A long walk on the Isle of Skye 2012
Day Seven: 15th May
Weather: Perfectly fine thank you
Route: The Quiraing to Rubha Hunish - 11.2 miles with 1861ft of ascent
The last day of a ‘Long Walk on the Isle of Skye 2012′.
Always a wistful moment or two when I think back to the
start of the journey and back again. I wondered about the
end of this walk and stopping it at Duntulm Castle, but now
I know I made the right decision to finish at the top of the
island.
I awoke to bright blue skies above Portree, ate a hearty
breakfast, packed the motor and set off north for the
Quiraing. All around me were blue skies – down to the
Cuillins and up to a clear Storr – fantastic weather. As I
got to Staffin there was a Victor Meldrew moment – ‘I don’t
bloody believe it’ – sitting right on the Quiraing was a
great lump of storm cloud, and as I drove up the Quiraing
road the heavens opened and dumped a veritable load of big
white hailstones. It covered the road, enough for me to
switch to 4×4, and to start cursing…a bit like our Victor
Meldrew. At the car park I just sat and waited, hoping and
delaying, but it was no good I couldn’t change the weather.
Actually I did a couple of minutes later on – I wished it
all away, and away it went. On with the wet gear, off with
the wet gear, too hot in the sun, and too cold out.
But really who gives a hoot when the landscape is as
distinct as this, sublime, hypnotic and downright smile
inducing. The path below the cliffs is but a narrow trod
above steep grassy slopes. It’s hard to make fast progress
as there’s so much to look at. A short way from the start is
an awkward rock step across a burn, but that’s the only
problem here, and it’s not so bad. Then I stood and stared –
sod the passing time and feast my eyes on this magical place
– wrinkly terracettes in green mossy grass, as the soil
creeps slowly downhill. Old farm use in the landscape below,
of wall patterns and peat cutting. Prominent knolls and
pinnacles draw the eye, as does a recent rock fall revealing
crystal vesicles amongst the black basalt. Up above the high
cliffs tower over the path, shielding me from the wind, and
in the sunshine it feels like May for once. A vertical dyke
splits the lava flow and next to it a small waterfall
tumbles quietly down the precipice. Ahead of me lay the
Prison, one of many slumped blocks that gives the landscape
a crazy tilt. I’ve been up there so didn’t climb today, and
up to my left was the needle, guarding the steep scree path
up to the magical hidden table – another must return to
venue. It’s almost too much, but I remember I have some bog
trotting to do before the day is out, and that returns me to
reality. I meet the two ladies and the German couple again –
he’s smiling, enjoying this landscape and taking lots of
pictures – I hope he gets in touch via this blog. The ladies
are finishing today at Flodigarry, and it’s a shame they
can’t hitch a ride and walk to the end at Rubha Hunish as
I’m sure they would have enjoyed that.
But our paths parted and I took the higher route up to Fir
Bhreugach and from there up towards Sron Vourlinn. This was
where the path ran out, the start of a bit of rough, rough
enough to make me curse a little, and struggle along for a
while. The path runs out and in retrospect I should have
stayed up higher on the hill, but part of this route is to
pick a line and go with it.
As an aside, I take my hat off to all who complete the TGO
challenge across Scotland every year, and especially to those
sadists who complete ten years running – some kind of
perversion if you ask me.
Oh yes – I followed the hint of a trod and it gently
contoured around the hill in the right direction for quite a
distance before it petered out. Stuart (Lonewalker) had told
me there was a semblance of a path towards the east side of
the coire on the right hand side of the Lon Horro burn. I’m
glad he did, as after stumbling through rough ground for a
little while I picked it up alongside the burn which has cut
a decent sized, steep, rocky ravine through the rocks.
