Mallorca 2009
Date: 29th September
Weather: Looking threatening, but pleasant sunshine
Route: From Soller to Deia along the GR221 - 8.6 miles by Satmap gps
Map: Mallorca Tramuntana Central 1:25000
We caught the bus to Soller – after studying the timetable
this time – and had a leisurely drive along the coast. The
road is very tortuous and quite narrow in places so we
didn’t get out of second gear for a lot of the journey. But
it only took ½ hr and we were soon in Soller town, stopping
off at the supermarket to get some juice for today’s walk.
It was a little noisy walking down the main road to get to
the GR221 path, but we had a good look at some Black
Vultures circling overhead, and a Red Kite flying even
higher in the sky. There were big black clouds over the
higher mountains at the back of Soller but although looking
very threatening we didn’t get very wet, just a few spots.
A very gloomy start – they like their bonfires over here
Plenty of orange trees and almonds around
A look back to Soller town – spot the big church
The initial route out of Soller wound its way through some
agricultural land in a circuitous route, passing some
interesting small holdings, including a cage full of pigeons
– hmmm what’s on the menu tonight then. The GR221 finally
starts up on the old mule track about ½ way to Port Soller,
and gently zigzags up the hillside. The way is paved with
limestone blocks, cobbles, which are worn smooth in places.
There are good views back to Soller, nestled beneath huge
hills, and the town centre church stands proud of its
surrounding buildings – with a prominent and distinctive
facade. The signs show a time to walk to Deia in 2hr 45
mins, but that would be a head down walk with a following
wind and no stops to take in the views – we did meet a few
people like that with a bus to catch, but most ambled along.
Typical Olive grove scenery
Looking down on Port Soller
A terrace full of Crocus and an ancient olive tree
Once up on the higher ground the path winds through olive
groves, and passes the path that leads down to the refugi de
muletta and the lighthouse. The walk had a very different
feel to the coastal walk, being very relaxing and easy
walking along old farm tracks. Eventually the route leaves
the tracks to join the road for a short section and turned
right opposite a bar/hotel at the Son Bleda. Now I’m a great
believer in taking refreshment when the opportunity arises,
so we walked into a deserted bar that has a wonderful
terrace with fantastic views. I had a nice chilled San
Miguel with a slice of raspberry tart – absolutely delicious
to go with the views out over Soller and the hills beyond.
Easy walking along wide tracks
Cala Deia in the distance
Probably my favourite view of the trip – from the terrace at
Son Bleda
Once refreshed we set off across the road up a narrow lane
leading up to a dilapidated church. The ivy that was
overhanging the walls was alive with honey bees and the
sound they made was a huge buzz – there must have been a few
hives worth of bees here. Around the corner from the church
was Son Mico Can Pronom a rural guest house where you can
stop for a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice – so we
did. The views are delicious and far reaching.
Puig l’Ofre emerges from the mist
The old house at Son Mico Can Pronom
Looking back down on the old church with Soller in the
distance
The route is through the gate
The remainder of the path meandered up and down through
wooded areas in dappled sunshine – pleasant enough but not
very inspiring for me. We met plenty of Germans out walking
today and all seemed happy to be out – most said hello, even
the head down much catch the bus variety. We came out on the
main road again and the route descended below Deia, through
lovely olive groves once more. From this aspect I could
appreciate how fertile the valley was, and how it takes the
full sun. The view up to the church in Deia is different
again, perched up on the top of a conical hill, but
surrounded by the backdrop of the limestone cliffs.
Much of the path is along a path like this
The conical hill ahead with the church on top in Deia
Deia from the Sa Pedrossa path
Our route came down to the gorge with the torrent major,
passing over some interesting limestone features – a karst
landscape in miniature, with water worn mini water channels
very sharp to the touch. We ignored the GR221 path here and
crossed over the river to walk up the dark side of the town
on the Sa Pedrossa path. There were a lot of small holdings
here, and a lovely spot of sunshine, the old church glowing
in the afternoon sun. That was the end of a pleasurable 5 hr
walk, and surprisingly only a few raindrops to count. As we
walked back through the town I stopped at what I thought was
a bank machine, and nearly ended up with £100 of lotto
tickets – oops.