Aonach Eagach
Date: 20-Sep-2009
Map: Landranger 41
Weather: Jimmy Saville and the four seasons
Up to Am Bodach, along the ridge to Meall Dearg, across the pinnacles of Aonach Eagach, up to Stob Coire Leith, along the ridge to Sgorr nam Fiannaidh before dropping down the hillside to return to the Clachaig Inn: 6 miles by Satmap Active 10 gps in 7 hours - ouch
My walk yesterday up the lost valley prepared the legs for today’s walk/scramble/climb up and along the Aonach Eagach. The route took in 3 Munroes along the way, not that I’m counting as I would have to spend many years to collect all 283 odd hills. I’ve been eager to do this walk for the last few years, and this was the first weekend opportunity to get to grips with my fears and reservations, and to seek some adventure.
A gent by the name
of Mad Mike had originally offered to escort me across, and
several others had tried to reassure me with an assessment
of the route, grading it from easy to tough. I’ve watched a
few you-tube clips as well, but really didn’t reassure
myself either – but like all things in life you can choose
to live or not. I had contacted Mike the week before and
arranged to meet up for the weekend, then plumped for Sunday
as Saturday looked too wet – he advised the rock became too
‘soapy’ and a bit slick in these conditions. So I awoke with
much anticipation and a quick heads up outside showed some
sunshine, but many of the tops were still misty - however
anticipation is all. Another walker from the walkingforum
site – Mike (Peakbagger) was also walking up here today but
he was doing some rope work, and was part of a signed up
group. He left earlier in the day to get ready, and I’d
arranged a 9am meet up near the Clachaig Inn with Mad Mike.
So I drove over to the lay by and waited – it was nice and
fresh with a touch of wind – well I was a bit nervous. I had
a good view up to the Aonach Eagach and the mist swirling
around the pinnacles. Then I had a text from
Mike saying he couldn’t make it, and that left me with mixed
emotions. I sat and pondered my options – shall I go on my
own or go elsewhere? It would have been very easy to sit in
the car and say ‘not today thanks’. But like I said earlier,
you make a choice in life, so I did and decided to at least
walk up to Am Bodach and see what all the fuss was about.
That turned out to be the best decision I have made for a
while, so I drove up to a little spot near Jimmy Savilles
house and wished him good morning, filled my bag with snacks
(forgot the red bull...doh) and set out on a steep well
defined path up to the first summit. I had seen two sets of
lads on their way up – the first three had ropes, hats etc,
and the next three looked happy and were discussing the
Three Sisters and the way up the buttress. So I already knew
that ahead of me would be people familiar with their
surrounds. The Chancellor with the
valley far below - about 2500ft I decided a steady
plod upwards would suffice today and reckoned on 1 to 1 ½
hours to the top of Am Bodach – based on how long it took me
up to Y Garn on the Nantlle ridge walk. I stopped frequently
on the way up for views over to the Three Sisters and up and
down Glencoe. Sir Jimmy’s house was shrinking away below me,
as I gained height quickly, so the worst of the sweat and
toil is over by the time I got to the top. I could hear the
voices of the youngsters up ahead of me (late twenties,
thirties), and surprisingly for me, I caught with them about
¾ way up Am Bodach. Now I’m no racing snake so I think they
were taking it easy, and encouraging me up. So I said my
hellos and explained the situation with regard to Mike, and
how I would handle the Aonach Eagach exposure. But the three
of them assured me that it was ‘a piece of pish man’ and
would easily cope. They said they didn’t mind if I tagged
along, and I was much relieved to have someone who could say
‘watch this bit’, or ‘go that way’ etc – that includes
Barmpot amongst other local sayings. This shows the first
descent from the summit of Am Bodach More than that
though, they were very good company as well, and we had a
laugh or two on the way across. Neil the ‘mountain monkey’
looked after John for most of the way across, giving him
rope whenever he felt the need and obviously encouragement.
While Garry kindly checked my state of mind periodically,
this is always good for reassurance. As we approached the
summit we walked up into the cloud cover, and promptly
donned waterproofs, gloves and a change of hat – this was
definitely a 2 hat trip. The temperature dropped about 5 to
10 degrees and the wind came and went, a little bit gusty,
but at least it was blowing us back onto the mountain.
well mostly easy - this
chimney was not as bad as it looks But before we got
there, the second challenge appeared – the chimney. It looks
very steep on first approach, and although there are one or
two stretches, it had plenty of good handholds, footholds,
fingernail holds – whatever you could grip really. The first
10 to 12ft is steep but the rest is easy – my heartbeat
pulled me up and along. As I passed over the top I was
beginning to wonder what the pinnacles were to bring. We
meandered along to Meall Dearg, on a generally good path
with a few lumpy bits along the way, but with no great
degree of scrambly bits and I managed to drop down off all
the pitches facing forward. We made the summit and had a
refreshment stop as progress was slow with the 4 in front of
us roped up together and having no real passing places – you
can hardly start to shove past up here – and one of them
would have recognised me anyway! There were a fair
few people up here today, and I counted out 3 couples, 2
lots of 4 and 1 lot of five – all with big grins generally.
