Rambling Pete

A long walk on the Isle of Skye 2012

Today I have two options depending on the weather. My preferred route and a great start to the day will be to take the Misty Isle boat on a one way journey to the landing steps near Loch Coruisk. A relaxing start that will only take 45 minutes, with the chance of wildlife viewing, but much depends on the prevailing conditions – hopefully my breakfast won’t be reappearing. If the weather is too inclement then I shall be returning to the car park near Kilmarie to cross over once more to Camasunary Bay and resume the path from yesterday, passing by the bothy and on up to Sgurr na Stri. I’ve been this way before, so know what to expect. The more I write about this walk, the more I realise that there are lots of options to take, it’s just a case of transport sometimes – I don’t suppose many cars will stop for a soaking wet hiker, so getting a bus timetable would be useful.

Having breakfast at Coruisk House and looking out to the south, it looked a little grey and unpromising (but the home made bread toast was fabulous). So I nipped out to the front of the house and was happy to see blue skies around the corner over the islands. Wondering what will it have in store today – wet or dry or soaked, with windy weather from the north it was a tad brisk. I was aware that the underfoot conditions will be soggy even on a good day out. Last October here was absolutely wonderful and I was hoping for more of the same today. My first thoughts were 'would the boat be running?' I've now used both the Misty Isle service and the Bella Jane service, and both of them were a real pleasure.

I was down at the quay for 8:45 to bag my seat on the early morning trip, I’d already mailed them last week to be sure, but I had only 4 fellow passengers, all of them walking the Skye Trail  albeit a slightly different version of mine. The seas looked a little lumpy, but nowhere near rough enough to stop the service. The Misty Isle is very much a family affair and it shows in the service they provide. Anne greeted me at the ticket shed, saying it was so cold she’d have to shelter in the cupboard, but she still had time to put the kettle on. It was a cold wind from the north that didn’t warm until later in the day, and what a view across to the Cuillins – clear of cloud with a light dusting of snow on the tops. Away to my right the coastline is inviting, but I walked here yesterday, we gently pull away from the concrete ramp and out into the waters of Loch Scavaig, with the island of Soay the nearest and most prominent to the west. All eyes on the Cuillin hills, all jagged and broody, with Blaven over to the right behind Camasunary Bay. The father (Seumas) was the skipper, and son (Stuart) was the narrator, safety officer – took great delight in showing us the emergency exits – and teaboy as well. I decided to sit myself down by the forward canopy as the engines got up to speed, and a couple of thumps later my fellow passengers were sporting a sea spray jacket – I didn’t laugh. It was very relaxing listening to Stuart and his knowledge and tales were much appreciated, as well as a cup of tea. We didn’t see too much wildlife because of the sea state, but the seals were out basking close to the shore, tails and flippers in the air. We slowed down to have a good look at the 'Bad Step' on the west side of the base of Sgurr na Stri, but that wouldn't affect any of us on our walk out today. The approach into the head of Loch Coruisk is surrounded by big black volcanic hills, the boat slows down to look closely at the seals basking on small rock outcrop - plenty of shags with spread wings like a long paper chain. It's only 10am and already I'm so relaxed my mind is drifting all over the place this is such a wonderful theatre of landscape. Seumas saw us safely into the landing steps and it was abandon ship for the Loch Coruisk show. I love it here, it’s a very special place and I took my time walking slowly to savour this theatre. The route today gets the best views of the Cuillins and all of them were on view. I still can’t believe that some looney ran / climbed the entire ridge in less than 4 hours. The ‘Innaccessible Pinnacle’ was prominent above the ridge, looking like a splinter standing proud of it's surrounds but dwarfed by the surrounding majestic peaks. The path to the river crossing wasn’t too boggy and the stepping stones were well clear of the water and dry as a bone – amazing what a dry month does. My mountain legs were still in bed and I felt a little heavy after yesterday’s efforts, so I pulled the plug on a walk up Sgurr na Stri so I could savour the Cuillens and Glen Sligachan at leisure – this wasn’t a day to rush around. Later on down in the valley I wished I'd taken some time to walk up to the top as I had plenty of time in hand, but it was nice to have a slow day. The views around Loch Coruisk get better the higher up you climb – not steep ground, but you have to be careful where you put you’re feet. The gabbro rocks are very grippy for walking over, but will shred your hands if you’re not careful. A steady plod took me up beside the waterfalls on Allt a Choire Riabhaich, more of a trickle today. Loch a Choire Riabhaich comes into view with the jagged peaks of Sgurr nan Gillean in the background, what a spectacle. As I got to the top of the beallach to the north of Sgurr Hain, I stepped into another theatre of Glen Sligachan, dominated initially by the formidable western slopes of Blaven, which are very steep rocky slabs – I would have had a cracking view yesterday had it been clear. Way in the distance the Sligachan Hotel stands out as a white blob on the landscape, it's a steady five mile walk down from the beallach to the hotel. Starting down the slopes to the valley floor I felt the full chill of a northerly wind, which bizarrely warmed up as the afternoon went on. There were quite a few groups out stalking the Munros of the Cuillins, happy that the wind was at their backs.
I found a lovely lunch spot and settled down to my freshly made butties – one bite and it looked like Blaven – see picture! I had a short day today and was grateful for it, especially later on as I took a pathetic tumble and almost bit the dust – good job nobody saw me. Walking north down the Glen had me staring up at great mountains the Black Cuillins to the west and the Red to the east. The path was stony and easy to amble along and as I drew level with the jagged pinnacles of Am Bastier the river ahead meanders over the wide valley floor – plenty of glacial till and out wash here. I felt a little like it was leaving a special place behind as I got towards Sligachan, ready for another change of scenery. I was very grateful for the weather today – a very special place and one to return to time and again. All that was left was a soak in the bath and a little R&R in the bar.

