Mallorca 2009
Day : 28th September
Weather: Typical Manchester weather
Route: Es Teix and the Archduke Lluis Salvadore’s walk
Map: Mallorca
Tramuntana Central 1:25000
From Valldemossa along the
valley of Es Cairats up to the Font des Polls. Turn right up
the Serra des Cairats up to Es Teix. Walk down to the
Archdukes path and around to Talaia Vella, and then drop
down back to Valldemossa: 12.6 miles by Satmap Active
10 gps in 6 1/4 hrs
I was looking at the map of this walk upside down, and
originally I had planned to walk out to Sa Galera across a
stony plateau called Es Boixos. When I was reading it, it
looked like Es Bollox so I didn’t bother going out to Sa
Galera – the weather was rubbish anyway. When I woke this
morning it looked ok outside so I took my chance and drove
down to the start at Valldemossa. But when I got there I
could see the low clouds around the higher peaks, but I
thought I would carry on anyway – it was just like being in
Manchester, but sunnier and quieter. I parked by the local
football stadium – a good landmark and adjacent to the
finishing point as well, with free parking.
On the outskirts of Valldemossa – up to the left
Looking back to Valldemossa
A gentle ascent into the rain
There were a few black vultures circling high above, so high
that I thought that they were crows, but they were the real
thing – big birds they are. Lots of the paths around here
were built by the Archduke Lluis Salvadore back in the
1800’s, and he was quite a conservationist apparently. He
certainly made the walking easy across difficult terrain –
what a gent. Once I was kitted out I set the Satmap going
and picked up plenty of satellites, checked my position on
the map and started the long uphill section along Es Cairats,
that’s Spanish for Jasper Carrot Way. The ascent was gentle
for quite a way along a farm track that runs all the way up
to the refuge where I turned off. I could see my fate early
on as the rain clouds were clinging to the head of the
valley, and coming from sunny Manchester I know what a rain
cloud looks like – just like a walk in the Lake District
except warmer.
A deep snow hole
Valldemossa far below, from the junction of Serra des
Cairats
Looking down to the valley from the Serra des Cairats
I was aware of my misadventure on La Maroma (Andalucia) the
previous year, so I made sure my compass and a GOOD map were
handy. I had read through the Cicerone guide that Muz had
kindly sent to me, so I had a reasonable idea of what was
coming. I also figured fairly early on that I would have to
bin the idea of the walk across to Sa Gomera – but I
wouldn’t have seen anything, and it would have been all
compass work, and not worth 3hrs in more cloud. So I changed
the route slightly to include Talaia Vella, and what a
delight it was – every cloud has a silver lining etc – it’s
true, but only if you’re hill walking. It was very quiet
down in the valley and I didn’t meet anyone except some
goats with some superb curly horns. Unfortunately for the
camera they were quite fleet of foot and scarpered as soon
as they heard me coming along.
A threshing floor
Windy and wet ahead
On my way up to the summit of Es Teix
In the lower valley the cultivated terraces gave way to some
wooded areas that have taken over the old terraces. Holm
Oaks dominated the higher slopes, and I saw my first snow
hole – deeply impressive, but built too low on the slope to
preserve the winter snow apparently. There were also plenty
of threshing floors\drying floors – usually close to the
snow holes. These were layered rounds of ground that were
mostly covered with moss – lovely and flat. There must have
been a good deal of cultivation up these higher slopes back
in the 18th century, but not much going on up here nowadays
– too labour intensive I suppose. The track steepened as it
went higher up towards the spring called Font des Polls, and
I rested my sweaty torso here and had a good gulp of juice
and a snack before carrying on.
The summit trig
I couldn’t see much around me
Eventually I met up with some recognisable paths
I left the good track here to follow an old mule track
called the Serra des Cairats that eventually leads up to the
Puig Es Teix. I checked the map and noted that this was a
one way trip to the top, with a dead end branch at the end
of the mule route – so I remembered to take a significant
left turn when it came along. The path rose steeply up the
valley side in a series of zigzags, with partial views down
to the valley floor below. At this point it started to drop
big watery blobs on my sparse tonsure, so it was on with the
full waterproofs, and despite the sweaty climb, it kept out
the wind and the rain – and boy did it rain. It was head
down for a little while to avoid the worst and I reached the
left turn and took it, even though the route was tempting me
onwards to the dead end. I plodded steadily upwards sighting
and following the stone cairns across the bare limestone
pavement.
No signs coming from the other way though
A locked gate!
This cairn marks the junction of the Archdukes path
The Archdukes path ahead
Eventually I came up above the treeline and it lashed it
down – I don’t think I have been out in rain like it for a
long, long time. But in my head I knew that once I’d been up
to the top in the mist, it would be back down below the
cloud base soon enough. I knew which way the trig point was
and took a bearing for it as I didn’t want to stray too far
down the lee slope, I stayed up close to the escarpment edge
that would lead me up to Es Teix. I couldn’t see very far
and spent quite a bit of time walking sideways and admiring
the plant life at my feet. It was good to see the flowering
autumn crocus – Colchicums, and the usual herb garden shrubs
of Rosemary and Thyme, and carefully avoided the nasty spiky
mounds. The last bit to the summit was a fairly well trodden
path, and I knew I was there because I bumped into the trig
point. No great cairn up here, just a length of round steel
pipe and a small plaque. I didn’t hang around as it was
fairly inhospitable weather, but at least I have an excuse
to return now.
It winds its way to higher ground
The cobble edged path in good condition
Looking back over the higher ground
I checked the map again and took a bearing to lead me down
off the summit NNW. I soon found the trace of a path down a
steep slope, but kept checking my direction – I’m a bit
paranoid now! But it was well used and wound down to lower
ground. I soon came down through the mist and spotted an
estate track and a footpath beyond, both leading off in a
westerly direction. It was nice to see a little ahead of me
and the rain eased off as I came to the edge of the private
estate. Here was a bizarre sight as there was a big stile up
and over the well made wall, with a padlocked gate at the
top. It didn’t make a blind bit of difference as you can
just step on the wall easily enough and down the other side.
