A wobbly Coast to Coast path - Rambling Pete's Way 2010
Day Ten: 26th June
Weather: Overcast to start, looking like rain…but dry again and finished in sunshine
Route: Rosgill to Patterdale - 16.0 with 3900ft of ascent
I woke with a distinct lack of mojo today and felt strangely lethargic – maybe it’s because I’ve got to cut the grass tonight (staying at a friends house). I was definitely feeling out of sorts, so I attacked the toes again – re-applied some compeed, gulped some Ibubrofen and girded the old loins. I was dropped off at Rosgill and began my walk on the ‘real’ coast to coast path – not much wobble today, but going against the flow I passed by plenty of people. It was a steady start up the valley through pasture, along a very well defined path – I suppose it’s well trodden everyday - to take me up to Naddle Bridge. All the grass was lying against me as most are walking from west to east, but I’d saved the best until last. As I crossed over the bridge I saw a couple of treecreepers – small brown birds with a curved beak, perfect for nail cleaning or opening beer bottles. They looked quite delicate and were hard to spot against the tree – there is a picture in the fauna and flora at the end of the walks – see if you can spot it. As I walked into Burnbanks the sky was overcast and looking like trouble, but by the time I got to Haweswater it was blue skies again – how long can it last. I went slightly off piste – I suppose I should have noticed that climbing over deer fences would lead me astray – and ended up down on the shore of Haweswater. The reservoir was looking low so I suppose we will have a hosepipe ban soon enough (we did about 2 months after I’d finished – it started to rain soon afterwards!).
I sat down and had a Red Bull before starting along the Haweswater path and with that and the scenery, I Was soon whizzing along. I always love coming to the lake district and I suppose the shore walk took me into the lakes - soon enough I felt right at home even though I knew what was coming – lots of ascent over the next few days. The path above the shores of Haweswater gently undulates for a few miles, before arriving at the foot of Kidsty Pike. – It hasn’t shrunk since I was last here, but I enjoyed looking up to the crags in case I spotted the eagle. Towards the end of the lakeside path the route has a steep little drop and climb before turning the corner around to the bottom of Kidsty Pike. There wasn’t too much of the drowned village of Mardale showing up, just a few walls and enclosures sticking out of the mud. Quite a few coast to coasters were taking a breather after coming down from Kidsty Pike – it is a bit of a knee cruncher. But there was no avoiding the ascent so I just got on with it – the reward is at the top. There’s some lovely scenery up around the head of Haweswater and I’ve had a good few walks, always with fantastic views – today was no exception. I passed by a string of coast to coasters on my way up – a good excuse to stop and chat - the higher I went the hotter it got. There was a lone fly fisherman at the end of the lake and a lot of people out looking for the eagle. On the long steep haul up I looked across to Riggindale, but could only see the big white splodge of the eagles eerie – it must be a lonely life being a sole eagle. There was a warm breeze blowing in from the west, quite pleasant and drying. After cutting up the crags the gradient eased and there was the summit – it looked like a mass trespass – loads of people, bikes and an ice cream van – the last one was a hallucination. I carried on in my euphoria of reaching the summit by walking part way up the Straits of Riggindale before I realised the error of my ways and about turned - but on the plus side I had a good view down over Hayeswater.
The views today were a little limited as it was very hazy, but Helvellyn and his chums were near enough to see all. I had a quiet lunch on The Knott (complete with England flag fluttering from the cairn) I think the couple who put it there were deeply embarrassed, and rightly so – last time I was here it was about minus 5 with the windchill and we couldn’t see a thing, and I’d forgotten my sandwiches. Originally I had planned to tick off a Wainwright by trotting down to the Nab, but I decided to nab The Nab on another day. It was very peaceful when everyone else had passed me by on their way east and I took my time enjoying the route down to Satura Crag and Angle Tarn – lots to enjoy on this part of the path. Angle Tarn looked very inviting but I bet it was cold and you’d have to make the effort to get up there – I wished I’d saved my lunch until I got here. From Angle Tarn it was a couple of miles down to Patterdale, and from Boredale Hause it got considerably steeper. But again there were delightful views down to Ullswater, Glenridding, Patterdale and over to my route for tomorrow.
Rest Dodd with The Nabb beyond - from The Knott
All of the lakes I could see were glinting in the afternoon sun and the gradient eased a little as I walked to Rooking and then cut across the meadow to the bridge. A short walk along the road brought me to the hotel for a nice pint of cider and an Ice cream – it was very busy but it was Saturday. There was a Triumph motorbike convention there tonight and the place is full of bikers – should be a peaceful night for the C2C’ers then, but for me….I’ve got to cut the grass. Yet another glorious day and though I started slowly I felt fine once I was in the lakes properly – I love it up around here. A big day tomorrow – so in the morning a double Red Bull and Ibubrofen please.
Patterdale and Ulswater come into view