roll up, roll up for the 9am special to Loch Coruisk - Annes cupboard is behind her

getting the Misty Isle ready for boarding

no need for words really

my fellow passengers as the Misty Isle reverses out of Elgol

45 minutes of pleasure across Loch Scavaig - Sgurr na Stri on the left, Bla Bheinn on the right. The white dot is the house at Camasunary Bay

into the heart of the Cuillins

the shortest river in the UK? Scavaig River

many gabbro slabs to walk over before you cross the stepping stones. Gars-bleinn in the background

two sets of stepping stones from right to left, with a slab in between. Easy when it's not in spate

making my way around the shores of Loch Coruisk

the path climbs alongside the falls at Allt a Choire Riabhaich - a little soggy here but ok

the 'Inn Pinn' is top right of the picture - looking back towards the southern half of the Cuillins

this panorama just about shows the entire ridge

the loch shaped as a fish!! - Loch a Choire Riabhaich

a moody shot of the jagged northern peaks of the Black Cuillins

a panorama taken from the beallach north of Sgurr Hain. My start point down by the loch

and now for Glen Sligachan, dominated by the big bulk of Marsco, with Ruadh Stac on the right

looking back up to Sgurr Hain

the path down from the beallach

a touch of snow tops out Bla Bheinn

down into the Glen, with the Sligachan Hotel a mere dot in the distance

jaggedy 'Black Cuillins' to the left, roundy 'Red Cuillins' to the right

the occasional jet roars down the valley, with the pilot thinking what a view as they line up the Sligachan Hotel in their crosswire

the path ahead is clear

it's a steady trek down from the beallach near Sgurr Hain to the valley floor

my lunch spot - time to ponder Bla Bheinn once more

looking along Strath na Creitheach towards Bla Bheinn (Blaven)

Sgurr nan Gillean and the pointy pinnacle ridge

down in the valley floor on a good stony path, looking back to my route down from the beallach

the path splits here, to the left will take you below Bla Bheinn and onto Camasunary Bay, to the right is up and away to Loch Coruisk

looking across over Lochan Dubha

passing by the base of Marsco

and the other side of the valley passing by Sgurr Nan Gillean

the Sligachan Hotel is still a couple of miles to go

the River Sligachan starts to meander across the glen, with the path undulating over moraines

Sgurr Nan Gillean with the pointy peak of  Am Basteir

one of the wider river crossings, easy in the dry conditions

it's a great view back along the glen

and finally the 'Slig' comes into view

the famous tourist shot taken at the bridge - a stunning day out

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