From this point onwards it was still misty with showers, but
got dryer and clearer the further west I walked. From the
stile there was a rocky path down to meet up with the
Archdukes path, with a small scrambly bit but no difficulty.
Easy walking along the tops
The path runs along the top edge of the escarpment
Looking down on the Archdukes old place
A horse trough?
Once down at the col a large pile of stones marks the
junction with the path that comes up from Es Cairats past
the refugi, and joins up to the Archdukes path. Here it was
an unmistakeable made path, lined by limestone kerbs with
crushed stone in between. It must have been like walking in
the park in its heyday – a fine achievement by a forward
thinking Gent of the 19th Century. The route took me to the
right of the cairn and it was easy to stride out along the
path, although it was still a little damp. The path is clear
and gently climbs and descends, and I suppose the views from
here must be magnificent on a clear crisp day. There is a
viewpoint at one stage that looks down onto Deia below and I
could pick out the villa we were staying in. Unfortunately
Port Soller further up the coast was obscured by low cloud
scudding across, but I kept getting glimpses, almost seeing
the highest peak on the island at one point. There was a
gentle ascent up the slopes to Puig Gross and the path tries
to stick as near to the edge as it can, it certainly passes
over some rocky patches, and must have taken a good deal of
labour to build this, although most of the material would
have come from the surrounding sandy slopes. After dropping
down on a winding path to the next col at the Pla des
Aritges – plain of the spikey things, there is another pile
of stones marking a route down to the left that would lead
you back to Valldemossa.
The path covers some rough ground easily
But don’t stand to close to the edge
Looking back along the escarpment
Port Soller in the distance
But my route was straight on the delightful Archdukes path,
to Es Caragoli – the third 3000ft plus peak today ( Es Teix
– 3557ft, Puig Gros – 3077ft), where there is a small plaque
dedicated to the Archduke – maybe they should call all the
peaks in Mallorca over 3000ft Archdukes, like Munros? Beyond
Es Caragoli the path sticks very close to the edge and there
are some fantastic views and vertiginous drops in places,
and fittingly the weather continued to brighten. The
Archdukes former estate and house of Son Marroig came into
view far below, with the distinctive spur of land behind – a
headland with a hole in it. I continued along the edge of
the limestone scarp, ignoring any turn offs to the left that
would have taken me back down to Valldemossa. There is an
interesting depression in one of the rocks next to the path,
being a symmetrical round depression at about the right
height to be used as a drinking bowl for any passing horse
or mule. I had a close look at this and I’m sure it is the
hand of Manuel labour, as none of the other rocks I passed
today had anything remotely similar.
The hermitage
Lovely windows
The view back to the escarpment
Deia far below
At the end of the escarpment the path turns down the lee
slope and zigzags down to the Coll de Son Gallard, passing a
small hermitage set into and below some rocks. The hermitage
has signs requesting silence, and very peaceful it is here.
It reminded me of the Monty Python sketch about the hermit
having not spoken for years – I wondered how many tourists
came knocking at the little door. It had a couple of plywood
windows and some plastic sheeting for a roof, but it must be
perishing cold in the winter months, although there is
plenty of firewood lying around. So I trod softly and left
by the way I had arrived, and soon got down to a crossroad
of paths at the col.
The view from the Archdukes folly on
Through the square window
Looking inland
The trig point on Taleia Vella
Here I could have turned left to drop down the GR221 to
Valldemossa or right to Deia – maybe next time. My route was
straight up the hillside up towards the Archdukes summer
house folly type building. There was an awful smell of
goats’ doings low down on the slopes but thankfully that was
soon behind, and the views behind me opened up to the
escarpment I’d walked earlier. Up at the small building it
was time for some more refreshments and to take in the
vista. They must have had some good times up here, as the
views are spectacular. I nearly had great views but the
cloud was still spilling over Es Boixos the bollox. After a
mooch around the remains it was a short walk through old
olive trees to the trig point – a proper one this time,
before turning downhill to wind my way back towards
Valldemossa.
Looking back to the folly from the trig point
The view down to the South West
Valldemossa is just around the corner
The path crosses much limestone pavement
There were more snow holes, threshing floors, limestone
pavement and goats trying to climb trees to get at the
leaves. I’d noticed an interesting plant today, with fat
waxy leaves, and a purple bract and stem of a flower – not
the most attractive, but different for sure. It was downhill
all the way now, with the path zigzagging down the hill
gracefully – but it was quite full of rubble in places and
hard on the feet. At the Mirador de Can Costa I stopped to
take in the surrounding countryside with far views down the
coast to the south west – made me think of all the people
frying on the beach who never see such beauty – all the more
for me though. Eventually the path met up with the GR221
leading back down to Valldemossa. It worked its way through
a dreary patch of charcoal burner’s woods, with plenty of
coppiced trees abounding and some large square piles of
stones – don’t know what these were used for.
The stony path down to Valldemossa
Water flows down off the mountains through old pipework -
sometimes
Then it was on to more downhill, steeply in places but easy
going and eventually a glimpse of the Astroturf pitch in
Valldemossa, so I knew I wasn’t far away. I came out onto a
road next to a fence with a small sign pointing the way to
Es Teix and wandered through the streets to the car. It was
a great walk, very satisfying with something for all, but my
shins weren’t half sore from last week’s walk in Glencoe –
it’s worth the pain though. All that was needed know was the
short drive back to Deia for a nice cooling San Miguel – not
a bad day out after all.