A long walk on the Isle of Skye 2012

Accommodation review


Skye has plenty of accommodation in the form of hotels, guest houses, a few bunkhouses, campsites and self catering cottages. The only trouble is that being such a fabulous place to visit they are unsurprisingly busy. They aren't cheap either, but for the money the quality is there. I view all of my long walks as a holiday and spend my money accordingly. Fortunately for me Mrs RP acted as a chauffeuse, ferrying me back and forth to my start and finish points. I think there is a holiday company operating 'The Skye Walk' as a self guided walking holiday, providing transport to and from selected B&B's. I'm sure that many B&B's would offer a lift for a small consideration, or even gratis. There is also a very good bus service on Skye and careful planning should let the walker have plenty of options for their chosen route. Failing this I'm sure that you could thumb a lift as the locals are very friendly and courteous on the roads, and as an expensive last resort there is always a taxi service.

Another possibility would be to rent a cottage for a week or two, take your time and if you have two cars - then park one at the end of the day and take the other to the start. Obviously a central position on the island would be better than the extremities, but whatever you do it's a glorious place to visit and one that will stay with me for the rest of my days. Anyway here are the places we were fed and watered and fed, and lay down to rest.. All of the breakfasts were good, not a duff piece of toast amongst them.

Day Zero - The Old Library Lodge at Arisaig - http://www.oldlibrary.co.uk/

After the long journey up from Manchester it was a pleasure to stop here for the night. The rooms were basic, but clean and tidy - a bit like a motel behind the restaurant, only not as big and no car park. The Wi-Fi worked well for my blogging. Lots of parking available across the road and a small boatyard and jetty to have a stroll along before the evening meal. The food was good as was the atmosphere, the owner chef  Robert really making the effort for a chat. A very relaxing start to the 'Long Walk on The Isle of Skye'


the view from the Old Library over to Rum across Loch nan Ceall over to Rum

Day one and two - Tir Alainn, Upper Breakish - http://www.visitskye.com/

I'll be honest here that this B&B wasn't our first choice, but it was recommended to us and it turned out well. A great welcome from Ron and his wife Pam, and some tea and shortbread. Ron has plenty of knowledge of the surrounds, and walking in particular as he used to guide people around the munros of Skye. The house itself overlooks the Red Cuillens and there was a fine sunset one night. The room was comfortable and well equipped, Wi-Fi in the lounge and best of all only a short walk to the 'Red Skye Restaurant'. As with many B&B's on Skye the shower was electric powered, but was adequate.


the view to the Red Cuillins from the front of the B&B

Eats on day one,  two and eight at the Red Skye Restaurant - http://www.redskyerestaurant.co.uk/

What a delight to find a restaurant serving great fresh cooked local food, with superb service. A great welcoming atmosphere from Chef John and the lovely  Lesley. John took time out each evening we visited to come out of the kitchen to talk to their customers. He obviously enjoys what he's doing here and it will be a great success - they've only been open a few months. It was a pleasure to stagger back to the B&B - tip for you all - share a bottle of Hebridean Gold between two as an aperitif - it's lush!


Day three - Coruisk House - http://www.coruiskhouse.com/

Our second visit to this restaurant with rooms and it didn't disappoint. The rooms are superbly set out, and the crisp linen just invites a quick snooze. I arrived dripping wet from my walk along the coast to Elgol - no problem there, just took off boots and parked them in the entrance - the lovely Clare didn't bat an eyelid. There are two rooms (with plans to extend in the future), the one with a four -poster being the better choice. The usual electric shower was good enough for me and the main event downstairs was the restaurant. What a joy to spend such a relaxing time having an evening meal. No rushed service, superb locally sourced food with good wine - we had the squat lobsters which were delicious, and what a way to while away three hours. I'll be coming back here again


the front of Coruisk House

Photobucket  No trip to Elgol should miss the boat trip out to Loch Coruisk - the Misty Isle or Bella Jane

Day Four - Sligachan Hotel - http://www.sligachan.co.uk/

I've been here before as well and to be honest I'd rather have stayed at the Carbost Inn but transport was a problem, as I only had foot power today. But the Sligachan Hotel is OK - they know how to charge though! I had a single room which was well furnished and it was nice to have a good soak in the bath. I ate in the Seumus Bar and ate good 'pub grub' and a few pints to wash it down - the service was good. The bottom of the pile for the weeks stay and eats I'm afraid, but someone has to be down there. But on the plus side the shower was a real gusher.


The Sligachan Hotel


the view next to the hotel - plenty of tourist buses stop here for a quick snap

Day Five, six and seven - Ben Tianavaig, Portree - http://www.ben-tianavaig.co.uk/

I was thwarted in booking a bed further north due to 'no rooms at the Inn syndrome'. But my loss was my gain as I managed to bag three nights at this B&B in the centre of Portree. A very distinct building on three floors, we chose the top floor and had a great view down over the harbour. The room was spacious, with a quirky bathroom adjacent to the next room - a little more soundproofing wouldn't go amiss!! Breakfast was a communal affair around a big table and we met some lovely guests. Great service and a great atmosphere from Charlotte and Bill - nothing was too much trouble, well equipped and comfortable rooms - electric shower again.


the view from the bedroom at Ben Tianavaig Guest House on Bosville Terrace

Day Eight - Strathfillan House, Tyndrum - http://www.tyndrum.com/

After walking to the northern tip of Skye, we drove down to the Red Skye Restaurant before leaving the island over the bridge. Numbty brains had decided to drive down to Moffat, but a quick scan of the map had us hunting for something a little less distant. I remembered the Bridge of Orchy Hotel from my West Highland Way walk - no room at the Inn. So we nipped up along the road to the Inverarnan Hotel - it smelt of cabbage - no room at the Inn (close call). So onward to the south and as we passed through Tyndrum I chanced my arm at a B&B on the old A82 road, now by-passed. It was late at about eight, and the lady of the house was messing about in her horse box. We enquired about a room for the night, and she thought a moment before saying yes. She hadn't cleaned the bathroom, so we said we didn't mind, and we got a great double room, good breakfast, at a good price.

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