Beyond the base of Sron Vuillen the ground levels off to a
boggy waste and the only way across is to try and keep to
the higher ground where there is any. Initially I made good
progress across several hummocks of moraine, but these
flattened off and it was just a case of picking a line and
hop, hoping from dry tuft to dry tuft, and coming across the
real wet stuff now and again. I’m going to compare my route
down with Lonewalkers and see if we ended up close, it will
be interesting for reference – as it happens our route
across from Sron Vourlinn were very close. After the recent
rain it still wasn’t truly boggy, but the walk up the length
of Skye does refine the eye for a stride to keep dry-shod.
It’s quite taxing watching your footfall all the time, but I
stopped occasionally to look back at the route and confirm I
was going in the right direction. There is a ridge of higher
ground over to the east, but I was headed west to skirt Cnoc
Roll and make my way to the telephone box that marks the
path to Rubha Hunish.
Once I’d crossed the worst of the bog there are some lush
looking fields before the wooden bridge over the Kilmaluag
River – these turned out to be a little moist, and churned
up by cattle, ready to catch the unwary with a boot full of
muddy water. Once over the river the ground was easier,
firmer to the foot and actually had a track on the ground.
There is a ‘tongue in cheek’ sign saying ‘Quiraing footpath’
which made me laugh – it doesn’t run very far. I made a bit
of a mistake here and took to a small road down to the
hamlet of Connista, instead of sticking to the fields behind
and above the houses. The net result was that I had to pass
through somebody's yard and climb over a gate into another
field to get back on line. Luckily for me nobody was at home
or I may have had to divert somewhat. Across the boggy
fields of Kilmaluag I could see my red telephone box that
marks the start of the path, and instead of taking the minor
roads to it I thought I’d take a turn over to Cnoc Roll,
taking advantage of some old farm tracks. It’s a good job it
wasn’t raining as some of the ground was mightily churned up
by cattle. Luckily for me I walked mostly on the short
cropped stuff just below the track and that was ok. As I got
to Cnoc Roll the track split left and right, and i took the
right branch to lead me around the east side of the hill and
up to the main road. The farmer here had a line of old baths
along the track – I think it was about 10 – but I didn’t
know when bath-time was or if the farmer scratched the cows
backs or not. I made steady progress north now, with good
weather overlooking the peninsula, but still the showers
crossed over the sea from the Hebrides, threatening me with
a quick wetting. But the blue sky gods were with me and as I
reached the telephone box I nipped inside for a few minutes
to take on board some liquid before the final walk to the
tip of Skye. The path out to Rubha Hunish is clearly
signposted, and is also clear on the ground. There has been
some remedial work done here which has probably filled in
some of the worst boggy bits, and certainly makes access to
the coast easier. Over to my left was Patersons finish of
Duntulm Castle, standing proud on its knoll, but no time for
a visit today as I’d plumped to finish at Rubha Hunish.
Below me was a line of old crofting remains at Erisco, all
laid out in a line running north south, there’s even some
old run-rigs below the cliffs of Meall Tuath. The path heads
for a cleft between two hills of Meall Deas and Meall Tuath,
reaching a perched boulder that marks the way down to Hunish
and the end. It’s a marvellous viewpoint looking down on the
deep blue sea and the smell of fresh sea air was fantastic.
The first bit down past the boulder is a little rocky
scramble, but is ok and has plenty of hand and footholds,
and this gives way to a steep path down the side of the
cliffs, that tower above. It was a great feeling to walk
down and across above Loch Hunish, but it was a little rough
seas today for any whale spotting, and that’s another reason
for a trip back here, maybe in the autumn. It was a real
pleasure walking along the short turf and didn’t take long
to reach the end of the peninsula, where I stood still
gulping in fresh air and looking out over rough waters to
the islands and over to mainland Scotland of Torridon. What
a finish and what a walk – it’s right up there with the
best, and I’m going to have to think long and hard about
where to go next.
