second falls - quite dry really

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I crossed the river soon after the falls then the path veers left up to Coire Uaigneich

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the path up Coire Uaigneich is loose rubble - glacial till really

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it's a well worn path up here

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the path turns sharp right up the slope just adjacent to the bluff on the right

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looking back over An Stac and the small Loch Fionna-choire

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some fellow walkers gave scale to the surrounds of Fionna-choire

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the path is clear to follow up over loose scree

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there are some mighty gullies close to the edge. Looking down on An Stac. Torrin now far below

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up above the scree the path is easier, but the scenery still very impressive

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looking over to Clach Glas - an impressive rock buttress with some impressive rock clefts!

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Garbh Bheinn, Belig, and Glas Bheinn Mhor, with Scalpay in the background, in front of Raasay, and the mainland in the distance

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more gullies towards the summit area

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still just below the cloudbase before the snow started

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a simple scramble ahead awaits across the boulders

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Pointy Marsco reflected on Blaven in a pointy crag

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higher and higher, you can see the road around the loch, and the river I followed up

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a simple scramble up the gully ahead

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led me up to a simple walk to the summit - great views

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great views and a very chill wind, with hoar frost on the ground

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nearly up on the summit before the weather beats me up

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so frustrating not to be able to see Glen Sligachan

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looking across to the South summit from the north summit

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so much to see if only it was clear

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and the snow started to sting a little - that's Loch an Athain down in the valley. I'm at 3011ft, the loch at 118ft

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there's a choice of routes to cross to the south peak - the ledge ahead or down left and scramble up a chimney. The ledge is ok

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looking back to the north peak - too cold to hang about

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the remainder of my route laid out before me, down the south ridge of Blaven

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down below the cloudbase momentarily and I nearly see all of Glen Sligachan

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looking back up the south ridge of Blaven

 

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 a panorama of  Sgurr na Stri to the left, Glen Sligachan and Marsco to the right 

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it was steep enough on the way down

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and the rain came down with me. Sgurr Hain and Sgurr na Stri across Loch na Creitheach

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I could pick out a ridge across to the path to Elgol to the right of the river

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the route turned down from the ridge along this grassy gully to reach lower ground

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this distinct little ridge - probably a glacial feature - took me across to the metal bridge over the Abhainn nan leac

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looking back up the south ridge - a long trek down in the wet

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it was a long way down the south ridge - must be brilliant on a clear day

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the bridge across the main path that links Camasunary Bay to Kilmarie

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looking back to Sgurr na Stri, which you do quite often when walking along the coastal strip to Elgol

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about 150ft above the beach here, so attention has to be paid where you put your feet

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the halfway point between Camasunary Bay and Elgol

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still raining and the Cuillins covered in cloud except for the lower Sgurr na Stri

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up on higher ground again

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which eventually leads away from the cliffs as Elgol is approached

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a mix of fishing smacks and the Island tour boats moored up at Elgol. Eigg is the distant isle

 

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