Suitable refreshed we were off again and the start of the
pinnacles loomed ahead. As we climbed up and over and down,
I was concentrating a good deal, so I didn’t really notice
the height gained and lost. Occasionally I looked behind for
a peek and was quite impressed by the scenery, but generally
I was too intent on keeping a firm grip on mother earth. It
was cold as well; with the mist closing in and out I found
that gloves were needed as the hands went quickly numb, but
personally I preferred the feel of skin on rock, and to know
I have a good grip – definitely more reassuring – a
recurring theme it seems. I found I handled
most of the early pinnacles well and there were only a
couple of spots that were awkward – one of them I had to
drop off my perch about 4-5ft, as there were no holds for my
feet – smoothed by many rumps going the same way. But the
landing was on a level surface and there wasn’t any real
threat of catapulting over the edge, unless you’re unlucky
Alf from the Fast Show ....oh bugger. The next awkward pitch
had me using my knees to shuffle up, as I can’t get my leg
over like I used too – story of my life really! But it all
counts – hands, knees, elbows, whatever it takes, and some
of the footholds were a tad tiny, so you had to have a good
grip before committing to press on upwards with the feet. I
guess that was the reason my arms and shoulders were so sore
the next day – I used a lot of muscle I hadn’t used for some
time up here. All I could see was
one rope disappearing, and Neil feeding his out for John.
They say anticipation is all and I suppose that is true. The
mist blew over the edge clearing the way ahead momentarily,
so I just waited and watched as the ropey 4 made it down and
up and over the next pinnacle. When it came to my turn I was
OK and made it down to the small path in between pinnacles.
I watched monkey man leap up the pinnacle without a second
thought, so I did the same up the left hand side and before
I knew it, that was that. All that remained was the haul up
to Stob Coire Leith for another food stop, passing by the
ropey 4 on the way. High above Glencoe
village and the Pap of Glencoe to the right Glencoe below and a
steep descent to come It was here that
John produced a masterstroke in the form of a Topic bar –
never has chocolate tasted so good since the last time I ate
some. The ridge widened out with not much rise and fall
along to the last peak of the day at Sgorr nam Fiannaidh.
The summit shelter was busy with happy ridge walkers and we
passed by to continue the walk along rubble strewn ground,
an easy stroll with the clouds parting ahead and behind us –
enough to get a glimpse of the Pap of Glencoe and the
village far, far below us. I posed for a shot with a big
stupid grin on my face, and was very happy with myself and
the company I had kept along the Aonach Eagach. the Claigach Gully -
very rubbly and full of loose scree I wasn’t sure about
the Clachaig Gully descent as it is full of loose scree with
some steep drops, but Mike told me afterwards that it was
fine. Neil told us it was ok a little further around, and
said it was an extra 1 ½ hrs to go via the Pap of Glencoe.
Whichever way you choose to come down off here it is very
steep and is a hard test on the thigh muscles, knees and
shins. But down we went with Neil and Garry leading the way,
followed by self and John. Another couple tagged along so we
became six, but by now I was feeling the exertions of
yesterday catch up with me and my legs started to wilt. John
hurtled past me at one stage, going down the slope on his
bum, which is ok as long as you don’t hit a boulder, and is
certainly quicker. His pants were a dirty streaked brown at
the back by the time we got down, and I’m not entirely
convinced it was all down to the slide. I seemed to take
forever going down and the ground was still very steep. We
didn’t have a path down, just a romp through the heather,
reeds, grass and bracken. But eventually we did make easier
ground, with me bringing up the rear of a ragged line. The
route cut through bracken towards a small copse of pine
trees, before dropping down to the road,
never has tarmac been so welcome, and as I reached
terra firma I finally caught up with the others, striding
purposefully on to the Clachaig Inn. We burst through the
doors of the boot bar and made a dash for the bar, and joy
of joys, never has a pint tasted so good – well actually
that’s not true, my first pint of Guiness in Ireland has to
be the best pint I ever tasted, apart from the one I had
when my first daughter was born. Funny how you remember
events isn’t it? Eventually we had a lift back to the start
of the walk to pick up the cars. I stood by mine for a
little bit to look back up to the Aonach Eagach, the best
ridge I’ve ever done. Thanks especially to Neil, Garry and
John for your company – Scotland – it’s brilliant for
walking.