A Long Walk on Skye 2012, finished but never to be forgotten.
the early morning squall travelling south -good riddance
looking back to yesterdays walk to Beinn Edra and Bioda Buidhe - note the hailstones brrrr
the path leading into the Quiraing. To the right is Dun Mor, ahead is The Prison
spectacular views back down over the road from Digg. The Cleat is behind the lochs
the small rocky step is just down to the left
Cnoc a Mheirlich in the foreground. Plenty of old field patterns below
the path crosses over a recent rockfall - lots of crystals in the rocks here
the path runs under some impressive bluffs. Note the Dyke to the right of the waterfall
what a vista to stand and stare
the Prison to the right and the Needle up to the left
the hidden beauty of the Quiraing is up beyond and behind the Needle - The Table. You have to make an effort to get up there.
two prisoners on the prison
the Needle guards the entrance to the Table
just about to turn north, the view across to Staffin Bay - there's dinosaur footprints down there at low tide at An Corran
heading north to the skyline left of the pinnacle. To the right is the route to Flodigarry
reaching the end of the Quiraing, a quick glance back - it's always a little dark along this path
Sron Vourlinn is the hill ahead, my route is to the left
the end is nigh - fabulous views north and the path continues around to the right contouring around Sron Vourlinn
this path gradually gets less distinct the further around the hillside I went
a sneaky trod led me a little left, but I should have continued to follow the edge a little longer
there is a semblance of a route through the rough ground, but that maybe in the eye of the beholder
down beside the easternmost burn in Coire Mhic Eachainn - looking back up to my way down
from this point it was pick a point and go. I tried to stick to higher ground and that was ok to the middle of the level ground when it got a bit boggy
the burn had cut quite deeply into the hillside, so I stayed well clear to the right
Sgurr Mor was the hill Paterson chose to traverse
there is a river right and left, so I stayed on the slightly raised ground between them
little hummocks were welcome and dry
looking back you can see the slightly raised ground. Sron Vourlinn is the hill I descended
then it gets a little boggy and soggy. My target is the white house. Torridon hills way in the distance
Sron Vourlinn on the left and Sgurr Mor to the right
getting squelchy now about half way across the low ground. Cnoc Roll with mast is where I'm headed for
out of the rough ground - phew. Onto wet fields!! The buildings of Connista shining white
typical peat moss type of bog - domed up in the middle. That was hard work for about a mile
the bridge over the Kilmaluag River
goodbye soggy boggy, hello footpath for a little while
the track leads down to Connista
it's not really a footpath honestly
old crofting remains and runrigs still in evidence
the road through Connista - I should have been up behind the houses
Cnoc Roll is on the left with radio mast, I walked to the white house to the right then up to Rubha Hunish beyond
the fields here were ok to walk across
but were a little churned up just before Cnoc Roll
and the farmer washed his flock by night - he's got a fine line in baths
up the track to the east of Cnoc Roll to the main road
Next to a phone box there's a clearly marked route to Rubha Hunish and it's not too far away
Duntulm Castle and Tulm Island about to get a splash
looking back at my route today from the beallach between the two hills
Duntulm Castle is where Paterson ended his route. Cnoc Roll is the hill with a mast
the path has had plenty of maintenance recently and there aren't many boggy sections
plenty of good rocky sections and some close cropped grass to walk across. The path heads between Meall Deas and Meall Tuath
the view back from between Meall Meall Deas and Meall Tuath
two runners admire the view I've yet to savour
Rubha Hunish and the end of Skye - the boulder marks the steep descent. The Scottish mainland looking closer
what fabulous colours from the top of the cliffs
down the path winds along below the big cliffs on the right
the initial rocky descent - plenty of handholds here
the path comes down right to left - not the big gully to the left
at this point my mind is in neutral, a big smile on my face and close to completing a brilliant walk
looking back to the cliffs
almost there - the mainland hills of Torridon clear now
feeling good
and worth every step along the way
this is the end my friend, thanks for reading, looking in and if you have any questions you can find my mail adress on the 'About' tab of my Blog