Madeira 2012
Day : June
Weather: Raining on Funchal but sunny for our walk
Route: Sao Lourenco and back again. About 4 1/2 miles.
Map: Madeira Tour & Trail Map - Paper Version by David Brawn 1:40000. Carta Militar maps are more detailed
Guide Book: Walking in Madeira - a Cicerone guide book by Paddy Dillon. Walk number 6
This walk starts as a leisurely drive along the coast from Funchal, passing beneath the airport runways and on to the eastern most car park on the island, just beyond Canical. The walk doesn't actually reach the most eastern point of Madeira as there is no way across the water at the rocky end of Boqueirao. As with the rest of Madeira the volcanic geology is fascinating and has given rise to some sheer cliffs and rocky coves along this peninsula. The weathering has given some interesting colours in the differing stratum and some lovely sea stacks. The vegetation was sparse as it's been fairly dry on Madeira for the past 6 months according to the locals, but that didn't stop a recent rain shower turning sections of the walk into a bit of a boot mudfest. Overall this is an easy walk with an ascent \ descent of around 1475ft. Any areas that have been deemed perilous have been paved and a safety line put in place. Just make sure you have plenty of water on a hot day as there isn't much shade to be found apart from a seating area at the Casa do Sardinha. This was a family house that used to be reached by boat to a small jetty, but is now in the hands of the regional government who are charged with using it to promote nature conservation on the peninsula. Wayfinding is simple as there is just the one path out and back, and a little loop at the end. Enough waffle from me, enjoy the pictures.
If you really want a good story, and the inspiration for my trip here, then visit Because they’re there , a very fine walking blog written by Alen McFadzean (from his blog – Journalist on The Northern Echo, former shipyard electrician, former quarryman and tunneller. Climbs mountains and runs long distances to make life harder. Gravitates to the left in politics just to make life harder still. )
Pillow Lavas at the car park - lava that is ejected below sea level and rapidly cools into a pillow shape
the whole walk stretched along the peninsula, but the end island Ponta de Sao Lourenco cannot be reached by foot
the signpost points to Casa do Sardinha - PR8. Note the path stretching away beyond the footbridge
looking back to the start - nice boardwalk for a short distance
the Islas Desertas lie far out to sea, with fish farms closer to the shore
we pass through this old wall made up out of various shaped boulders
the route takes us down to the gap between hills where there are great views of tall cliffs and sea-stacks
incredible colours and contrast between the rocks and the turquoise sea
recent rockfalls in evidence at Pedra Furada
I could have looked at this for ages
the viewpoint over this scene is quite close to the edge of the cliffs
uphill from the sea stacks and the path wanders away to the left before returning along the cliff top on the opposite side - see the line top left of picture
up a steep rocky path with some great volcanic geology to view - Dykes, Breccias, lava flows, and pumice to name a few
here a Dyke cuts through earlier lava flows, and you can see how the heat of the lava changes the rocks at the edges of the Dyke
towering cliffs with Dykes cutting through vertically
almost an artwork at this cove
another sea-stack at Ilheu do Guincho
another view of the Dyke Swarm
thankfully the showers passed to the north of us as we approached the narrow part of the ridge at Estreito
back over in Funchal it's not so nice. Our start point was the far headland to the left
the narrow part of the walk at Estreito, well protected by rails both sides of the path. The Casa appears ahead
the end of the walk out is the top of the hill beyond the house
more big cliffs, but no wildlife evident in the sea
lovely turquoise seas looked very inviting
part of the sparse vegetation
a little oasis ahead
beautiful colours in the sea
and loads of these out and about ready to run up and over your boots. Stand still long enough and they'd be up your trouser leg
the path splits here - to the right for the house and jetty down to the right
Funchal clearing a little and watching the planes come into land is interesting
not big enough for a handbag
looking back at the route along the top of the cliffs on the right
down and up to the early 20th Century house - now a centre for the Reserva Natural da Ponta de Sao Lourenco
a few bright thistles were dotted around the slopes
beautiful plumage
a nicely stepped path leads up to the top, a short sharp climb
with cracking views back down over the peninsula
our route back took us up to the right and across the slopes to the left
almost at the end of the path there are more spectacular cliff views
the end of the outward half overlooking the Ponta de Sao Lourenca and the Islas Desertas
now it was about turn and back to the start
plenty of flotsam and jetsum washed up on the shores below
still not sunny in Funchal
blazing sunshine now on the way back - Tandoori sun baked legs coming up
