A wobbly Coast to Coast path - Rambling Pete's Way 2010
Day Six: 22nd June
Weather: sunshine just for a change
Route: Bellingham to Burnhead B&B - 18.5 miles with 2536ft of ascent
I woke up early but my feet wanted to stay in bed, but I rose and partook of a light breakfast – only 2 people in the pub, and the landlady was worried – not many people doing the Pennine Way nowadays. I restocked with plenty of snacks for the long day ahead and as the skies were blue I carried some extra water. At least navigation was a given as I was on the Pennine Way all day – I just followed the White acorns. Out of Bellingham past I crossed over the North Tyne River and past yet another St.Cuthbert’s church, closely followed by yet another St.Oswalds – they’ve been busy up around these parts. As usual I had an uphill start to the day, but soon reached the first path across a field, and thankfully it was well trodden and easy to follow. Up on Ealingham Rigg I continued yesterday’s theme of putting my size 9 1/2’s on wildlife and this time a raven very nearly copped it. I headed towards the big TV mast and then found the much photographed sign to Shitlington Crags.
My legs felt lethargic today and I couldn’t get any pace into them – more Ibubrofen tomorrow I think. I was slow going past Shitlington Hall – I wonder if it’s a silent T. They have one of those sneaky sheepdogs that creep up behind you and try and take half your leg off – ruff, but I was very aware of its intentions and made sure I knew where it was. I crossed over the valley and the Houxty Burn which is running very dry at the moment so I could just wade through with dry boots. Ouch my toes were running hot and I was only 4 miles in – not good with 13 to go. The ground is pretty hard as well, especially where the cattle have been, with hooves churning up ground when it is softer – it makes for awkward walking at times. Thankfully a cooling breeze sprung up to take the worse of the heat away, and I had a big hankie on my head to stop my follically challenged head from frying, and to ward off all the little black flies that were buzzing around my sweaty brow. Out on the back lanes wild flowers thrive in the kerbside, including many orchids, although there are a lot of purple ones at the moment, as well as the omnipresent buttercup. There’s some beautiful properties up around these parts and some have gardens worthy of an award – Low Stead was one of these, but on the downside it sounded like their electric supply was about to blow.
the Pennine Way enters more plantation - but it's more open
than previous encounters
It was a tiring day though as the grain of the land runs west to east, and as I was going south there was plenty of up and down. At 7 1/2miles in it was the start of the forest paths and the first of only 5 walkers I met doing the Pennine Way. We waved at each other and as befits a wobbly coast to coast I was slightly off piste. The next one along bought all of my aches and groans into perspective – a lady in her late sixties carrying her own pack at 11kg – respect, her offspring were meeting her at Kirk Yetholm for a good and well deserved celebration. Another lady followed, a Japanese lady – ‘where’s the killer flies?’ – ‘What killer flies?’ – ‘very small killer flies’ – ‘midges?’ – ‘yes’ – ‘there in Scotland laughing at the England team’……….’thank you velly much’…..’my preasure’. The rest of them were boring in comparison and the Japanese lady looked so neat and tidy and well prepared – what turmoil she must have been suffering expecting clouds of midges at every corner. The forest rides were so easy compared to what had gone before, but I am glad it’s been dry, as their very nature lends itself to boggy ground where the path passes through. The jets were buzzing low overhead – my turn for the size 9 1/2’s – and what a noise they make as they sneak up behind you, then all of a sudden the huge explosion of noise above. They fly a lot around here and up to the ranges at Otterburn.
The walk through the woods was far and away much nicer than before, more airy and dappled sunlight getting through. I sat and had lunch when I reached a big break, sunbathed for a while and listened to nothing in particular. I took a picture of my lunch on my phone – it was nice – Marmite crisps always are. As I came out of the last of the forest I could see instantly why the Romans built the wall where it is. It sits atop a dominant ridge with a couple of wide valleys separating it from the north. Greenlee Lough looked a bit dryer than the last time I saw it, and it had a bit of a beach, with a few cattle paddling in the waters. As I came to Crag End I met 2 girls and a bloke, who were looking for ‘Vindaloo’ – yes that’s the one where the car’s parked – all the gear and no idea and as he had the map I let him get on with it. His female companions weren’t all that impressed though.
The tourists were out in numbers up and around Housesteads and I met another couple who asked ‘Where’s Houseteads car park mate?’ – ‘Can you see those tiny people over there?’ Needless to say they moaned a lot, but at least they now knew which way to go. I’d forgotten how much up and down there was along this section of the wall, and it includes the highest point at milecastle 41. I passed by many stunning features, and it’s no wonder it’s so popular – Crag Lough (with sunbathing cattle), Sycamore Gap (with the tree filmed in Robin Hood prince of thieves), the playing card castle (milecastle 39), and some great views back to Housesteads - a very photogenic spot in the right light. As I neared the B&B the vellum was very well formed, but my toes didn’t give a toss – they were screaming at me to stop – so I did. I met a lot of nice people on the wall though, even if it was a bit of a melting pot. I reached the halfway point today, and beautiful dry weather again, but I fear for next week in the Lake District as I’ll surely get wet sometime soon. I’d stayed at Burnhead B&B before and it’s a great place – the landlady kindly did a wash for me, even though she was going on holiday tomorrow – great service. The only downside of the day was the last stagger up to the pub, but it wasn’t far and at the end of the night I rolled all the way back. Dare I say another great day on Rambling Pete’s Way.
